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What rear hub have you destroyed, OR what hub has refused to die

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K&K
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We ride a Mountain Tandem and are 340 lbs. I have posted a similar, but less elaborate poll on the Mountain Tandem page if you're interested.

I don't want to taint your responses, so I have just erased the explanation of why I've become obsessed with gathering hard data concerning hub failures under heavy-duty demands. It seems the folks on this page seem even harder on hubs then the Mountain tandem crowd, and a good source of data on broken hubs.

I've not included Shimano, as it seems clear that they are not up to demanding loads. I have included all the brands that I have seen mentioned in stories of failures, and those that seem popular. There is a lot of cross-over with our crowd. I'm sure I've missed some. If you have had GOOD luck with some brand (and you've beat the bejeezus out of it) that I haven't included, please post up.
 

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I have never destroyed a hub.

Hubs that I have needed a new freehub body for
-Shimano FH-M525
-Shimano FH-6500 (Ultegra on road/cross bike)
-Mavic FTS-X hub on CrossRoc wheels

Hub I was sure I'd destroy but didn't
-Cheap OEM Quando cup and cone hubset...just wouldn't die through multiple winters in the PNW.

Hubs that have been rock solid
-DT Swiss 240
-DT Swiss Onyx/370
-Shimano FH-M756
-Shimano FH-M665
-Shimano FH-M529
-Novatec D042
-WTB Laserdisc Lite

I don't grind though, more of a spinner
 

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K&K
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks to the 5 who have responded. I am really excited to get more responses to this poll. The more riders who respond, the more instructive it will be. Of course, you know that... there, I'm being annoying. Someone school me on how to accomplish this without putting people off :)
 

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<-- Waits for TooTallUK to pipe up about how destroying a rear hub has nothing to do with physics and everything to do with "bad spannering".
 

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K&K
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937 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
6 responses over 17 hours. Keep 'm comin! I'll leave this open as long as the responses keep coming in.
 

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Thanks to the 5 who have responded. I am really excited to get more responses to this poll. The more riders who respond, the more instructive it will be. Of course, you know that... there, I'm being annoying. Someone school me on how to accomplish this without putting people off :)
...I'll leave this open as long as the responses keep coming in.
I'll start by thanking you. Your poll is a great idea, and over an extended time interval it could collect enough data to become a truly great resource on the subject of hub durability. I would encourage you to pursue this further, a lot further. The data is probably going to trickle in slowly, and the initial data set will be too small, too anecdotal. You need a lot more data, so give it time, and to get more exposure without having to bump the thread, ask the board monitor(s) to make this a sticky thread. Leave the poll open. Many in the snow belt are not riding yet, and probably are not participating in the forum yet.
 

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K&K
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
29 responses, guess this is still going... so, not to stir the pot or nut'n but there some noise over on the tandem mountain bike site (yes, there is such a thing) debating who puts more stress on the rear hub, mountain tandems, or clydes. I think some of you should pipe up over there >;)
 

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I've never destroyed a hub, either. My Shimano XTs went for years on my last bike, and put up with a lot of pounding and practically zero attention. DT hubs on my Enduro seem fine as well.
 

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80,000+ on whatever Shimano 105 hubs that came on my '92 C-Dale R600. Yeah, it's a road bike, but it also has a few hundred on trails due to some chases we used to do, and also a cyclocross race or two. Yes, done on slicks. max weight: 220Lbs.

Formula DC-1's survived three years on my F5, thousands of miles. Weight: 350-400Lbs.

Got an XT front and Saint rear now, 0 miles, hope to get in the first saddle time tonight.

All tandems should standardize on 15mm front and rear, with the 150mm spacing for strong wheels.
 

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K&K
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I started writing that it didn't matter, then I decided to actually think about what you wrote :p So are you saying that DT is different from other brands, or that DT Swiss has two different ratchet mechanisms?
 

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I started writing that it didn't matter, then I decided to actually think about what you wrote :p So are you saying that DT is different from other brands, or that DT Swiss has two different ratchet mechanisms?
DT Onyx and later 370 hubs use a two pawl 16 poe ratchet similar to Shimano and Mavic FTX-S hubs. It has not proven to be nearly as reliable as the Star Ratchet system.
 
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