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Nat said:
I also have a set of fatter tires (Mythos CX I think) that were nice but the problem there was the front cantis couldn't open wide enough to remove the front wheel. I had to deflate/inflate the tire every time I wanted to take the wheel off, and that got to be too much of a nuisance.
Nat, a really simple solution for this problem is to get a cable hanger with a slot in it, or whip out your hacksaw, dremel, whatever floats your boat and cut a slot in your existing one. I'm running bonty XR 1.8s (45c) on a cross check with no problems with this set up.
YO MAMA
 

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a.k.a. MTBMaven
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skidmark said:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1QbM27Nm2YubA

Here's some photos from a two day ride I did this spring on the fixed gear Spot monster crosser. 210 miles in two days, no coasting! :)
Dude you are my hero. That is a rad lightweight touring set up. Were you camping or staying in hotels? I don't see a sleeping pad or poles for a tent. Did you bivy? Who makes that little rack connected to your braze ons?
 

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Has anyone tried out Schwalbe Marathon XRs for long, mixed surface rides? It looks like they should handle gravel well, and dirt as long as its dry and hardish.



700x42 and 29x2.0 shown. Rivendell shows actual widths at 37.6mm and 47.9mm. Not sure what rim.
 

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mtnfiend said:
Dude you are my hero. That is a rad lightweight touring set up. Were you camping or staying in hotels? I don't see a sleeping pad or poles for a tent. Did you bivy? Who makes that little rack connected to your braze ons?
Well, I had a sleeping pad at the start of the ride, but it decided to part ways with me, so I just scraped some leaves together for a makeshift mattress under the bivy sack. No rear rack, just a couple of supports from an old rack meant to keep the missing pad from moving around too much. The rear under seat bag is made by Carousel Designs. Good stuff, used by some of the folks doing the GDR this year.
 

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Ozark Native
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mini monster

mostley a commuter but she wears 38s during cyclecross season. using a ENO hub that lets the rear tire fit. New wheel set is still commin. :thumbsup: oh and she is fixed ( Boone 18t disc mount cog).

Kona Paddy Wagon w/ Project II fork
 

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Sleeveless, thanks for your kind comments.

Our frames are production models (the Peregrine, the red one, would be closest to what you are after will be out early in the new year) and as such I can't offer the sort of customisation you are after. Post-fitting S&S couplers is possible from many builders of course, and I could provide decals if that's what you were after. Being able to get you a frame depends on where you are based though, unfortunately at present I can't sell to North America for insurance reasons....

Regards,

Sam
 

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D_Man said:
Blacksheep Monstercrosser. It's built to fit up to a 29x2.1, but I have yet to ride it with anything bigger than the 700x40s in this pic.
Very nice. I've just got hold of a rohloff myself and had resigned myself to using a flat-ish bar with them. How do you find the practicality of shifting from the drops with your setup, and the remaining space on the drops - does it affect hand position?

Sam
 

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Singular said:
Very nice. I've just got hold of a rohloff myself and had resigned myself to using a flat-ish bar with them. How do you find the practicality of shifting from the drops with your setup, and the remaining space on the drops - does it affect hand position?

Sam
Since that pic was taken, I've turned the shifter around on the Hubub adapter so you could ride with the heel of your hand on the shifter if you wanted and shift that much quicker (if you really wanted to make it easy, you could cut down the bar on one side so that with the hubub adapter inserted it would be no longer than the other side). But overall, I don't find it affects usable hand positions at all. In fact, I'd say it causes less interference than barcons because you don't have a cable running under the bar tape. Now, I can imagine more elegant solutions to shifting a Rohloff with drops (something along these lines, for example), but so far nothing exists on the market. Thorn in the UK also makes a drop bar that splits apart and is sized to allow placement of a twist shifter on the tops, but I've never tried one or seen it in person.
 

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D_Man said:
Now, I can imagine more elegant solutions to shifting a Rohloff with drops (something along these lines, for example), but so far nothing exists on the market.
D-man, try this.

https://www.mittelmeyer.de/html/rennlenker.htm

Great piece of gear which works well, but not as quick to shift as the setup you've got now as you've got to reach up to use it. Like you, I'm running that reversed Rohloff shifter on a cut-down Midge with a HubBub adapter on my BS fat tire rig, but I like the Mittelmeyer on the monstercross Chester a lot.

I've since ditched the duct tape and wrapped it with Rivendell-inspired shellacked hemp twine for a better grip.

BTW, the photo's my entry for the monstercross thread. Also BTW, ink1373, I'm using Schwalbe Marathon Cross, 38mm, they grip pretty well and roll really fast. I used them on Quantico singletrack when I was up there last week and they gripped OK, but wouldn't be my first choice for the woods. Too skinny and too hard, even at 40psi. The Fire Cross 45s are way better. But on the dirt and gravel roads I ride most of the time nere in NC, the Schwalbes are da bomb. Very fast, very tough, very puncture resistant, and very heavy. Like 670g. I don't care about the weight anymore, I just like stuff that lasts.

 

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My homebuilt M Cross

Padre said:
So has there ever been a monster cross built without a 45 degree stem and 40mm of spacers? Meaning...who's built a custom monstercross eliminating the need for the spacer/stem to gain all the reach?
Yep
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/1992211996/" title="Slant Six by deppish60, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2012/1992211996_d7873262e9_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Slant Six" /></a>
No spacers needed
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/1992203354/" title="Midge by deppish60, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2365/1992203354_d738d29caa_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Midge" /></a>
Stem is angled at 17°
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/1992200016/" title="Stem by deppish60, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2326/1992200016_e3b2918357_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Stem" /></a>
Fork w:thumbsup: ill be comming soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Hmmm

Chequama Mama said:
Nat, a really simple solution for this problem is to get a cable hanger with a slot in it, or whip out your hacksaw, dremel, whatever floats your boat and cut a slot in your existing one. I'm running bonty XR 1.8s (45c) on a cross check with no problems with this set up.
YO MAMA
Could you explain this setup a bit more. Maybe some pics?
 

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Chequama Mama said:
Nat, a really simple solution for this problem is to get a cable hanger with a slot in it, or whip out your hacksaw, dremel, whatever floats your boat and cut a slot in your existing one. I'm running bonty XR 1.8s (45c) on a cross check with no problems with this set up.
YO MAMA
Thanks for your suggestion. I can't quite picture what you are describing, but I wouldn't mind seeing it like Sleeveless asked.

On my bike the issue was that the brake pads ran into the fork legs, and the thickness of the pads prevented the tire from squeezing through. The cable was not involved. I eventually bought narrow pads to give more room, but I also had skinnier tires by then so I don't know if the bigger tires will now squeeze through.
 

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I get a lot of customers bike builds emailed to me, but this one is pretty unique. Here is what a Monstercrosser belonging to pro tour rider Dave Zabriskie looks like. Dave is a 2005 TDF yellow jersey wearer and holds the fastest prologue time trial time in the history of Tour de France. It's got a Dura Ace triple crankset and drop bars.
 

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Witty McWitterson
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How's that for a feather in the cap for Niner? A Yellow jersey wearer riding one of thier rigs. Sweet!
 
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