[MTBinMTL]

Help,
Considering the Nomad as an upgrade to my 04 Enduro; How can i build this bike to be sub 30 pounds? Considering light Free riding and all day epic rides.

Would like to stay with Fox 36 upfront, Mavic cross max and Shimano XT.

Thanks Dany

 

[Dogboy]

Put a bunch of XC parts on it and marginalize its ability as a burly bike.

ps. why not a Blur LT? Sounds much more like what you want.

 

[MTBinMTL]

Put a bunch of XC parts on it and marginalize its ability as a burly bike.

ps. why not a Blur LT? Sounds much more like what you want.

Maybe that would be a better choice? looking at full 6" travel and descending and FR capabilities with Nomad geometry

 

[TNC]

Interesting thought but maybe not realistic. I've built up a couple of light Bullits, but I've kept them useable for all day trail riding with the ability to do light FR without breaking. You're on target with those wheels...they're just about the strongest light wheels around...I use them. I also use non-UST WTB Weirwolf tires run in tubeless mode with Stan's sealant...can't get much lighter on these wheels. I use reasonably light cranks and even a carbon bar. The other components are reasonably light without being fragile. About 32.5 lbs. is as light as I've achieved with any degree of durability and peace of mind. If you consider a Nomad is about a 1.5 lb. lighter frame than a Bullit, then achieving sub-30 lb. weight is going to be a real compromise. Using every light XC carbon part known to man, titanium nuts and bolts, and waaaaay light XC wheels and tires could possibly achieve that sub-30 lb. weight target, but then it really might not be a Nomad anymore. A couple of guys at our shop have just gotten Blur LTs. These things don't really strike me as just being a long legged XC bike. The geometry numbers and travel really seem to put this bike into the category of aggressive trail bike to me. One of the guys has his large BLT built to 28.5 lbs. with CrossMax XL wheels and no super light XC parts...not bad...and you can install 6" forks on them.

 

[stephanmol]

I just build mine with xo grupo and a nixon fork, 5th element gravity and weighted at 28 lb

 

[timehoc]

Use the bike builder function for the Nomad on the santacruz website. They have multiple nomad builds in the 27/28 range.

 

[TNC]

What wheels and tires?

I just build mine with xo grupo and a nixon fork, 5th element gravity and weighted at 28 lb

Remember, he said light FR. Personally I'd be concerned with anything less than something like the CrossMax XLs. Plus for aggressive trail with light FR, wouldn't a 6" fork be a better choice? When you get that bike builder program to break the 30lb. mark, you're getting a long travel XC bike...not a bad deal if that's what you're after, but when you say "light FR" you'd better up the ante on components just a little bit. Heck, I built a 29lb. Bullit, but it was barely aggressive trail, and it sure wasn't FR worthy at any level.

 

[Porchsong]

I'm going to give it a try!

I've got a bk Ano large Nomad frame and I'm going to try to keep it under 30lbs. I really don't know if it will happen but I'm going to give it a shot. I have not added up all the individual parts, but here is my plan.

Large Nomad ano bk
DHX air
Maverick DUC32
Chris King headset
Thompson post
old WTB saddle I like, I forget the model name, lazer v maybe.
Easton Monkey light carbon bars
Avid Juicy 7's 160mm rear, 185 front
Sram XO triggers
Sram XO rear D (maybe the med cage, I'm not sure yet)
XTR front D
Race Face Atlas cranks - ??? any comments on other outboard cranks sets?
crank bros candy sl peddals
Chris King front 24mm hub
Chris King ISO rear hub
Kenda Nevgal 2.35 F&R

Now here is my dilemma, I want to build an all day AM rig that I can climb at a resonable pace all day and rip on the way home. I don't shuttle, or ride lifts, and I never done any drops beyond 4-5 feet to smooth trans, I'm +- 180lbs w/ gear, and I'm undecided on rims. Oh, and I'm not a rim basher like some of my buddies .. I'd like to consider myself a reasonably smooth rider, but who knows.

Help me think about rims, spokes, nips.
DT EX5.1D are at the top of my list but maybe I could use a lighter rim? I used to have 717's on my superlight and never knocked them out of true that bad - but..bigger, faster, more capabile bike = more aggressive terrrian. Maybe DT 4.1D or one of the Mavics? Tubbles is not a huge issue for me. Ya all pickin' up what I'm puttin' down?
Oh, I've been told that it is not recomended to use black spokes with black nipples, is that correct?

