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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to group...hello and thanks for any advice ahead of time. I'm on the prowl for a new bike. I have about $1K budget, wish I had more but not gonna happen. I live in FL and 90% of my riding is pavement. I'm 40 yrs old (6'2/ 220 lbs) and still enjoy riding aggressive and jumping things when I can. Currently have an old Schwinn MTB 21 spd. When I'm out riding distances, I want to go faster but the bike is topped out. So I've been looking at the hybrid/ dual sport/ crossovers because they seem to fit my use. Before I purchase on of those types I had a thought about getting a 29er.

My question... are there any 29ers or 27.5 MTB out there that come standard with 46 or 48 teeth rings? I would like to stay with MTB but want the ability to go faster. Everything I've been looking at is 42 or 44. I have also read a little about the component compatibility issue with such. Need some direction.

Are there any MTB with 46/ 48 setup? If not, is it worth setting one up this way? Should I just go with hybrid? Sorry for a long first post, and thanks for any help.:thumbsup:

Brent
Old Schwinn MTB
 

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You could easily just get a 29er with a 42 teeth setup and purchase a road cassette ($30?) and have the lbs install it. I'd be surprised if they charged you for it. Plenty of nice 29ers can be had for your price range.

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^^^ NOT This. Duh

Since you indicate you like to do a bit of urban light, I'd suggest a 29er over a hybrid. 27.5 might be even better
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
29er....thanks for your reply. Would I need to change the rear cassette as well to make up the drop difference in teeth? I'm guessing I would need a new chain as well?

Clyde...29er would roll better for me. Just looking for more teeth to faster at top gear.
 

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That's what I'm talking about. Sorry for being unclear. All you need is a 29er (or 27.5) and then just change the rear cassette for a road cassette. This will have the effect of changing all of your gearing to higher more road friendly gearing. You will still be able to use the small ring in front (whether it's a 2 gear crank or a 3 gear crank) for some "spirited" riding. But the middle ring in front will be used for road. You shouldn't need to change anything else to have exactly what you're looking for.

If you use a road cassette with the same number of gears as whatever comes on the bike, you shouldn't need a new chain.

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A 26" wheel with a traditional triple crank drivetrain topping out at a 42/11 gear has a maximum cruising speed of around 27 mph, IIRC. OP, how fast do you pedal?

Questioning your technique aside, you can put on different chainrings or a new crank for about $100. Check chainstay clearance first. You could leave your existing cassette (freewheel?) in place, but would probably need a new chain.

If you're going to get a new bike, consider a road bike. Keep the MTB for those once- or twice-a-month off-road days.

Hybrids suck. If you really want something that does both jobs, cyclocross bikes are a much better compromise.
 

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I am running a 29er with 22-32-44 triple crank and an 11-32 9 speed.

With >2.1 tires, my gearing is plenty to keep up on road rides (assuming I can pedal it). And I can still opt for trail. With 32mm road slicks, 44-11 top gear is just a tad short for me.

You might test ride a rigid 29er with that gear combo to see if it works for you.

-F
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Don't know the RPM's, but I pedal faster than my Schwinn wants me to. Technique? Pedal hard, go fast and sweat out previous nights impurities. I don't wear spandex, so a roadie won't work for me. If I can change cassette on MTB to get faster and still keep the look, that's what I'll try to do. If that's not possible, I may look closer at cyclo. Thanks for your reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Fleas. What do you mean by tad short on 44-11? Do feel your legs still have more push than the bike allows? Just curious.
 

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Don't know the RPM's, but I pedal faster than my Schwinn wants me to. Technique? Pedal hard, go fast and sweat out previous nights impurities. I don't wear spandex, so a roadie won't work for me. If I can change cassette on MTB to get faster and still keep the look, that's what I'll try to do. If that's not possible, I may look closer at cyclo. Thanks for your reply.
Is easily possible, should cost an additional $30-$40, and takes about 10 minutes to do.

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islandfvr09, my old Trek 810 26er has 28/38/48 rings with a standard cassette (can't recall the sizes probably standard XC MTB type). I'm very close to you in age, height and weight and I'm pretty fit. Even running on slick tyres I just cannot generate enough horse power to sustain riding on the big ring and little sprocket for very long. certainly any incline has me dropping a gear or two. Maybe I'm more of a weed than I think :D Mostly I just run it in one gear (48/16 or 78GI)

For speed you can't beat a road bike, or a cyclocross bike, but I'm not sure about jumping them! Maybe keep your current steed for jumping and get a road one for speeeeeed :thumbsup:
 

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It's pretty easy to figure out cadence. Just count the number of times your right knee comes up in fifteen seconds and multiply by four. If you're settled into a comfortable rhythm on a flat section of road it should be pretty representative and reasonably safe. If it's lower than 80 (per minute) then fix your technique before you spend money. If your saddle is in the wrong position, pedaling with good technique is harder. 90 rpm is supposed to be a pretty typical selected cadence for someone who pedals with clean technique. Trackies sprint at around 130.

