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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. I have a Cygolite Rover II and Ive had it for over a year now and I love it! But theirs one small problem with it that I don't like. Cygolite uses a seoul P4 led and I HATE the color this led emits! :madmax: It has a very blue tint to it. :(

My question is to you guys is what led can i use in my Rover II that has a white color, wont melt my driver when I turn it on, and work with my stock optics???? ( I can change the optics but I have to find which optics work with my Rover II)

I tried to test how many miliamps my light draws on boost but I couldn't get it to turn on after I hocked up my amp meter. :madman:

-Losimaster117
 

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your best bet is to de-solder the leds replace them with either a natural white or warm white leds. If you always run both led's together, just replacing one on the leds with a lower colour temperature one will also soften the light a lot.

For reference in my latest build I run 6500k and 4300k leds together to achieve a warmer light output (ie not yellow but not blue)
 

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losimaster117 said:
Hello. I have a Cygolite Rover II and Ive had it for over a year now and I love it! But theirs one small problem with it that I don't like. Cygolite uses a seoul P4 led and I HATE the color this led emits! :madmax: It has a very blue tint to it. :(

My question is to you guys is what led can i use in my Rover II that has a white color, wont melt my driver when I turn it on, and work with my stock optics???? ( I can change the optics but I have to find which optics work with my Rover II)

I tried to test how many miliamps my light draws on boost but I couldn't get it to turn on after I hocked up my amp meter. :madman:

-Losimaster117
Just to clarify what Brad said, the same LED can be sourced with different tints.
Heres some P4 tint bins, you can see the difference between SYP and SUM is huge.
I thought SXO was a common bin(I haven't had much to do with SSC).
In general the bluer tints give more lumens.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=156772



See here for a comparison of cree tints too
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=630593

Is your light working again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks but I don't want any lower lumens than I all ready have. it only has 255 lumens. I would like to boost it up to 350-450 lumens. The more the better! :D Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes my light works just fine but the thing is that when I plug the battery to my light it turns on by itself.( By default.) When I try to connect up my amp meter I cant trick my light to turn on normally. Thus I cant get a reading on my amp meter. :(
 

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losimaster117 said:
My question is to you guys is what led can i use in my Rover II that has a white color, wont melt my driver when I turn it on, and work with my stock optics???? ( I can change the optics but I have to find which optics work with my Rover II

-Losimaster117
They were probably trying to keep to your original request of stock optics and no request for more lumens. The safe and easy thing is to stick to the P4.

Since you also want more lumens then the P4's need to go. Go with some XPE or XPG leds.
Then measure your current optics and find something of similar size made for the XP series of leds.

Order and assemble.

Driver ought to be fine. Vf will be a little lower than the P4, but change always involves some risk. Consider melting things as part of the DIY experience.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
odtexas said:
They were probably trying to keep to your original request of stock optics and no request for more lumens. The safe and easy thing is to stick to the P4.

Since you also want more lumens then the P4's need to go. Go with some XPE or XPG leds.
Then measure your current optics and find something of similar size made for the XP series of leds.

Order and assemble.

Driver ought to be fine. Vf will be a little lower than the P4, but change always involves some risk. Consider melting things as part of the DIY experience.:D
Thanks a lot! I'm guessing if I get a more efficient led it would put less strain on the driver so I might go with a xpe or a xpg led. I'm very good with a soldering gun. :D Then I'll upgrade the battery from the stock 3300 mAh to one of my rc car 5000 mAh battery :D The question is now what degree lenses should I get... I like the stock lens set up of the Rover II so I'll go with a medium optic. So like a 15 degree lens????? What degree range is considered a medium optic??? :???:
 

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Around 10 to 15 for the xpe and a 5 to 10 degree for the xpg. Either combo ought to give you a mediumish beam. Or any 5 to 10 degree "diffuse" for either the xpg or xpe.

Stack height could be an issue. The pcb/xp could have a lower stack height than the P4.
That can be worked around if it proves to be an issue.
Just FYI.
 

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losimaster117 said:
Thanks a lot! I'm guessing if I get a more efficient led it would put less strain on the driver so I might go with a xpe or a xpg led.
Not necessarily. Depends on the driver design. The lower Vf of an XP-G may allow more current to flow. A headlamp that I replaced a Luxeon 1 with an XP-G in flowed 100mA more current with the XP-G. The Luxeon was driven at 350mA and now the XP-G draws 450 mA. Worked OK though the battery life is shorter on high. The amount of light is so much more though that most of the time I use the lowest setting. Before the change I used high mostly.

losimaster117 said:
Then I'll upgrade the battery from the stock 3300 mAh to one of my rc car 5000 mAh battery
Make sure you stay within the allowable voltage of the light.

losimaster117 said:
The question is now what degree lenses should I get... I like the stock lens set up of the Rover II so I'll go with a medium optic. So like a 15 degree lens????? What degree range is considered a medium optic??? :???:
The XP-G makes a pretty wide beam even with spot optics. Medium optics would be a waste
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Vancbiker said:
Not necessarily. Depends on the driver design. The lower Vf of an XP-G may allow more current to flow. A headlamp that I replaced a Luxeon 1 with an XP-G in flowed 100mA more current with the XP-G. The Luxeon was driven at 350mA and now the XP-G draws 450 mA. Worked OK though the battery life is shorter on high. The amount of light is so much more though that most of the time I use the lowest setting. Before the change I used high mostly.

Make sure you stay within the allowable voltage of the light.

The XP-G makes a pretty wide beam even with spot optics. Medium optics would be a waste
Well I'm going to have the same 4.8v battery just more run time when I make the new battery. Also I didn't know that XP-G leds have a wide beam even with a spot optic. Do you know what K ratings the XP-G led comes in? Is there one that is close to a 6000-5000 k ratting. Like a pure white led???
 
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