Thanks for sharing.Was thinking about getting one.
I'm a Clinical Exercise Physiologist with over 20 years of experience in conducting maximal cardiopulmonary exercise testing (CPET). The only way to know what your maximum HR is now is to have another stress test. The one beat per year reduction in max HR is (at best) a rule of thumb, and probably pretty useless in your case given your physical activity history.I recently acquired a Garmin Instinct watch, love it, a good investment. Once thing I've been seeing is that my mt, bike rides, which is all I'm doing in the colder temperatures in the NE US, is seeing me max out my HR a few times during the ride. I am riding on generally flat Long Island, on single track, usually in a park that isn't completely flat but has a lot of short hills that the trails go up and over. My HR goes up to 160.
I did a HR Max test about 30 years ago when I was a Cat4 road racer, developed that my theoretical max at age 34 was 192. If you use the rule of 1 beat less per year, that puts my theoretical max now at around 162. I find it remarkable that I can get my heart to that. Also tells me what I've also known, that mt. biking is a very anaerobic sport, with a lot of shorter extreme efforts required. Unlike road biking where it's easier to control your effort levels, big hills the exception !.
I agree 100%. The HR monitors worn on the wrist (e.g., Apple, FitBit, Garmin, etc.) use an optical sensor to detect blood flow under the skin. They work well at HRs most people are likely to see during the course of a normal day. I don't have to tell you that mountain bikers aren't like most people and our days aren't necessarily normal. The optical sensor's accuracy falls off at higher HRs. About 4 or 5 years ago, they could be off by as much as 30% compared to an ECG. They have improved a lot since then, and we're in the middle of a study to determine how accurate they are now.Also the garmin watches are good (I use one) but heart rate data from them is generally not so accurate on bouncy trails. For better accuracy get a chest strap and pair it to your watch.
Yes, but close enough is good enough if you wan't a close number. Just do a max effort test on the bike and if done well enough it's likely to get you to what you can produce on the bike as a max. There are a lot of variables that can change the number you can produce like rest and conditioning, but it will be close enough. I'm 45 and saw 201 earlier this year. I saw 199 just yesterday on what I thought was an easy ride, but I've been off the bike for a long time.The only way to know what your maximum HR is now is to have another stress test.
My Garmin was doing that to me for a while, then it abruptly recalculated my percentages and max, and the splits made a lot more sense after that. I didn't do anything specific to cause the recalc. But I think you can also manually adjust your HR percentages in the app.I recently acquired a Garmin Instinct watch, love it, a good investment. Once thing I've been seeing is that my mt, bike rides, which is all I'm doing in the colder temperatures in the NE US, is seeing me max out my HR a few times during the ride. I am riding on generally flat Long Island, on single track, usually in a park that isn't completely flat but has a lot of short hills that the trails go up and over. My HR goes up to 160.
I did a HR Max test about 30 years ago when I was a Cat4 road racer, developed that my theoretical max at age 34 was 192. If you use the rule of 1 beat less per year, that puts my theoretical max now at around 162. I find it remarkable that I can get my heart to that. Also tells me what I've also known, that mt. biking is a very anaerobic sport, with a lot of shorter extreme efforts required. Unlike road biking where it's easier to control your effort levels, big hills the exception !.
True to a point, but also max heart rate has nothing to do with potential power. Just a guideline to let yourself know when you're about ready to blow up.You get what fate gave you.
Yep. Sort of like a tach on a motor. A Corvette vs a Honda Civic, or a huge logging truck... They all do different things with their motors, but if somebody told the owner of each of those vehicles there was a formula that predicted the limit of their motors, and they never got out and pushed them to see what they could really do but instead operated the engines inside the formula prediction, well, that would be sad.Just a guideline to let yourself know when you're about ready to blow up.
Garmin will use the default formula, but if your HR exceeds the calculated max, it will automatically adjust the max to the max rate recorded and use its default zones off that max.My Garmin was doing that to me for a while, then it abruptly recalculated my percentages and max, and the splits made a lot more sense after that. I didn't do anything specific to cause the recalc. But I think you can also manually adjust your HR percentages in the app.
I ride like I got an old GM 6.2 V8 diesel from the 80's but rev like a Civic, what does that tell you?Yep. Sort of like a tach on a motor. A Corvette vs a Honda Civic, or a huge logging truck... They all do different things with their motors, but if somebody told the owner of each of those vehicles there was a formula that predicted the limit of their motors, and they never got out and pushed them to see what they could really do but instead operated the engines inside the formula prediction, well, that would be sad.
Ugh. Conventional wisdom.
Theoretical hr Max is just what it says, theoretical.
I've always had a high max HR. I'll be 41 in a few weeks and my current max HR using a Garmin chest strap to record is 205.
I think best approach is to set zones using breathing rate.
I can hit 205 consistently at max effort, not just a one time anomaly.Not saying this is the case with your 205 number but "max" heart rate isn't necessarily the highest number you record. I was advised to throw away any anomalies.
Whatever works is good but I think power is the gold standard for zones.