Run your front tire about 5psi lower than your rear tire. That will give you a little more grip on the front, or a little less grip on the rear, depending on how you look at it.
If you have a 1.5" head tube, you can use a Cane Creek Angleset with a 1 1/8" fork, and set it up for about 1 degree slacker than the frame's default head tube angle. I've done this on one bike just to see what difference it would make, and while it does make a difference I think it's pretty subtle.
You could also run a fork with a longer axle-to-crown length - which basically just means a fork with longer travel, too - and that will increase the head tube angle. I think you get roughly 1 degree lower HTA per 20mm but I haven't looked into this for a long time so you should double-check that figure. Or someone else will chime in to set me straight.
Running a longer fork will also raise your crank (by a bit less than half the amount of the length increase) and tilt your seat tube back (by an amount equal to the HTA decrease) and thus move your seat rearward a little bit (this trigonometry problem is left as an exercise for the reader).
It wouldn't hurt to estimate how much those will change, and see how the resulting geometry compares to other bikes on the market. I think you'll find that it's all no big deal, but then again I've always been of the opinion that how you ride matters far more than what you ride (with bikes, with skateboards, with snowboards, etc) and with bikes there are a lot of other variables you can adjust to fine-tune the feel (stem length, stem height ,bar width, seat position, yadda yadda yadda).
All of that said, I strongly suggest adjusting your tire pressures. It costs nothing and it's trivial to undo it if you don't like the results. I run about 30 front and 35 rear.
