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Hub replacement question...what would you do?

2K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  pimpbot 
#1 ·
Trying to find the least expensive fix for this problem.

Here is a little background.

I've broken my second freehub on a XT (M525). I'm thinking about replacing the entire hub with the M529. I don't think I can afford a $100+ hub and I have a lot of faith in Shimano.

I love Rhyno Lite rims. Eventually once the current rims die (Sun Equalizers), I plan to replace them with the Rhyno's.

The actual question.......

Option 1.......Purchase new hub and rim (rhyno &m529) for total cost of $180.

Option 2.......Purchase new hub and re-lace old rims for total cost of $100.

Opinions please......what would you do?

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Deore hubs have 5 series part numbers, XT are 7.

I haven't taken apart a lot of the newer shimano hubs but the older style ones all had the same free hub attachment style (at least for the aftermarket hubs). Might be worth looking into to see if you could take a XT free hub and put it on your existing deore hub.
 
#7 ·
I have M525 hubs and broke the freehub in about 10 rides. I replaced it with an XT freehub body, and it has lasted for at least 4 months or so, and no sign of impending trouble.

I am trying to remember what I ordered. I think I did a search on compatible freehub bodies, but the call to Shimano might do it. I think it was a 756?

Wait, here it is.:thumbsup: I searched my e-mail and found it in a Jenson order. Here is the item #.

HU408Z13
756 SHIMANO 9 SPEED HG FREEHUB BODY
Xt M756/M570/M555

Cost was a whopping $30.:thumbsup:
 
#9 ·
ctripi said:
Trying to find the least expensive fix for this problem.

Here is a little background.

I've broken my second freehub on a XT (M525). I'm thinking about replacing the entire hub with the M529. I don't think I can afford a $100+ hub and I have a lot of faith in Shimano.

I love Rhyno Lite rims. Eventually once the current rims die (Sun Equalizers), I plan to replace them with the Rhyno's.

The actual question.......

Option 1.......Purchase new hub and rim (rhyno &m529) for total cost of $180.

Option 2.......Purchase new hub and re-lace old rims for total cost of $100.

Opinions please......what would you do?

Thanks in advance.
I would keep replacing the FH body until the rim dies or you can not repair the hub.

Only then would I get the new wheel.
 
#10 ·
Ask yourself why

you keep breaking freehubs? Size? Riding style? I broke 3 last year, an XT, an XTR, and a Sun. In my case, I had to finally accept that at my size (260 lbs) and my tendency to grind up climbs, I needed a stronger rear hub. No matter what you end up doing for a short term solution, if I were you I'd consider setting aside some cash for something tougher (freeride, or one of the high engagement bling choices) down the road.
 
#11 ·
twowheelsdown2002 said:
Go to Jenson USA. Put in the search box this item # HU408Z13

Then go over and select the item that is $30. XT M756

This one went in perfect in my 525 hubs and is working like a charm.:thumbsup:
Agreed...the M756 FH Body works just fine on the M525 hubs but you have to do some adjustments with the axle spacers as the cup position is slightly different.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...FH/EV-FH-M756-2099A_v1_m56577569830608935.pdf

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...FH/EV-FH-M525-2067A_v1_m56577569830608928.pdf
 
#12 ·
Well......maybe I'll give the XT freehub a try despite shimano's advice.

I definitely need to upgrade rather than keep replacing. 20+ mile rides into the Sierra highcountry make expected failures not much fun.

I keep breaking them because there is an obvious issue with these hubs on the 29er. Plenty written here on MTbr about the problem. Never, ever had problems with deore or XT freehubs on the 26er.
 
#13 ·
mtnbiker72 said:
Agreed...the M756 FH Body works just fine on the M525 hubs but you have to do some adjustments with the axle spacers as the cup position is slightly different.
Yeah, mine worked perfect and I am certain the freehub is stronger. I know in the past I always broke LX freehubs and XT lasted much better.

I honestly don't remember having to fiddle with anything. I took apart the axle on the non-drive side, and pulled out the old freehub and put in the new one and put it all together. I don't remember having to fiddle with the cup positions, but that was some months back that I did it.

It was definately worth $30!!!:thumbsup:
 
#14 · (Edited)
srsly

shiggy said:
I would keep replacing the FH body until the rim dies or you can not repair the hub.

Only then would I get the new wheel.
It's pretty dang easy to replace a freehub body. I can do it in about 15-30 minutes or so. I don't tend to kill gear, but I've only broken one freehub, and it was a super old Shimano LX.

Now re-lacing a rim is a project for me. I can lace, tension and true a rim in about 5 hours flat. I usually do it in the evening after the kids go to bed while watching a DVD movie. Takes me a couple evenings to get it dialed in.

That's a lot of work... at least for me.

*edit*

I'll say it here, tho. Shimano Freehubs are not garbage. Yeah, folks pop them, but folks pop everything, even the blingy stuff. The only exception I know of is Chris King. I've never heard of anybody popping a CK hub. I got like 2000 miles out of my XT rear hub in lots of bad weather rides before I sold the wheelset. It was still humming along just fine.

I'm going to chalk up breaking a Shimano as mostly a fluke. If you have a shop relace a wheel for you, you're looking at around $60-90 to do it, not including the hub. You can buy a lot of freehubs for that. Even if you replace it once every season, it's going to take a few years to come out ahead by replacing the hub altogether. Let's face it, you're more likely to taco the wheel in a crash in that time anyway.
 
#15 ·
Okay...

I guess a freehub isn't dead easy to replace if you have not done it before, but it's not hard.

You need to remove the axle and loose ball bearings. Once you do that, the freehub is held in place with a big hollow 10mm allen bolt. Take out the bolt, pop the freehub off, rag clean the hub, pop the new one on, install the 10mm bolt with some loctite. You might wanna look up the torque, but I would say really frickin snug, but not stand on the wrench snug. I would guess 35 ft/lbs like a crank arm, kinda snug. I suggest to others to use Blue Loctite, but I live dangerously and would go Red because of the bolt size.

Then, ball bearings, axle, grease, cups and cones, adjust, locknuts and you're good to go.
 
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