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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!

I just bought a used Scott Big Jon from 2016 for €430; the only issue with it is that the rear thru axle misses the QR skewer (bumped €20 off the price for that, couldn't go any lower because the rest is in splendid condition, not a single scratch, and it's already a bargain as it's worth twice the amount).

I attached pictures of the parts where the skewer should be (the spring was still there but I removed that so I wouldn't lose it), the front axle skewer, and the thru axle that I believe it is (available in some webshops but as far as I know not in a webshop within the EU that delivers to the Netherlands, where I live).

How can I remove the thru axle? I guess just take a pair of pliers and take the nut off of the drivetrain side with that? Or is it possible to get a new skewer somewhere and put that on there?
If it's not possible to just get a new skewer, what thru axle should I get? (I know that it's 197x12mm but don't know if there's several types of those. And the cheaper the better, but it should be of good quality.) Or does only the one in the picture I attached work?


Thanks in advance!

Daniel

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· Rippin da fAt
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Need length and diameter to start... Then visit a loco bike shop to see if they can order a replacement for you.
Reach out to Scott for more information since they will be able to give you instruction on how to deal with it.
 

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Here's a replacement:


Edit: The Robert Axle Project Website suggests it's M12 x 229mm length x 1.75 pitch

 

· since 4/10/2009
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Here's a replacement:


Edit: The Robert Axle Project Website suggests it's M12 x 229mm length x 1.75 pitch

these bits right here are the important information to either find an OEM replacement or an aftermarket one that matches the correct specs. For rear thru axles, I feel like the qr levers are pretty much pointless and irrelevant and I tend to prefer the ones that require tools. Front ones aren't far off from that, as well. Only difference there is that I do have one bike rack (out of 4 diff ones I might use) that has a fork mount, and having a QR lever on the front makes it just a touch quicker to load/unload, since I'm not needing to use a separate tool on the front wheel.
 

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these bits right here are the important information to either find an OEM replacement or an aftermarket one that matches the correct specs.
Yup... the Robert Axle Project finder is a nice way to find the specs since they're otherwise rarely published.

I like to give them business since they're so transparent... besides being a really nice product.

...I tend to prefer the ones that require tools.
Agreed! I like the feel of Allen Head thru axles... seems more consistent to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Need length and diameter to start... Then visit a loco bike shop to see if they can order a replacement for you.

Reach out to Scott for more information since they will be able to give you instruction on how to deal with it.
Well yeah, as I said it's 197x12mm.

I reached out to Scott but they said this:

"Please contact you local Scott dealer. It would be very sad if you wreck a good frame by trying it yourself. He will also be able to order the right replacement part for you."

I think that's BS though, I don't know how I would be to wreck the frame by replacing the thru axle...

Here's a replacement:


Edit: The Robert Axle Project Website suggests it's M12 x 229mm length x 1.75 pitch

Ok I thought the axle has to be 12x197 but apparently not. Is every axle that fits 12x197 the same though? (Except for difference between QR and requiring a tool)

And on the Scott the axle goes through the derailleur hanger into a sort of nut. Could I reuse that nut or do I need to get an axle that comes with a nut?

I did find a RockShox Maxle thru axle for 12x197, but that has a 1.5 pitch, and doesn't come with a nut:

these bits right here are the important information to either find an OEM replacement or an aftermarket one that matches the correct specs. For rear thru axles, I feel like the qr levers are pretty much pointless and irrelevant and I tend to prefer the ones that require tools. Front ones aren't far off from that, as well. Only difference there is that I do have one bike rack (out of 4 diff ones I might use) that has a fork mount, and having a QR lever on the front makes it just a touch quicker to load/unload, since I'm not needing to use a separate tool on the front wheel.
I don't need quick release, I just need a good quality axle that will work with the bike, for not too much money. Also see above notes about the thread pitch and the nut.
 

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Ok I thought the axle has to be 12x197 but apparently not. Is every axle that fits 12x197 the same though? (Except for difference between QR and requiring a tool)
Unfortunately, no.

  • Thread pitch can be different.
  • Overall length is different depending on the thickness of the dropouts and the connection on the drive side
  • Shape of the non-drive side can be different, flat, conical, rounded.
 

· since 4/10/2009
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Ok I thought the axle has to be 12x197 but apparently not. Is every axle that fits 12x197 the same though? (Except for difference between QR and requiring a tool)
Look at the Robert Axle Project website. There are a lot of little variations. 12x197 is the spacing of the hub itself, or the spacing between the dropouts on the frame (those two things must match). The axle has to pass through the dropouts AND the hub, so it's always going to be longer. The rest of it is determined by what that axle threads into (thread pitch, length of the threaded portion, etc). On some frames (probably most), the axle threads directly into the frame itself or at least some kind of modular dropout. It's less common for the nut on the end to be a separate piece.

You absolutely can mung things up by trying to install the wrong part. Never underestimate the ability of trying to force the wrong part to mess up the whole bike. Home mechanics have been doing this always, and it's what gives job security to professionals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I looked all over where I can buy the Robert Axle in Europe but can't find it anywhere in the size needed (the LIG607).
Ordering from the official website would probably cost me around €80 after shipping and taxes.

I did find a shop selling Salsa Deadbolt's, 229mm long and 12mm diameter, but they only sell it with a pitch of 1.5.

I also found some shops selling axles that can be used to mount stuff on but I'm in no need for that.

On AliExpress there's a shop (Eastsound Cycling Store) that sells custom-made axles, so you can request the sizes. Although the feedback of the shop is very good, I don't feel like putting an AliExpress part on a bike worth this much. Especially since I can't find anything about them.

