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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all :thumbsup:

Well for my fourth tutorial, today I'm gonna show you how to retrofit a RC3 damper into a pre 06/07 66. Why would you do this you ask? Well, you get to upgrade your 66 to the latest damper, but retain you italian made goodness of the chassis (i.e, no bushing slop, creeking crowns of 08/09, but 2010 looks set to be killer!! :thumbsup: )

Now this means you can have abit of a play with what you want

You can have an RC3 ETA
You can have an RC3X (this is whats shown in the guide, pure heaven :D )
You can have an RC3 ATA
You can have an RC3 SL (have also done this, again a worthy mod)

The list goes on, as Marzocchi parts are very interchangeable between various models and years (bless those lazy Marz Engineers :p )

Righto, as per usual, to cover my butt from any Hamfisted wrenches out there;

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU CAUSE TO YOUR FORK, PERSONA OR SURROUNDINGS.

This is quite a simple procedure to do if you have abit of mechanical inclination, its not hard and use your common sense, dont go blasting the WC DH runs right after performing it, have a few easy rides first to make sure everything is done correctly''

Righto, time to get to work

================================================================

First, your gonna wanna gather some tools and parts;

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Tools:
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(Note: these tools are for a 66 RC2X, some may differ with other variants of the fork)

- 10mm spanner
- Cassette lockring tool
- 12mm socket
- 4mm socket
- Multi grips
- Rags
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Measuring Jug

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Parts
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- 7.5 wt quality suspension oil, i use a 50/50 blend of Castrol 5wt and 10wt
- Marzocchi RC3 Damper
Now this can be the tricky bit, you can get one from a broken donor 08/09 66 or you will have to order it from Marzocchi, i ordered mine from the Aussie Importer, $165 and it was at my door in 2 days, thanks Brad at SCV!!!
The part number for the Cart is 703847/R

================================================================

Procedure:

Step 1:

Right, now that you have collected all your bits, lay everything out on a nice clean work area



Heres a pic of the Cart, showing its Part number



Step 2:

Back off adjustments on both Rebound and Compression, then remove the Rebound and Compression adjuster, put them aside in a safe place.





Step 3:

Using a 12mm socket, remove the footnut of the RC2 Cart





Step 4:

Using a cassette lockring tool, remove the top cap, be sure you have the fork over an oil pan because when you undo and lift out the top cap, the entire spring and cartridge assembly will lift out an oil will pour from the bottom of the fork



Step 5:

With cartridge removed, use a 10mm spanner to hold the red jam nut, and use a cassette lockring tool to undo the top cap, when its undone, remove the top cap, spring and spring retainer, set them aside in a safe place





Step 6:

Remove the RC3 cart from is packaging and lay it next to the RC2 cart. Keen eyes will notice that the RC3 cart has a spacer on the base of the cart and is slightly longer than the RC2 Cart

A pic of the spacer on the RC3 cart, sitting next to the RC2 cart (3 on left, 2 on right)
The spacer can be removed by using a set of multigrips to grip it then unwind it from the base of the cart



The RC3 is slightly longer than the RC2



Step 7:

Because the RC3 cart is longer than the RC2 cart, should you want to install the spring onto the RC3 cart, you will need to cut the spring retainer at the black line shown in the pic. As i intended to run my fork as a single spring set up, I didnt cut mine



Step 8:

Reinstall the topcap onto the Cart, screw it on until it bottoms, then tighten the jam nut onto it. Also, if you are going to be running a spring, then install the spring retainer and spring onto the cart before you install the top cap





Step 9:

Reinsert the Cart back into the fork leg





Step 10:

Using a 10mm Spanner and a 4mm socket, tighten the footnut by using the socket to hold the gold adjuster while you do up the footnut. Only use the socket until the nut has engaged the threads of the Cart and you can tighten the nut without the cart spinning inside the fork leg, cause if you break the gold adjuster, your screwed



Step 11:

Reinstall the Compression adjuster, fill the fork back up with oil (consult Marz website for oil levels for you fork model), then using the lockring tool, reinstall the top cap and rebound adjust and thats it, your done!







Success = BEER! :cornut:

Now go and enjoy you RC3 Sprung, italian made awesomenuss! :thumbsup:
 

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NIce write up. Do you have an extra X cartidge you would like to part with ? I'd like to add that cartridge to my OEM 66 RC2 Light. Thanks.
 

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Single spring

Awesome write up!

Step 7, you talk about a single spring setup. So, you're just running a spring in the other leg, right? Can you replace it with a 2010 Ti to save weight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
CRFer said:
Awesome write up!