As far as the bike, neither it nor I care if you wear a burka. Though I do find it kind of funny that we as a culture obsess over women's bodies so much, but men feel a need to cover up. As an aside, I don't even own MTB shorts anymore, although I used to ride my road bikes in Carhartts and work boots pretty frequently when I was using them as transportation. It's really just a tool.

What makes you think your Schwinn has a problem with a more rapid cadence?
 

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Currently have an old Schwinn MTB 21 spd. When I'm out riding distances, I want to go faster but the bike is topped out. So I've been looking at the hybrid/ dual sport/ crossovers because they seem to fit my use. Before I purchase on of those types I had a thought about getting a 29er.

My question... are there any 29ers or 27.5 MTB out there that come standard with 46 or 48 teeth rings? I would like to stay with MTB but want the ability to go faster. Everything I've been looking at is 42 or 44. I have also read a little about the component compatibility issue with such. Need some direction.
I don't know what the big ring is on your old Schwinn but I bet it only has a 13t high gear on the cassette. Consider that even with a 48t front ring and a 13t rear, and using 26 inch wheels your high gear will be considerably lower than a 29 inch wheel bike with a 44/11 combo. On the old Schwinn @ 90 rpm you'd be topped out at about 26 mph, a 29'er running a 44/11 would be going 31 mph turning the same cadence. 5 mph at the top end is a lot.

Also, changing a mtb cassette to a road one will get you a tighter range, but not a higher gear.
 

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I don't know what the big ring is on your old Schwinn but I bet it only has a 13t high gear on the cassette. Consider that even with a 48t front ring and a 13t rear, and using 26 inch wheels your high gear will be considerably lower than a 29 inch wheel bike with a 44/11 combo. On the old Schwinn @ 90 rpm you'd be topped out at about 26 mph, a 29'er running a 44/11 would be going 31 mph turning the same cadence. 5 mph at the top end is a lot.

Also, changing a mtb cassette to a road one will get you a tighter range, but not a higher gear.
I stand corrected.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It's pretty easy to figure out cadence. Just count the number of times your right knee comes up in fifteen seconds and multiply by four. If you're settled into a comfortable rhythm on a flat section of road it should be pretty representative and reasonably safe. If it's lower than 80 (per minute) then fix your technique before you spend money. If your saddle is in the wrong position, pedaling with good technique is harder. 90 rpm is supposed to be a pretty typical selected cadence for someone who pedals with clean technique. Trackies sprint at around 130.

I do have computer for bike and recall my rides mostly over 90 RPM's, but up until this point never really concerned me.



As far as the bike, neither it nor I care if you wear a burka. Though I do find it kind of funny that we as a culture obsess over women's bodies so much, but men feel a need to cover up. As an aside, I don't even own MTB shorts anymore, although I used to ride my road bikes in Carhartts and work boots pretty frequently when I was using them as transportation. It's really just a tool.

Yep.

What makes you think your Schwinn has a problem with a more rapid cadence?
Not sure. But I've got it in my mind that I want a new bike and prefer to go MTB style. Through the process of researching bikes, I've learned more about the gearing differences between bikes and simply wanted to know if I could gear MTB lower for faster ride. That's why I've reached out to this forum for help. And I've gotten an answer. Thanks everyone for your help.
 

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Thanks Fleas. What do you mean by tad short on 44-11? Do feel your legs still have more push than the bike allows? Just curious.
On the road, my cadence is right around 100 rpm. I cannot push 44-11 on the flats at 100 rpm, but I spin it out pretty easily (120+ rpm is about my max) on the downhills with the small tires. Having a little higher gear, by using larger tires in my case, keeps me below 120 rpm on all but the biggest hills around me. At those gear inches and cadence I am just over 50 mph (and I don't really need to go any faster).

-F
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
On the road, my cadence is right around 100 rpm. I cannot push 44-11 on the flats at 100 rpm, but I spin it out pretty easily (120+ rpm is about my max) on the downhills with the small tires. Having a little higher gear, by using larger tires in my case, keeps me below 120 rpm on all but the biggest hills around me. At those gear inches and cadence I am just over 50 mph (and I don't really need to go any faster).

-F
Guess I should take a closer look at the old Schwinn gearing first. Probably the 44-11 set up on a 29er would give me what I'm looking for rather than a road cassette.
 

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You could easily just get a 29er with a 42 teeth setup and purchase a road cassette ($30?) and have the lbs install it. I'd be surprised if they charged you for it. Plenty of nice 29ers can be had for your price range.

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How is getting a road cassette going to make any difference. An 11T is about as small a cog that can be fitted onto a typical free hub.
 
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