Edit: since the axle goes into the nut on the end, couldn't I just get a nut with a 1.5mm thread pitch?
And I did just find a shop in Belgium selling the Robert Axle LIG607 but it's still €70 including shipment. Also that doesn't come with a nut either (or can I just use the same one?)

Edit 2: I found this: Bontrager Switch steekas achterwiel met hendel | Trek Bikes (NL)
Bontrager isn't the best but isn't the worst either, gives me more confidence then some AliExpress seller and it costs just €20 (found a German shop selling it, for €30 including shipment, but my dad works in a bike shop that's also a Trek dealer, so might be able to get it even cheaper through him). The one with 229,5mm length, 12mm diameter and 1.75mm pitch would work right? Same question about the nut goes here.
 

· Thingamejigger
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I looked all over where I can buy the Robert Axle in Europe but can't find it anywhere in the size needed (the LIG607).
I use this shop, but in UK.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I use this shop, but in UK.

The UK isn't in the EU anymore though, so I'd have to pay custom duties and taxes, and shipment is also €17,5. This would come to about €80 as well.
 

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I looked all over where I can buy the Robert Axle in Europe but can't find it anywhere in the size needed (the LIG607).
Ordering from the official website would probably cost me around €80 after shipping and taxes.

Edit: since the axle goes into the nut on the end, couldn't I just get a nut with a 1.5mm thread pitch?
And I did just find a shop in Belgium selling the Robert Axle LIG607 but it's still €70 including shipment. Also that doesn't come with a nut either (or can I just use the same one?)

Edit 2: I found this: Bontrager Switch steekas achterwiel met hendel | Trek Bikes (NL)...
I don't understand how that nut works and doesn't spin while you tighten the thru-axle, but for sure it seems to be a separate piece and seems to be special, so I'd guess you can reuse it and and also guess you won't find a 1.5 mm/thread version...

So, the Bontrager looks like it would work. A quick google search seems to say it's hollow, so probably only a few grams heavier than the RAP.
 

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Usually there's nothing special about thru-axles or quick release axles beyond the correct diameter, length, thread pitch and threaded length. The actual axle is in the wheel hub, the QR axle you're looking for here just clamps the hub's axle into the bike's rear dropouts.

Pretty sure a 12X197x1.75 with 229mm overall length QR axle for the MSC Booty @ €31 like this will work as well.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't understand how that nut works and doesn't spin while you tighten the thru-axle, but for sure it seems to be a separate piece and seems to be special, so I'd guess you can reuse it and and also guess you won't find a 1.5 mm/thread version...

So, the Bontrager looks like it would work. A quick google search seems to say it's hollow, so probably only a few grams heavier than the RAP.
Shimano has a axle nut with 1.5mm thread pitch, apparently RAP is selling them too:

Or there's this one:

I can't find a axle nut with 1.75mm thread pitch anywhere though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Usually there's nothing special about thru-axles or quick release axles beyond the correct diameter, length, thread pitch and threaded length. The actual axle is in the wheel hub, the QR axle you're looking for here just clamps the hub's axle into the bike's rear dropouts.

Pretty sure a 12X197x1.75 with 229mm overall length QR axle for the MSC Booty @ €31 like this will work as well.

Thanks! I didn't find that one yet (although I looked for one at bikeinn)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The nut is held in place in the derailleur hanger with a grub screw. OP should just leave the nut in place.

View attachment 1956196

View attachment 1956197

View attachment 1956198
Thanks again! I didn't know that. The replacement nuts I sent have slots for a grub screw though, right? So couldn't I replace it with those?

I mean, if the current bolt is still fine I think I'll just use that one together with the Bontrager axle (as that's the cheapest one, and I'm probably going to resell in anyway).

If the nut is f'ed though or it's not possible to remove the axle without f'ing it up (I'll probably go to the local bike shop tomorrow to see if they know how to remove it) I'd have to look at other options.
 

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Thanks again! I didn't know that. The replacement nuts I sent have slots for a grub screw though, right? So couldn't I replace it with those?

I mean, if the current bolt is still fine I think I'll just use that one together with the Bontrager axle (as that's the cheapest one, and I'm probably going to resell in anyway).

If the nut is f'ed though or it's not possible to remove the axle without f'ing it up (I'll probably go to the local bike shop tomorrow to see if they know how to remove it) I'd have to look at other options.
The grub screw is removed from the outside. You use a small hex/allen wrench to remove the grub screw. If you can't unscrew the QR axle from the broken side I would think you can remove the grub screw, then unscrew the nut, and your broken axle can just be pulled out.

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If you do this the nut will be too tight to remove by hand - use adjustable pliers with electrical tape on the jaws (to protect the nut, it won't look very good after you clamp it without any protection). The nut is knurled for grip. You may need to hold the QR axle at the broken side to stop it from turning.

Or....just take it to a bike shop.

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Edit: Here is a video of a Big Jon owner showing the rear axle setup.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The grub screw is removed from the outside. You use a small hex/allen wrench to remove the grub screw. If you can't unscrew the QR axle from the broken side I would think you can remove the grub screw, then unscrew the nut, and your broken axle can just be pulled out.

View attachment 1956233

View attachment 1956234

If you do this the nut will be too tight to remove by hand - use adjustable pliers with electrical tape on the jaws (to protect the nut, it won't look very good after you clamp it without any protection). The nut is knurled for grip. You may need to hold the QR axle at the broken side to stop it from turning.

Or....just take it to a bike shop.

View attachment 1956236
Ok yeah that's what I thought (I'll probably still take it to the bike shop though as it's free since my dad works there). Do you think it would be possible to use one of the nuts I sent though? (Just in case)
 
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