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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
... I pulled the fork off my Pug and drilled six holes and brazed on 6 water bottle bosses. Now I can use the Surly anything cages without resorting to hose clamps. Time to rattle can the fork back to white. (went ahead and filed off the lawyer lips - I hate those things!)
 

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that's funny...

I just received my 18" white pugs framest today and the first thing I did was take the head tube badge off so it can go get soda blasted...

then solder on anything fork mounts (like you but probably 45° aft instead of straight out the sides like you ran yours)... and a third h2o mount under the down tube...and spoke mounts ala LHT.

Originally thought I was going to do couplers, but thinking twice about that now...

then off for a fresh new powdercoat and build it up...

:D

g
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
that's funny...

then solder on anything fork mounts (like you but probably 45° aft instead of straight out the sides like you ran yours)... and a third h2o mount under the down tube...and spoke mounts ala LHT.
I did run them off at about 45°. The pics are a little misleading. I started by hoseclamping the cages on to make sure there was no interference and then I marked, drilled and brazed. Sure is handy having a torch, a little silver and a tub of flux. I'll just rattle can it right now, maybe re-powder coat after this winter and after I decide what else I'll change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are the forks thick enough to just drill and tap?
If you can find anybody nearby with brazing equipment / skills, it is a relatively easy job. I mocked it up by attaching the cages with hose clamps and carefully marking the locations of the mounting points of the cages. A center tap and drill gave me the holes and a little sandpaper to remove the powder coat. My brazing skills are mediocre at best, but this is an easy job. Find a frame builder and offer him some good beer.
 

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and fwiw if you ask around you might find, like I did, that you can go from painted bike to stripped and re-powdercoated for ~$100.

I have a good stripper and good powder coater that I have used a few times now and it is worth it (to me) to go full new powdercoat after such endeavors.

in retrospect, I wish I had removed the canti braze ons from the dummy to do large marges (especially the new LMLites) on it...ah well, that leaves something for the next time I have it re-done.

g
 

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I was wondering about doing something very similar to my BlackSheep Ti only with nut-serts (I assume there are Ti nutserts, right?). A buddy said to just drill and tap the legs...I dunno, maybe shoo-goo and hose-clamps.
 

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There are titanium rivnuts, but they are much more expensive than aluminum. If you go that route, you do have to worry about galvanic corrosion, but since you'll already have a hole drilled, you won't have to worry about extraction. Fork legs usually aren't thick enough to tap.
 

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Spare spoke holders?!?!? What on earth are you people doing with your Pugsleys??? I ride some pretty technical trails with my Pugsley, and have not yet (knock on wood—974 miles so far ridden on it—roughly 500 of those miles were on the really rough rocky jagged escarpment sort of stuff) broken a spoke. What am I not doing wrong?
 

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@LP dunno. never built or ridden the bike yet :D

That said, I really liked that the LHT had a spare spoke holder, and since I had the frame nekkid, I figured why not? It adds little to no weight to the bike and makes i much more self-sufficient if I have problems.

It was also prompted by the fact that my bike uses one spoke length, f-r, l-r, which was also what prompted me to use two rear hubs instead of one ss and one geared hub. One spoke length.

Will I ever need to replace a spoke on the go? Who knows. Will I be glad it is there is if I do? Hell's yes.

Scheming first epic already - maybe even next week... how long does powder take again??? Grrrr......

g
 
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