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How to disassemble this hub?

23K views 29 replies 11 participants last post by  fmendes 
#1 ·
So I have a Salsa Timberjack SLX 27.5+ 2019. The rear hub is making an annoying hum, and I wanted to put some lube and see if it solves. Weird enough I couldn't disassemble past the caps and axle. Looks like there's a tool needed, that I've never seen before:


Tried to identify which hub is that, looked into the TJ topic, and seems that my hub is not the same as that one. Also the Salsa web page does not contain any information about that hub.

To make things weirder, the spline on the picture above is wider than the inner diameter of the bearings, meaning that I probably need to remove one of the bearings to insert the tool (assuming that that's the right way to disassemble this hub).

Has anybody ever seen this?
 
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#4 ·
just guessing here
a picture from the freehub side
will be more informative about your freehub side of the hub
than a picture from the brake side

I know it's a stretch....and almost sounds like a fairy tale, but humor us

in my experience with modern hubs you just have to yank hard to get things
to pop off....might be an o-ring holding it in
 
#8 ·
So I tried again. Used considerable force, just enough to prevent bending the big cog on the cassette. Didn't move a hair.

I noticed that the axle is supported by two bearings only. Based on that observation I deduct that there must be another bearing between the body of the hub and the freehub. The freehub spins on the hub when the axle is not in place, confirming the presence of the bearing. Still not the most common construction. Hope will last at least one year.






More info:
- Although being a budget bike, the internals of this hub are mostly steel (axle and freehub).
- 15 POE, and is a very silent hub, except for the humming.
- The bike is 2 months old, so I may just throw the towel and let the LBS take care of it.
- Of course I also tried to pull after removing the axle and caps, and didn't move.
- When I spin the freehub, the internal spline does not move.
 

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#9 ·
Shine a light inside the free hub and see if there are any flat sides down there, some hubs use a giant hex wrench (14mm?) to unscrew the freehub from the non- drive side.

There isn't much to grease or oil though, you can pull the seals on cartridge bearings but mostly when they're bad you just replace them.
 
#10 ·
although i dont have an answer i would like to add that im in the same boat with one of the wheels i have.

OP, it looks like the inside of the freehub uses some sort of spline tool like a cassette removal tool...right? most ( that i have ) have a 6mm hex. loosen and it comes right off.

i just figured i didnt have the right tool and havent got back to that wheel yet.
im surprised to see this up here with out an immediate answer. i figured it was a simple tool answer...maybe still is?
 
#13 ·
although i dont have an answer i would like to add that im in the same boat with one of the wheels i have.

OP, it looks like the inside of the freehub uses some sort of spline tool like a cassette removal tool...right? most ( that i have ) have a 6mm hex. loosen and it comes right off.

i just figured i didnt have the right tool and havent got back to that wheel yet.
im surprised to see this up here with out an immediate answer. i figured it was a simple tool answer...maybe still is?
Yes, there is a spline, but is much bigger than 6mm. Considering that the thru-axle is 12mm, the spline has to be at least the same size, or bigger. But then, to reach that spline, I have to remove the bearing, as the ID of the bearing is also 12mm...

Shine a light inside the free hub and see if there are any flat sides down there, some hubs use a giant hex wrench (14mm?) to unscrew the freehub from the non- drive side.
That may be. Having 12 splines, is very plausible that a 14mm allen key would work. Still I'm puzzled by a design that requires to remove one of the bearings just to access the freehub. I wonder if I want to potentially destroy one bearing just to get rid of this humming.

Still, thanks for all the answers. Looks like reaching that spline is the way to go.
 
#14 ·
I think it has 12 sides so the axle will clear but a 6 side hex will still fit.

That may be. Having 12 splines, is very plausible that a 14mm allen key would work. Still I'm puzzled by a design that requires to remove one of the bearings just to access the freehub. I wonder if I want to potentially destroy one bearing just to get rid of this humming.
You only have to remove the non-drive side bearing, it won't destroy it.

Again though, if the bearings are bad they'll need to be replaced anyway and if they're not you may be trying to solve the wrong problem.
 
#15 ·
I think it has 12 sides so the axle will clear but a 6 side hex will still fit.

You only have to remove the non-drive side bearing, it won't destroy it.

Again though, if the bearings are bad they'll need to be replaced anyway and if they're not you may be trying to solve the wrong problem.
Looks like a Formula hub. The hex nut is 11/12mm depending on the hub design. Usually, removing the freehub doesn't require removing bearings.

I'm willing to bet, that unless the OP has worked on these hubs before, or is at a bike shop, they probably don't have hex keys in that size range.
 
#18 ·
The inside first picture kinda looks like the inside of the Shimano freehub I'm trying to get off, which is supposed to take a 14 mm hex wrench. Please let me know what works for yours.

View attachment 1279879
Not exactly that, but the picture looks promising. I'll pass by a hardware store as soon as is safe to drive around (I'm around Houston, and Imelda is coming tonight). The design of the Shimano hub seems better than the hub I have, that only allows inserting the tool from the non-drive side.

But I looked into the Park Tool site, and looks like the 14mm allen wrench is the one used for Shimano freehubs:
https://www.parktool.com/product/14mm-hex-wrench-hr-14
 
#24 ·
It's made for a large hex, Kona uses the same interface for their suspension pivot bolts. 12 pt will fit a 6 pt hex even if it looks odd
 
#26 ·
Perhaps it's a 12 or 13? Might be easier to take it to a shop and have them try different sizes and then you'll know what to use rather than destroying a hex.
 
#29 ·
I bought a 14mm wrench, but didn't even test it. I was starting to feel a little ridiculous risking to damage one of the bearings just to (maybe) fix the humming.

So the problem is temporarily solved by putting a generous amount of teflon oil (the same I use on my Hadley hub) inside the hub. Improved a lot. When the hub breaks, I come back to the subject, if I don't decide for a better hub.
 
#30 ·
So, from this other thread, I got some light. This is the hub (WTB Serra):
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0202/9884/files/ServiceSerraHubs_20190326v3.pdf?651

And from the manual (surprisingly decent), it reads:
The freehub is removed from the hub using a 14mm hex key once both the bearing nut and end cap are removed from the drive side. Insert the 14mm hex key into the non-drive side of the hub and slide it through until it engages with the freehub body carrier (8) on the drive side. Looking at the non-drive side of the shell, rotate the 14mm hex key clockwise to remove it from the hub shell.
Mystery solved 100%! Thanks to all.
 
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