I'm looking to buy some Sun Rynho lights and hope bulb disk hubs, I have found that it might be cheaper that way. However I need a good wheel builder preferably in East Mesa. Ive never built a wheel myself and dont want to attempt it. Alos what spokes should I get? I am a Clyds, 5'10 235 lbs.. Thanks....
I Need a Good Wheel Builder
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520 Posts
clarkgriswald
I recommend Rage, but don't take mail order parts to'em. Go in and tell them what type of riding you intend to do and they will recommend a suitable wheelset. I've been running the set they built for me three years. The only maintenace has been to check spoke tension once a year. Been an awesome, durable wheelset.Crusher said:
Go have "Fish" build them at cactus. He has been building wheels longer than I have been alive, Plus they will give you a good deal over there. I weigh 210lbs and have had no trouble either using double butted 14/15 DT comp spokes or straight gauge, and I do have a tendency to beat on stuff. Alpine spokes are nice but they are a paini in the ass to build, and expensive. Also maybe look in to another rim choice. Rhyno lites are nice for the $$$ but if you want something a lot tougher try a mavic hoop. They are a little more expensive but they will save you a lot of money and time down the road.
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6,356 Posts
recommendations
Dave's speed dream wheels:
800) 275-5031
www.speeddream.com
Chris Seidler (bike doctor)
602-310-1308
602-863-7790
both these guys have about 20 yrs experience doing wheels.
Good luck.
Dave's speed dream wheels:
800) 275-5031
www.speeddream.com
Chris Seidler (bike doctor)
602-310-1308
602-863-7790
both these guys have about 20 yrs experience doing wheels.
Good luck.
Don't use Alpine IIIs!!!!
For your weight you may need a strong wheel, but those spokes are not good for anything other than resisting rocksbeing thrown directly at them. To build a strong wheel you need:
1. A good, strong rim.
2. Enough spokes (32 or 36 if you really plan to beat them).
3. Double butted spokes that are THINNER in the middle, NOT THICKER.
4. A good build with balanced and high spoke tension.
If you don't believe that thinner spokes make for stronger wheels, read Jobst Brandt's book on wheel building. Some people don't believe it even after reading it, but they just don't understand the concept of a pre-stressed structure.
The only reasons to use straight gauge spokes for wheels are
1. Cost (they are cheaper).
2. They build easier since they resist twisting more, but a good wheel builder will have not problem (but not necessarily an amateur wheel builder).
The Alpines are all about marketing, not science.
For your weight you may need a strong wheel, but those spokes are not good for anything other than resisting rocksbeing thrown directly at them. To build a strong wheel you need:
1. A good, strong rim.
2. Enough spokes (32 or 36 if you really plan to beat them).
3. Double butted spokes that are THINNER in the middle, NOT THICKER.
4. A good build with balanced and high spoke tension.
If you don't believe that thinner spokes make for stronger wheels, read Jobst Brandt's book on wheel building. Some people don't believe it even after reading it, but they just don't understand the concept of a pre-stressed structure.
The only reasons to use straight gauge spokes for wheels are
1. Cost (they are cheaper).
2. They build easier since they resist twisting more, but a good wheel builder will have not problem (but not necessarily an amateur wheel builder).
The Alpines are all about marketing, not science.
Alpines fit through most hubs, and if they don't only a slight reaming is necessary (small circular file will work fine). I've used alpines with white industries, shimano, and marzocchi (formula) hubs with no problems. They really aren't that much more expensive, especially when you consider the full spectrum of spokes, alpines, revolutions, competitions, super-comps, champions, titanium...etc...funtank said:
In any case, if you want strength and durability, they are the way to go.
We are just talking about spokes no reason for name calling. I have worked in shops for 10 years, and I have raced downhill for at least ten years. So I have built, repaired, destroyed, a lot of wheels. Alpine spokes are a pain in the ass like I said, you said yourself the hubs need a little rigging so the spokes will work. Why not just use convential spokes? If you like Alpine spokes that is great but it does not mean everyone has too like them. Relax a little their JM no reason to take everything so personal.
Ok, sorry for the name calling, but you had some blatently wrong statements there.funtank said:
You said that spokes that are thinner in the middle are good. Alpine IIIs are thinner in the middle. A crappy build with alpine IIIs will be a crappy wheel. A good build with Alpine IIIs will be a stronger build compared to the same wheel without alpine IIIs.
What I said was that with every hub that i'd laced up with alpine IIIs, there was no problem. I didn't have to do any "rigging".
Alpine IIIs are "conventional" spokes, for "unconveitional" guys that may be clydes, or serious thrashers.
And lastly, I am not talking about what someone "likes" here, I am talking about the strength of the spokes, and there is no argument on this. If thinks he can get away with "normal" build, then great, but by the sounding of his post, it sounded like he wanted a wheel that was somewhat overbuilt, not just a run-of-the mill one.
BTW, Alpine IIIs are tripple butted, but your statement was completely wrong. The middles are thinner than both of the ends. There are 3 diameters on the spoke (hence the "III" name). The fattest is at the elbow, the thinnest is in the middle, and at the nipple it grows to an intermediary size between the two. It is most definitely "thinnest" in the middle. They kind of look like oversize revolution spokes at first. The reason I like DTs is due to their "smooth" taper or butting between sections, as compared to wheelsmiths.
Well, thanks for all the help, my intention wasnt to start any arguments. I am looking for a wheel that can be thrashed, so an over built wheel wouldnt hurt. I'm rough on aquipment and I'm not lite. However I'm not one to take 3' or more drops, just a thrashing trail rider... If the Alpines are much more in cost, I will do without them. I will probably go with double butted and ones that are avaivable if I do happen to break a spoke. Once again, Thanks all.
Joined
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452 Posts
Second the Fish
Fish built be a realy nice wheel for my 215 (bare
) lbs a$$. No retrueing necessary even with a used rim. Not even a slight wobble, after all my poor line choice, bashing, unskilled riding.
Fish built be a realy nice wheel for my 215 (bare
) lbs a$$. No retrueing necessary even with a used rim. Not even a slight wobble, after all my poor line choice, bashing, unskilled riding.
Joined
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1,004 Posts
Everybody should just settle down....
And stop arguing over who has read more tech specs and built/destroyed/rebuilt/redestroyed more wheels....
Jesus the guy only wanted a few #'s of places to call to go for help with getting a wheel built, not a Barnett's Online class from Arizona's finest mountain bikers....
Try DNA Cycles in East Mesa, NEC McKellips & Power, ask for Don. Very reasonably priced, does great work.
And stop arguing over who has read more tech specs and built/destroyed/rebuilt/redestroyed more wheels....
Jesus the guy only wanted a few #'s of places to call to go for help with getting a wheel built, not a Barnett's Online class from Arizona's finest mountain bikers....
Try DNA Cycles in East Mesa, NEC McKellips & Power, ask for Don. Very reasonably priced, does great work.
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