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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Saturday 9:30pm. It's snowing. Home alone b/c the wife's at a party for the night. A stack of good CD's and a case a good beer. A Highline frame and a bunch of parts.

I guess it's time I got down to it and started.





 

· Wicketed
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That is going to be bloody lovely. Just make sure you don't drink too much, get over excited, and then fall asleep with it in your arms before the wife gets back.
 

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Jayem said:
Isn't that scarring/rubbing on the steerer tube?
Sir, I hope you know that my time on mtbr is not all fun and games. I'm busy fighting crime on these forums and have little to no time to view such obvious things as steer tube scuffing and other evidence contrary to my original assumption.

Now if you please, I have to go to the EW forum and see if my assistance is needed.
 

· Elitest thrill junkie
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Jerk_Chicken said:
Is that a NOS 07 66?
Isn't that scarring/rubbing on the steerer tube?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jerk_Chicken said:
Is that a NOS 07 66?
I wish it was JC, it's actually El Ching's old one. I think I've actually got a problem with the front. I need to look at it further since it was the last thing I did last night before I went to bed, but I think my hope rotor is buzzing the inside of the bottom post mount. I guess I might have to file a few mm off the post mount.

Wife's got another party tonight to attend, so I'll get back at it this afternoon.
 

· Lay off the Levers
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Yessss....yesss.... ready you are!



Dayamm talk about a fun weekend!
Bike building, beer and no interuptions... Kickarse!

Don't forget to show us your progress...how about a webcam? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
nybike1971 said:
Looking good! Will you be able to try it out before Spring melt?
I should be able to, what's a little mud anyway? :D Like I could let a bike like that sit in my garage until spring anyway! Un-possible.

Didn't get as much work done yesterday as I'd hoped, but making progress. Fork/stem/handlebars are on, as are the cranks and chainguide.

I need to find out exactly how to adjust my Hadley's, b/c there's a tad bit of looseness to both wheels, although I hear it's really easy.

I'm def going to have to file a bit off that lower fork post mount, it's just barely hitting my rotor. Anyone foresee any issues doing this? I'm just talking a few mm on the back end of it, not the entire inside portion.

And I think installing and adjusting the front derailleur is going to be a real PITA. I've got a new Saint 2 ring one, and I'm going to have to find a 5mm allen with a super short head to tighten the bolt up. I'll read Zilla's old front derailleur post at lunch for some info.

I'll try to get a pic posted up tonight, but looking good so far!:thumbsup:
 

· Lay off the Levers
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Are those are Hope 2P rotors? I had them on my 66SL when I was running XTR calipers on my RFX. The rivets came super close and barely had 1mm clearance up front.

I fiddled with them for about 5 mins with my Formula T1 brakes and '06 66SL and decided to bench them for now. You might have more luck as I wasn't considering grinding anything at the time. I'll probably buy the Formula 2P rotors next season if they do them in gold. The one thing I don't like about 2P rotors is the alloy center is very flexy so it's a little harder to true a dinged rotor. With a steel rotor you can use one tool and bend the high spot. With the 2P I find I need 1-2 tools to hold the true parts of the rotor on eah side of the high spot and then bend the part in the middle with a third. (Drumstix 3P tools). While this technique might be needed for a badly bent steel rotor, it's not usually necessary.

For the FDer, I eventually went with the new XT. It seems to fit marginally better than the older one I had. It shifts quite well and I managed to adjust out the chain-drop. I have an XL frame so getting at the mounting bolt was doable with a long ball-end hex wrench. The newer Fder has the mounting bolt in a slightly better place so it was easier.

G'luck! and remember to pull the shock off and check the Fder clearance all the way through full travel.
 

· It's carbon dontcha know.
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rscecil007 said:
And I think installing and adjusting the front derailleur is going to be a real PITA. I've got a new Saint 2 ring one, and I'm going to have to find a 5mm allen with a super short head to tighten the bolt up. I'll read Zilla's old front derailleur post at lunch for some info.

I'll try to get a pic posted up tonight, but looking good so far!:thumbsup:
I tried to use a Saint FD when I built mine up (not the new model though), but the cable rubbed on the rocker. In the end I went with an X.9 which fits no problems. For fitting I took a spare 5mm hex and cut it off so I could fit it in the gap. During fitting I also took the shock off the frame and zip tied the rear compressed to 6" so I could check the FD wasn't going to hit the chainstay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Zilla,

Yes, they are the two piece rotor, but the rivets clear fine, it's actually the inner piece of the rotor that's rubbing. And I should clarify, the wheel spins fine and doesn't hit, but the smallest amount of pressure and it rubs. I can't fit a sheet of paper b/w the rotor and mount, that's how close it actually is. I MIGHT could get away with not doing anything, but I'd feel better if there was a just a hair more clearance.

As for the front derailleur tips from you and 6thE, thank for both, I'll get to that this week and keep those in mind. I've got a few FDs to work with right now. I've got the the Saint I bought for the HL, my buddy has a spare new XT I could use, and I bought a new 2 ring SLX for the RFX, so I could also use the m971 XTR that I'm currently running on the RFX. Surely one of those will work.

And no my name's not Shirley.
 

· It's carbon dontcha know.
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It's the cable rubbing against the rocker you need to watch out for. I tried my M971 off my Sultan and it worked but the shifting wasn't as good as the X.9 with the wider chainline.
 
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