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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a new wheelset with carbon rims that I'm planning on running tubeless. Does the width of the tape need to just cover the spoke holes, or is it best to have it run right to the edge of the rim. I would think this may help prevent burping and create a tighter seal with the tire.

I do realize that this may be very dependent on the rim/tire combination.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Chris
 

· Rippin da fAt
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I have a new wheelset with carbon rims that I'm planning on running tubeless. Does the width of the tape need to just cover the spoke holes, or is it best to have it run right to the edge of the rim. I would think this may help prevent burping and create a tighter seal with the tire.

I do realize that this may be very dependent on the rim/tire combination.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Chris
Right into the radius that forms the side of the rim that retains the bead of the tire works very nicely along with tightening the tire fit for fewer burps n farts! Makes for a reliable seal and prevents trouble during tire swaps.
 

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I was in a tape quandary when I got new wheels last winter. Nothing wide enough, and wanted to ride NOW.

I used tape that did not reach the edges of the rim, assuming it was a short-term solution that would need replacement.

Much to my surprise, it's still going strong.
 

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I was in a tape quandary when I got new wheels last winter. Nothing wide enough, and wanted to ride NOW.

I used tape that did not reach the edges of the rim, assuming it was a short-term solution that would need replacement.

Much to my surprise, it's still going strong.
Yep, this can be hit or miss and I have even used the plugs that go into each hole instead of tape with success(weight weenie stuff, lol). Usually the rim manufacturer has a recommended tape width for their rims.
 

· BOOM goes the dynamite!
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I've always gotten a 3-5 mm wider than the inner width so that it reaches the edges on WTB rims since a curved line is longer than a straight one. If you shop for tape on their page, it tells you what they recommend.

The shallower the center channel, the closer to the actual inner diameter so that's likely why different manufacturers use different widths (as Arm&Hammer mentioned).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I took a look and finding 85 mm wide rim tape proved to be difficult. I decided I'm just going to get two rolls for each wheel... About 35 to 40 mm wide. That way I can do each side of offset spokes all the way up to each edge. Then I'll just have a tapeless area along the center of the rim bed.
 

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You usually need 3-5mm wider tape than the actual width of the rim, depending on depth, to get a tape bed that goes from sidewall to sidewall. This is ideal from a sealing perspective, because the only place air is trying to get under it is at the transverse seam where the tape overlaps. If you happen to have a tape that is 1) very strong and 2) has a thin, tenacious adhesive, you can get away with just covering the spoke holes, provided you seat the tape with a tube for the curing time of the adhesive, and you do an A+ job cleaning/preparing the surface of the rim (which isn't always possible, depending on construction).

The whole rim width method is better though, unless the rim was specifically designed for something else.
 

· Thingamejigger
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I took a look and finding 85 mm wide rim tape proved to be difficult. I decided I'm just going to get two rolls for each wheel... About 35 to 40 mm wide. That way I can do each side of offset spokes all the way up to each edge. Then I'll just have a tapeless area along the center of the rim bed.
I use the sun ringle tape for the centre and then (in this picture) tesa 4289 on each bead, which is 'Strapping tape' for google. I have actually found Tesa 4288 to be a little better as it stretches when you pull on it, you can get either in various widths.

 
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