Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
1,277 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright,

I've been a DT Swiss fanboi for some time now. I love the idea of the ratchet system for it's simplicity and trail-side serviceability. However, even with 18t ratchets I've been able to skip the teeth. It's never been extreme, but it's happened with multiple sets of ratchets (while singlespeeding also, so I know it's not a chain skipping).

So I've decided that I need to try something different and I'm looking for a hub that I will not skip. I had pretty much decided that I was prepared to pay the $500 for an Onyx classic hub, but I wasn't prepared for the 4-5 week lead time (I know ****'s crazy right now so I get it). I need a 28h hub and I can't seem to find any in stock from other distributors.

So what else is there? I've heard of people skipping Kings but I've also heard they are super durable. I've always steered away from pawl systems since they've seen more prone to skipping in my experience, but honestly the ratchet system isn't exactly giving me a different result.

I see some stuff saying Hadley is good but I can't really find much about how their hubs are actually built. I know they are pawled but I'd like to see what's actually going on...

I've finally found a bike that I'm completely happy with fit-wise, tire-wise, wheel-wise, etc. I just want a hub that works.

I know there will be doubters here saying that I'm not actually skipping the teeth in the DT. Believe me, it's happening...

Thanks for any advice.
 

· This place needs an enema
Joined
·
17,703 Posts
However, even with 18t ratchets I've been able to skip the teeth.
How often is this happening? On more than one hub?

When's the last time you cleaned/relubed the ratchets, and checked torque/tightness on the thru-axle?

If a DT 18t ratchet skips, it's almost always that the ratchets are filthy, or there's not enough torque on the axle holding things together.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19,417 Posts
How often is this happening? On more than one hub?

When's the last time you cleaned/relubed the ratchets, and checked torque/tightness on the thru-axle?

If a DT 18t ratchet skips, it's almost always that the ratchets are filthy, or there's not enough torque on the axle holding things together.
Agree, service your hub properly and it won't skip. I've put several super strong single-speeders on them with zero problems, one of the most reliable hubs out there ime.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,277 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As I think of it, I think it's only happened on this particular 240. Ratchets from brand new to old, varying levels of grease (I've used DT's grease and then eventually moved on to others to try and curb the issue). I've tried spreading the springs out a bit too to try and add some preload.

I would say this seems to happen every 30 or 40 miles but it's hard to peg down. Some rides it doesn't do anything and then out of the blue it'll pop once (never more than that though...).

This particular hub also had an issue with the bearings seating too far inboard and getting tight on the axle so I've shimmed the non-drive side bearing .1mm which has fixed that problem.

Strangely enough I've never had a problem with my fat 350...

This is with a Surly frame that has an axle torque spec of 16Nm. I've used that much torque before but run into bearing issues in the freehub so I was backing that off to 10-12 Nm but I've always torqued with a torque wrench.

FWIW, the skip has never happened under high load. But it is certainly a skip and with the SS setup, I have no idea what else it could be. Pedals jump forward and there's an audible pop. Seems to typically happen when pedalling through a turn. I've assumed it had something to do with side-loading the hub.
 

· Thicc Member
Joined
·
2,252 Posts
Maybe replace the hub with another DT, but avoid EXP. The DT ratchet should be the most reliably engaging, that is why it is copied by Newmen, Syntace, Mavic, etc....

You could also try a White Ind hub. With the steel axle, they're stiffer than the aluminum ones that are in almost every other high end hub.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
445 Posts
Something must be wrong with that hub.

On my bikes I've had several cheap hubs skipping, but I've also had cheap hubs that never skipped, like my current Shimano FH-MT510-B. I also have more expensive hubs that have zero issues, like a Mavic id360 hub (almost identical to the DT ratchet system).

I'd check if there's too much grease, and if everything is ok I'd try to replace the ratchets. Maybe they started skipping due to bad lubrication and wore down in a way that made it worse.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
It sounds as if you may be applying pedal pressure at the moment the ratchets are coming together. If this is the case, a pawl style hub will have the same issue. The only thing you can try is to use oil instead of grease to aid in quickening the locking of those ratchets. If this helps, but still skips more than you’d like, time to consider a sprag clutch like the onyx.
 

· Elitest thrill junkie
Joined
·
41,077 Posts
CK, the ratcheting mechanism basically locks in two dimensions when pedaling, vs. DT one dimension. It's far stronger and better suited for high torque situations. I have a buddy here that's stripped out the Onyx, he's built like a linebacker.

I too have stripped a DT. It was a while back, but the frequency of me doing that is obviously extremely low, so I'm not too worried. It's a great mechanism because it's simple and light, but CK is a better mechanism for torque and durability.
 

· CEO Product Failure
Joined
·
2,409 Posts
In theory, its very rare for King hubs to skip. The ring drive either works or it doesn't. Not much of an in between unless the ring drive is dirty and needs service.

In full disclosure, I ride King hubs exclusively. Oldest set is from '97 (disco techs) & still in use. I have 7 other sets on various bikes as well. My only complaint is King doesn't offer a fatbike hub.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,804 Posts
In theory, its very rare for King hubs to skip. The ring drive either works or it doesn't. Not much of an in between unless the ring drive is dirty and needs service.

In full disclosure, I ride King hubs exclusively. Oldest set is from '97 (disco techs) & still in use. I have 7 other sets on various bikes as well. My only complaint is King doesn't offer a fatbike hub.
Back in my trials days, the crew ran either DT Hugis or CK. The shimano clutches if that time grenaded almost instantly. Even Hugi an CKs eventually failed under the most extreme ruders, but they held up best.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
998 Posts
This particular hub also had an issue with the bearings seating too far inboard and getting tight on the axle so I've shimmed the non-drive side bearing .1mm which has fixed that problem.

Strangely enough I've never had a problem with my fat 350...

This is with a Surly frame that has an axle torque spec of 16Nm. I've used that much torque before but run into bearing issues in the freehub so I was backing that off to 10-12 Nm but I've always torqued with a torque wrench.

FWIW, the skip has never happened under high load. But it is certainly a skip and with the SS setup, I have no idea what else it could be. Pedals jump forward and there's an audible pop. Seems to typically happen when pedalling through a turn. I've assumed it had something to do with side-loading the hub.
I think you've found the issue. I'd say from that, there's a spacing/alignment issue somewhere. Axle torque, from finger tight upwards should not make any difference, there's likely a dimensional error in the bearing spacers, or seats they press up against, just enough to upset the ratchet. Or perhaps some sort axial misalignment somewhere. The fact that you had to shim d some bearings to get it to work definitely points in this direction
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top