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agh!...i just did that with some m960 xtr cranks....must have made it too strong 'cause it pitted the holy heck out of them...even i was checking every 30 seconds......ugh

now i'm sanding, sanding, sading......i'll get it back to a polished finish....but it's gonna take a while
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
CHUM said:
agh!...i just did that with some m960 xtr cranks....must have made it too strong 'cause it pitted the holy heck out of them...even i was checking every 30 seconds......ugh

now i'm sanding, sanding, sading......i'll get it back to a polished finish....but it's gonna take a while

Sorry to hear that, Nick.

From what I can tell, Hope's are 100% Holy Heck-Free!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dirt_Diggler said:
i will be doing this to my rims next week. we'll see how it goes. i also heard degreaser works.

FY'izzle. It ended up being more work than I thought it would. I used metal polish and sos pads to clean the metal after the drain cleaner got rid of the coloring- as the draino left of good bit of slag on the aluminium.

This took some work, and the knobs on the skewer nuts aren't perfect. Then I used metal polish and a rag to buff them out.

All in all, it's waaaay better than blue!

(spy photo of soon-to-be-released, and as yet un-named Ti hardtail below ;-)
 

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Medium?
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CHUM said:
kicking myself now.....
Stop kicking, get a dremel tool and some rubbing compound. If it's really bad, 400 grit wet/dry sand paper with water, then 600 grit, then the rubbing compound. Oh, and beer...
 

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easy off industrial will reduce your bits into a chemical/ aluminum slurry, but I've had good luck with the consumer strength Easy Off.
 

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velocipus said:
easy off industrial will reduce your bits into a chemical/ aluminum slurry, but I've had good luck with the consumer strength Easy Off.
Yeah, the $4.95, yellow can from Target has worked wonderfully for me!
 

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sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is typically used for stripping anodizing. One thing to remember is that aluminum is anodized to provide corrosion protection. Depending upon the aluminum alloy your newly stripped aluminum part may start to corrode. Best thing is to live with your old-school color.
 

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justbob said:
Depending upon the aluminum alloy your newly stripped aluminum part may start to corrode. Best thing is to live with your old-school color.
Would clear coating you newly stripped part prevent such a thing?
 

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justbob said:
sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is typically used for stripping anodizing. One thing to remember is that aluminum is anodized to provide corrosion protection. Depending upon the aluminum alloy your newly stripped aluminum part may start to corrode. Best thing is to live with your old-school color.
I donno... the corrosion gives it kind of a "works" finish. Let it rot I say.
 

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clear coating might work. However, bare aluminum is notorious for being difficult to get coatings to adhere to. Pretreatments such as a chemical conversion coating or anodizing are used to improve the adhesion to the bare aluminum. Conversion coatings are similar to anodizing in nature, aluminum oxide, but much less robust. Thus, they provide little corrosion resistance when compared to anodizing. If you have an anodized part that you hate the color you are probably better off painting right over the anodizing.
 

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hey guys...not anywhere near Norcal but this was the thread I was looking for..

I sent some Surly Large Marge rims for chemical striping beginning this week and the guys at the shop called me to say the paint didn't fall off...I wrote to Surly and they recommend me the Easy-Off method.

I'm going to powder coat the rims after the stripping...what do you guys think? Can I do the powder coat without the stripping? or should I proceed with the Easy-Off first?

what exactly is the Easy-Off method?

Thanks!
 
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