Step 7, you talk about a single spring setup. So, you're just running a spring in the other leg, right? Can you replace it with a 2010 Ti to save weight?
Now im assuming your talking about the Ti spring from a 2010 66? in which case no, it wont work because the new 66 spring dosent fit inside the stanchion tube, i try'ed to drop my 09 66 spring in there and it wont fit

You may be able to drop a 55 Ti spring in there, but you may have problems with trying to get it onto the cart, because marzocchi no longer use springs on the actual cartridge's, now they have a dedicated single spring assembly in the right leg of the fork, while the left houses the carts.

You might be able to put a 2010 55 Ti spring on the cart, but you would first have to see if

1 - The Ti spring will fit the ID of the stanchion tube
2 - The spring will actually physically fit on the cart

May pay to first try it with a regular 55 steel spring, so you dont go dropping big dollars on something that wont work, if you do try this, let us know how it goes, could prove to be another great mod tutorial to ad to this site :thumbsup:
 

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earide
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55 spring into 66 2007 - 180mm

Nick_M2R said:
Now im assuming your talking about the Ti spring from a 2010 66? in which case no, it wont work because the new 66 spring dosent fit inside the stanchion tube, i try'ed to drop my 09 66 spring in there and it wont fit

You may be able to drop a 55 Ti spring in there, but you may have problems with trying to get it onto the cart, because marzocchi no longer use springs on the actual cartridge's, now they have a dedicated single spring assembly in the right leg of the fork, while the left houses the carts.

You might be able to put a 2010 55 Ti spring on the cart, but you would first have to see if

1 - The Ti spring will fit the ID of the stanchion tube
2 - The spring will actually physically fit on the cart

May pay to first try it with a regular 55 steel spring, so you dont go dropping big dollars on something that wont work, if you do try this, let us know how it goes, could prove to be another great mod tutorial to ad to this site :thumbsup:

is there any returns for the 55 spring into the rc2x (or rc3x)
is that works for a 180mm travel?

thanks !
 

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Hey, would it be possible to go other way round?
I soon have both an 2011 66 RC3 Evo Ti, and an older (to be replaced) 2007 RC2 ETA. I'ld love to get the ETA over into the 2011 fork, but keep RC3 and Ti spring (if I loose the preload that doesn't really matter, I'm light and need no spring preload). A 2011 RC3 Evo ETA Ti would be plain madness...

Is this possible??
(would reduce the resale value of the 2007 RC2 non ETA, but won't get much for it anyhow....)
 

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kneecap
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I've thought about the same modification, but haven't had time to compare top caps & bottom configurations to see if cartridges will change over.
Marzocchi has a new travel adjust entering the market next year, so maybe that direction?
 

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Nah, the new travel adjustment ain't anything like ETA. I need at least 6-8cm travel adjustment on my 66, else it's not comfortable going uphill long times - at least not without a shock that has a real lockout at 0 travel - my Roco TST R has this more or less lock out - but that happens at sag, so about 33% travel (it is still well possible to go uphill, as my Iron Horse got 74° seat tube angle, 65° head angle so it doesn't get much better).

So it it ain't work, I'll use an external spanner to keep the fork down for longer uphills (30mins or more).
 

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Any tool that I can attach externally to span the fork down. Most usual would be some sort of tie down strap, but if maybe for your trip you need a short climbing rope, use that instead....

Just make sure to take the strap off when going downhill so it cannot get into the fork, a friend of mine spent 1 week in hospital due to the strap getting caught on the front wheel while riding 60km/h down a fireroad
 

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Old thread I know....but I'm wondering...do you still have that RC2 Cartridge? and if so...is it the same one that would work in my AM1s? my TST2 is gone...and I'd like to replace it with the RC2
 

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hello. i got a used 44 on ebay and the compression damping barely seems to work and i have a few questions for anyone who can answer them:

1) that little rubber o-ring in the second photo under "Step 8"... what is it's purpose? i saw that on my cartridge and thought maybe it belonged inside the cartridge. i guess not

2) how can one tell if one has the soft or medium spring in one's fork?

3) can the rc3 damping cartridge itself be taken apart?

4) any idea how i can fix my problem? i put in 10wt oil and the damping seems marginally better

i LOVE the fork going through rock gardens etc, but it seems to bottom out pretty easily on even small jumps if i land even just a little nose-heavy. And the difference in damping when fully open or fully closed is just barely discernable. i weigh about 200 pounds, maybe 210 with gear.

Thanks in advance for any answers! Ad apologies if i posted these questions in the wrong place
 
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