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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I took my bike to the scale the other day and she came in at a rotund 28.8 lbs. She's a 2009 Gary Fisher Hifi Deluxe that is basically bone stock.

This is pretty much the ride +/- a few basic parts:



Here is a list of the current build, the best that I could estimate:



My goal is to shave 15 lbs off of the total package for around $1,000.

This will not include my food bill or anything. My weight will be "free" so to speak :D
I'm currently 183 lbs or so and so the goal is to take 15 lbs total off of the bike and me, the total package, together. I'm 39 and probably around 13% BF, been a lazy winter.

I would list my specs in a JPG file, but safe to say that I probably won't ever look anything like this :thumbsup:



I'm can eaily drop 10lbs myself, so I really need to cut around 5 off the sled. I ride mostly single/double track around Los Angeles which is a mix of rocky/sandy trails. I'm hoping to race this June so no urgent rush, less than 1 lb a week for me and for the bike...

That's what I'm asking for help with.

I am willing to shell out $1,000 to make it all happen. If it's easy to get there for less, great! Any bike part is fair game. Body parts are less likely to be augmented and impossible to stay under $1,000 :nono:

Thoughts? Advice?

TIA

String
 

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30-ton War Machine
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bulimia, that should take care of it and, it is free! I could see you dropping 2-3lbs off your bike, maybe... Look at wheels/tires first and then brakes and crankset. Those are going to be your biggest gains=loss in weight.
 

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Replace your wheels with something from Stan's and put some lighter weight tires on there.

Then focus on dropping body fat. This will be the most effective means by far.
 

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The first thought that come's to me is that you are going to have to lose 12-13 lbs off yourself to hit your 15 pound loss for under $1000. To lose 5 pounds off your bike would cost you around $3000- $4000.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, 12 lbs for me it is.

Any specific recommendations for how to toss 3'ish lbs from the bike? Which specific wheels from Stan's do you speak of? Tires? :confused:

The stripper/bulimia thing sounds scary, don't think it's for me :nono:

Feel free to pimp your favorite gear, happy to have specifics that you have come to like.
 

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I agree with the weight savings everyone else
recommends, plus if the grips are really 250 grams
I would ditch them for something lighter. With new
grips and a set of light carbon bars you would lose
a lot of weight and still have comfort.

Best, John
 

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bi-winning
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string_wise said:
Which specific wheels from Stan's do you speak of? Tires? :confused:
The Stans Crest wheelset is 1420g, and rated for riders up to 190 lbs.

The Schwalbe Rocket Ron is 435g in a 2.1 size. I can't say for sure how well suited it is to your riding conditions though.

Plus, the tires are tubeless ready, so you can lose the tubes and save even more weight (offset slightly by weight of valve stem / Stans sealant).
 

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Lighter tires (~570g each), and $400 NoTubes wheelset, and lighter tubes or sealant will cut over 2 lbs. from your weight, assuming your posted weights are accurate.

With the remaining money, I'd buy a new crankset, a carbon handlebar, and a set of eggbeaters. But that's just me.
 

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an XT 11-32 cassette would drop some too and not cost a ton. If you are getting wheels (which you should), might as well drop more in that area.

Stem, bars, grips for sure (I actually have a Race Face Next SL carbon riser bar for sale on pinkbike under the same username).

if you don't play around with the height of your seat you could get a non QR seat post clamp and save a decent amount for a very small amount of $$. Even a lightweight QR is still fairly cheap and would be a lot less than 90gr

don't be afraid to look around at used stuff, this will save you a ton of $$ to help you meet your goal

+1 on the Crest wheels and Rocket Rons, those were my choice for my Epic :thumbsup:
 

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Hope Hoops wheelset from Wiggle, with Crest rims, and some <550g tires. (~ $400)
then, maybe..
E.13/Hive crankset can be found for not much. Get an alloy granny, move middle ring and add BBG bashguard. (~ $200)
XT cassette. (under $100)
Formula RX brakes with Formula R1 disks. (~ $300) (that's mostly because I hate Avid. :) )

200g for headset in your spreadsheet sounds a bit much.
 

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Here's my advice based on owning two bikes with a lot of similar parts to yours that I have tried to lighten up:

Stan's wheels (model depends on your weight and riding style) - $400-450
Light weight tires - $100-120
Thomson Elite or Masterpiece seatpost - $80 or $120
Foam grips, or at the very least normal lock ons. - $10
XT 11-34 cassette - $70
Carbon handlebars - $100-150
Seat - Anywhere from $30-200

All that stuff above will cost you between 900 and 1100 and I bet you'll drop 3+ lbs. The wheels and tires alone will probably be 2 lbs of weight loss.

