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It's made for a large hex, Kona uses the same interface for their suspension pivot bolts. 12 pt will fit a 6 pt hex even if it looks odd
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I hoping that the problem is that the 14 mm allen I have is just too big. It measures slightly more than 14 mm. I'm not sure how tight the tolerances are on the hub.
At least that would be easy to solve, with a Dremel. Still puzzles me that nobody had (so far) a positive answer about how to open these hubs. I though it would be a silly question, but seems it is not. I'll try the 14mm wrench tonight, and grind if needed. At least I know I don't need to grind a 15mm...
 
Perhaps it's a 12 or 13? Might be easier to take it to a shop and have them try different sizes and then you'll know what to use rather than destroying a hex.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I bought a 14mm wrench, but didn't even test it. I was starting to feel a little ridiculous risking to damage one of the bearings just to (maybe) fix the humming.

So the problem is temporarily solved by putting a generous amount of teflon oil (the same I use on my Hadley hub) inside the hub. Improved a lot. When the hub breaks, I come back to the subject, if I don't decide for a better hub.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
So, from this other thread, I got some light. This is the hub (WTB Serra):
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0202/9884/files/ServiceSerraHubs_20190326v3.pdf?651

And from the manual (surprisingly decent), it reads:
The freehub is removed from the hub using a 14mm hex key once both the bearing nut and end cap are removed from the drive side. Insert the 14mm hex key into the non-drive side of the hub and slide it through until it engages with the freehub body carrier (8) on the drive side. Looking at the non-drive side of the shell, rotate the 14mm hex key clockwise to remove it from the hub shell.
Mystery solved 100%! Thanks to all.
 
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