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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can you share any tips or tricks for how to optimize gear shifting? How to improve shifting speed, shifting smoothness, etc? Any particular equipment, technology, lubes, etc? I currently use gripshifters and Eagle GX component group which seems like a decent cost/quality sweet spot
 

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high pivot witchcraft
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Yes. When shifting into the 2nd or 1st gear (up or down for the 2nd gear), make damn well sure you do it so you aren't torquing on the drivetrain. On my XO Eagle drivetrain, it takes about 2 or 3 seconds for the chain to fully engage on the ring.

Every single person I know has the same issue. It's a piece of ****. And yeah, the B-nut has been adjusted properly.

Have fun. I am moving to Shimano first chance I get.

PS - in before da move...
 

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Ever since shimano 10speed, shifting under load is just fine, so really you don't have to optimize anything, just shift whenever you want.

If you are having shifting problems though, perhaps you need to adjust your drive train properly.
 

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Can you share any tips or tricks for how to optimize gear shifting? How to improve shifting speed, shifting smoothness, etc? Any particular equipment, technology, lubes, etc? I currently use gripshifters and Eagle GX component group which seems like a decent cost/quality sweet spot
What is it NOT doing well? Maybe it's acting normally and can't be improved. Hard to tell what needs fixed when all we can go by is you want to improve it.

I have NX on my bike and it's pretty much flawless, can't think of why it could be improved.
I don't think it can shift any more quickly than it does and it sure seems darn smooth to me.

So what isn't working well? Has it been to a shop for a tune -could be that something is out of adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you find a noticeable difference in shifting speed and smoothness between a chain that has been heavily lubed and a chain that has not been lubed for a very long time? Do you find a noticeable difference in shifting speed and smoothness between certain chain greases and lubes?
 

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Cable routing can have a significant impact on shift quality, you want the least amount of bends as possible, and hardtails usually have the best routing.
I've zip-tied rear der housing to the brake cable instead of the manufacturer-suggested routing on an old FSR Stumpjumper, I'll take function over form when it comes to shift quality any day.
And I've never seen chain lubes making a difference but a new vs worn chain can make a hell of a difference.
 

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My experience is everything helps...
1. Setup of hi/lo stops
2. B' Gap setup
3. Cable condition (lube cable / housing occasionally or replace as needed)
4. Cable routing (no kinks)
5. Keep drivetrain clean and well lubricated (I use chain/cable lube from auto parts store...$5 for a large squirt can).
6. Derailleur hanger alignment

Also, as the miles add up an understanding that drivetrain is a SYSTEM and wear of any component can impact shifting (chain, cassette, chainring). It's best to replace a chain occasionally (cheapest and easiest item to replace) before it gets to a point where it causes wear of tooth profile on cassette and/or chainring. Many folks wait too long to replace a worn chain only to discover they still have shifting issues because cassette and/or chainring wear is mismatched with the new chain. At a certain point it's best to replace all at once.
 

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Personally, I don't feel grip shifters are as quick/snappy as triggers. If it were me, I would swap those out.
 

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Everything matters, in a general order of importance-

Cables should be clean and perfectly smooth. Or go electric.

Hanger straight.

Drivetrain components in good condition (not worn) chain and derailleur clean and lubed.

Cable tension, b-screw and limit screws obviously need to be right.
 

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I have a GX Eagle drivetrain with trigger shifting (I'd ditch the grip shift), keep my chain fairly clean and lubed, ease up slightly on the torque as the chain moves to a new gear and have had no problems at all.
 

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Yes. When shifting into the 2nd or 1st gear (up or down for the 2nd gear), make damn well sure you do it so you aren't torquing on the drivetrain. On my XO Eagle drivetrain, it takes about 2 or 3 seconds for the chain to fully engage on the ring.

Every single person I know has the same issue. It's a piece of ****. And yeah, the B-nut has been adjusted properly.

Have fun. I am moving to Shimano first chance I get.

PS - in before da move...
I agree, many make the mistake of cranking hard while shifting. All gears I try to let up a bit on the torque. Of course it's situational but having that mindset helps in the efficiency of the shift and length of drivetrain life.
 

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I have posted last week that I was having a shifting problem from 6th to 5th smaller cog. Bike would stutter, and when I pressed the shifter again, would jump to the 4th.

Solved the problem by adding two links to the chain.
 
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