Another thing to consider is switching to Eggbeaters. I understand pedals are a personal preference, and a lot of people strongly dislike Crank Brothers, but if you aren't in that situation, you can save almost 100g by switching to Eggbeaters. A similar thing is the Ergon grips. Personally I have never felt like I needed fancy grips like that, and you can get good foam grips that weigh <20g, that's half a pound of weight loss from grips alone. The seat you should get fitted for at a bike shop. I dropped over 100g with my WTB Silverado saddle. And the seatpost, judging from the two Bontrager seatposts that I have had, you can lose anywhere from 100-200g with a Thomson. Another thing to consider is going 1x9, that's what I did on my Fuel and dropped almost a pound, and I always hated shifting the front derailleur, I couldn't be happier with the switch.
 

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string_wise said:
Here is a list of the current build, the best that I could estimate:



I am willing to shell out $1,000 to make it all happen. If it's easy to get there for less, great! Any bike part is fair game.
Good goal to shed some body weight.

Just looking at the list, some places worth looking:

Step 1: Swap out the X.7 triggers for X.7 SRAM 9 speed twisters ($35 - $50) and use trimmed foam grips. You can get Bontrager foam grips for $8 or $9 and the trimmed pair to fit with the twist grips will weigh about 12 - 14g. That's 238g saved from the grips and the twisters weigh about 198g, so you save another 65g over the trigger shifters.

Step 1 savings = 303g or .66 lbs and costs $45 - $60

Step 2: Swap out to a lighter cassette. The XT 11-32 on the bike weighs 330g. XTR gets you down to 224g for $169 or so. Or if you really want to go WW - you could raid old board favorite Nino and buy a Ti 11-32 cassette that weighs 175g for Euro 150 ($205). To save a little cash, the XTR will suffice.

Step 2 savings = 106g or .23 lbs and costs $169 (for the XTR)

Step 3: Swap those tires out. 675 and 700g together could be swapped out for Maxxis Aspen front and rear the 120 tpi foldable version which weighs 475g each and will cost $55 each.

Step 3 savings = 425g or .93 lbs and costs $110

Step 4: Swap out those Shimano 540 pedals for the Xpedo M-Force Ti spd pedals which weigh 210g. Can be had on eBay for $129 - $145 or whatever you win the auction price or are willing to pay.

Step 4 savings = 142g or .31 lbs and costs $129 - $145 (depending on auction)

Step 5: You are best guessing on the wheel weight, but I'll use your guesstimate of 2000g. Swap out to NoTubes Crest/ZTR 26" wheelset for $495 and a weight of 1420g.

Step 5 savings = 580g or 1.27 lbs and costs $495 (guesstimate weight savings, but probably close to a pound or more)

Step 6: Dump the tubes now that you have the Crest wheels with the yellow tape and valves along with the Aspens that work tubeless. Add Stans Sealant (2 ounces in each tire and buy a jug of sealant (a Quart for $24.95). 4 ounces of sealant will weigh 113g compared to your tubes at 400g.

Step 6 savings = 287g or .63 lbs and costs $24.95

That brings us to $972.95 to cut 1,843g or 4.06 lbs

Obviously, if you spend more, more weight could be shed (cranks/rings, brakes, saddle, handlebar, skewers, stem, derailleurs) but at that point you should have just started from a frame and built from the ground up.

But it looks like your budget of $1K could cut 4 - 5 pounds off the bike and if you work on your physique to trim the remaining 10-11 pounds you'll be a faster rider up the hills and well worth the effort of losing the weight.

Best of luck and kudos on the goals.

BB
 

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If you want to feel a performance difference, you should definitely start with rotational mass. Depending on your weight you can go with Stan's Crest as other have suggested, a nice low weight tire ie Racing Ralph, and then change out your rotors. Those three changing will give you the most bang for the buck.
 

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re: BB's reply.

Wow, that's about the most complete and helpful post I've read for a newbie question on this board in quite a while. String_wise, you owe bruce a beer, in my opinion.

I'll add my 2 cents ... which will go against the grain in the WW board ... I could never get used to lighter smaller tires. (poor handling skills on my part) And they are a "wear item". So I wouldn't replace them right away, but would wait till they wear out. Same for the cassette. Unless you don't ride that much, the cassette will have to go in a few seasons ... is it really ready for the trash bin? Now, if you can resell it on ebay or craigslist, that changes the dynamic, but you get my point. I am a penny pincher as much as a weight weenie ... so my advice is probably not that relevant, considering you already had a budget.

Definitely replace the wheelset like everyone suggests (and some of the other parts as you like) - your bike will ride better for it - then train with the slightly heavy "wear" items until they wear out ... when you upgrade, you'll say "holy crap, i'm super fast now!"
 
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