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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
18 lbs wheels w/tires on my 2011 Pugs. I'm not sure I can stand it. I'm 160 lbs and mostly ride snow.

Anyhow I looked at the Flat top 80s drilled and the Rolling Darryls 80'sdrilled. I figure a little wider would help with floatation. I'm looking for the weight of the rim strip to see if I would still save enough weight to justify $350 for a pair of rims. Also is there any issue with the exposer with the drilled rims?


any other suggestions that wont break the bank?

Thanks for your time
Steve
 

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When ever you get into trimming weight on a bike you should first strongly consider adding to your safe cracking skills. If saving weight on your machine is your focus there are ways and people and corporations who will with vested ($) interests help you attempt to achieve your goal since it will help them acheive theirs ($).

18 Lbs of wheels and you are looking at saving by eliminating rim strip??? I don't even care about weight and my fully assembled front and rear wheels total to just under 10#.
 

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Just unweight them then. ;)

Seriously though, I have put about 175 miles on my Pugs since I got it two weeks ago, and as I was riding today I contemplated the weight of it. I changed the stem and post to Thompson Elites, added a riser bar, and switched to thumbies and 2 rings up front. I may have save 150 grams or so, but I did it so it matched my set up preference. I think the weight is a good thing, because now my race bike feels so much lighter and faster without having to do anything to it. If a light fat bike is your goal, it would be cheaper to build one from parts instead of buying a new one and trying to shave weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
WMODAVIS

A little clarification for you. I have Large Marges on there now and I was looking at these other rims with holes in em which would save about 250 grams a wheel. I saw on the Surly web sight what appeared to be a rim strip made to protect the tube when using these type of rims. The rim strip looks heavy and if it weights say 150g then it probably isn't worth the time and money to rebiuld the wheels. I will say that wheels are a pet peeve of mine.

JAGI410

Are those tubes reliable? I do a lot of riding on my own and out a ways. If they are, it sounds like a good idea.

Also, will going from a 65mm rim to a 80mm rim help with floatation?

Thanks for the replies

S
 

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I've had really good luck running WBT 2.5 tubes for the last 2.5 years, summer and winter in AK. The 1 flat that I had was self-inflicted. From what I've been told you can no longer get the WTB tubes but the Q-tube is a good replacement. When running under sized tubes I would recommend over inflating them to 30 ish PSI to assure the tube is stretched out and use lots of baby power! The power helps the reduce friction between the tire and tube.
I also started with a stock Pugsley wheel set non drilled 65mm rims, as I recall just swapping tubes was worth about a 1lb savings. I got another pound savings when I built up a custom 100mm wheel set. Ride quality was noticeably improved due the rotating weight and improved handling of the 100mm rims. General trying to save static 100 grams here and there has little reward but rotating weight is huge.
I would not recommend trying to save weight by slicing and dicing a pair is chopper USA rims as I did, the rims are a long term pain in the ass, my 100s will soon be replaced with Surly clown shoes.
The rim strip is something I've see way over thought over the years, just get some light nylon fabric and secure it in place with super light shipping tape, I'd bet it will come in at 50 grams a wheel and it's cheap, this assumes the spokes are proper length and not protruding will past the nipple.
I'm 160 lbs and hard pressed to ever ride to anything less 100mm rims due to the improved flotation.

[/URL][/TD][/TR][TR][TD]From Susitna 100 2010[/TD][/TR][/TABLE][/IMG]
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm going to order some tubes for now. There seems to be 3 tubes. Superlight, regular, and DH. I'm assuming not the superlights?

Rims will probably be in te near future. I have no intention of upgrading any other parts on the bike exept maybe the XT hydros I have laying around.... I do agree that the rotational wieght is were it's at.

I ran into a little sleet on my ride this morning. Winter is comin.

Good fun!
S
 

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I'd try running the "non-holey" Surly rims tubeless. That's lighter and cheaper than running tubes with cutout rims, plus the tires will feel more compliant. Aren't the stock tubes on a Pugsly about 450g each? That's almost 2 pounds of weight savings by getting rid of them.

People talk of the difference b/w 27 TPI tires vs 120 TPI tires, well running tubeless 120 TPI tires should be the ultimate in traction.

I run tubeless with non-tubeless tires on all my other bikes (XC and downhill) and the difference in traction and weight is definitely noticeable. Plus the bike just feels faster, less bouncy. I've had one flat tire in the past 2 years, when I had to use a backup pair of wheels that weren't tubeless.

I'll be converting my Pugsly to tubeless with the stock Large Marge rims once I can get my hands on some of the new Kevlar Nate tires.
 

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you sparked my curiousity...

In building (dammit! when will the powdercoater be finished?!?!) my pugs, I didn't worry about weight. I selected my components based on what would work for me.

that said, now I wanted to know what my wheels weighted...

BFL (steel bead)
Surly toob
Surly rim strip
Surly Rolling Darryl (drilled)
DT Competitions 32 spokes (263)
DT alloy nipples (32)
CK 135 iso hub
Salsa skewer
Avid 185 rotor
(no cassette)

3.69kg or ~8.1lbs per wheel.

Posted more as an FYI than anything else.

Plenty of places to shed weight on these wheels (kelvar, inner tube, rim strip, hub, spokes rotor, skewer), so this isn't even close to "weight weenie" IMHO.

But shows the difference over the stock wheels for sure.

g
 

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What ^he^ said.

Drilling is free.

I've done several at this point, and with a bit of careful marking and pre punching to ensure even drilling, it's just time consuming, not tough.

Yes, lighter tubes.

Rotational weight is the best weight to remove from any bike, period. Curbside static weight like stems, bars, saddles etc, never gets felt. :thumbsup:

Or, spend up, and get some Speedway Uma's , true tubeless baby, niiiiice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looks like I'm gona get some new rims. Going with the drilled darryls so I will save some weight and while I'm at it, go a little wider. Now the fun part is that I noticed on another thread that there is a limited number of Orange, Green and White rims available AND my LBS has some on hold! My pugs is a 2011 that I had powdercoated orange (can't stand the white). Anyhow, what do ya think? Orange rims with black rim strip, black rims or green rims with orange rim strip?

 

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I'd try running the "non-holey" Surly rims tubeless. That's lighter and cheaper than running tubes with cutout rims, plus the tires will feel more compliant. Aren't the stock tubes on a Pugsly about 450g each? That's almost 2 pounds of weight savings by getting rid of them.

People talk of the difference b/w 27 TPI tires vs 120 TPI tires, well running tubeless 120 TPI tires should be the ultimate in traction.

I run tubeless with non-tubeless tires on all my other bikes (XC and downhill) and the difference in traction and weight is definitely noticeable. Plus the bike just feels faster, less bouncy. I've had one flat tire in the past 2 years, when I had to use a backup pair of wheels that weren't tubeless.

I'll be converting my Pugsly to tubeless with the stock Large Marge rims once I can get my hands on some of the new Kevlar Nate tires.
Can you explain in more detail? Will a Stan's No tubes kit work?

This sounds like a great idea.
 
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