Any constructive comments would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

Thanks,

Porch

 

[RobsterCraw]

Sub 30lbs won't be hard at all, but by sub 30 I mean like a couple ounces under (thats considering that you want to do light FR).

this bike is just a little over 29lbs. XT cranks will certainly save weigh, but you may not need to go that low, Hones, may be light enough. Some people assume that you need DeeMaxes just for any kind of FR but I've had XM819s on my hardtail for some time now and they are still in good shape. I think the bike in the picture here actually has custom anodized EX823s and it is still under 30lbs. I'd go for the XM819s or whatever the CrossMax equivalent is. I don't like the feel of Nixons, I would go for a Marz Z1, Fox 36, or Pike. I always say best way to save weight is in your rotating weight, it makes the biggest difference. Depending on your definition of "Light Freeriding," you may need to factor in the weight of a chainguide.

Just remember that weight saving can be done, but should be secondary to getting good reliable equipment. I'm not saying you need to put heavy DH equipmet on it, I'm just saying that bike weight is only one factor in the ride quality equation. I haven't heard good things about the 5th element air gravity. On the SC website their XO XC build has some good stuff, I would just get slightly beefier rims and tires and factor in a chainguide. You may want beefier hubs too, but it won't be a big deal unless you really thrash this bike.

 

[pffft]

my large polished w/ dhx air weighs ~32.5lbs on an Ultimate hanging scale

rims 223 averaged 448gms, + 14-15 spokes brass nipples
hub king
qr xt
rd x9
fd xt
brakes Hayes Nines, 6 inch rotors
shifters xo grip
f tire weirwolf 2.5
f tube slime
r tire motoraptor 2.4
r tube slime
cranks xt 751
bb xt 752
chainrings xt 752
chain pc69
seatpost thomson (cut to ~350mm)
seat terry firefly ti
qr salsa
stem titec
bar easton ea70
grips oury
fork AM1
pedals shimano 515

Obvious places to save weight would be tubes and tires, an easy lb right there.
Probably another fairly easy pound in lighter cockpit, but I am 200lbs and not ready
for carbon. So figure, what, 2-300gm without breaking stuff but would cost a lot.
Pedals are heavy.
There are lighter brakes, which would allow same weight with bigger rotors, maybe?
A Maverick fork would save nearly a pound, I suppose. (mine weighs 4.8lb cut)

No point to make or suggestions on how these bikes were meant to be built, just
a reference point for those without one to play with and weigh themselves (yet)

 

[m-dub]

"Now here is my dilemma, I want to build an all day AM rig that I can climb at a resonable pace all day and rip on the way home. I don’t shuttle, or ride lifts, and I never done any drops beyond 4-5 feet to smooth trans, I'm +- 180lbs w/ gear, and I'm undecided on rims. Oh, and I'm not a rim basher like some of my buddies .. I'd like to consider myself a reasonably smooth rider, but who knows."

I have had great luck with the mavic F519 ( may have changed its name for 05/06) They weigh 460g and are 24.5mm wide.Handle 2.35 great and have hammered on them with no issues. I also consider myself a smooth rider and have shuttled, dropped 5'+ to flat and bigger to tranny. Also the same wheels that I have done 24hour events with. just a thought. They are laced to king hubs and 14/15 spokes. The only thing that I didnt like was the rim brake (silver)side wall but nothing a little wide tipped sharpy couldn't turn black PS im 190lbs

 

[pffft]

I have had great luck with the mavic F519 ( may have changed its name for 05/06) They weigh 460g and are 24.5mm wide.Handle 2.35 great and have hammered on them with no issues. I also consider myself a smooth rider and have shuttled, dropped 5'+ to flat and bigger to tranny. Also the same wheels that I have done 24hour events with. just a thought. They are laced to king hubs and 14/15 spokes. The only thing that I didnt like was the rim brake (silver)side wall but nothing a little wide tipped sharpy couldn't turn black PS im 190lbs

Huh! Great minds must think alike. I just built up a 519 on a Hadley rear hub because they
seemed the obvious next step. And they're cheap!

 

[islander]

Huh! Great minds must think alike. I just built up a 519 on a Hadley rear hub because they
seemed the obvious next step. And they're cheap!

I'll give a 3rd vote for the F519 (now renamed as "X719"). I've got them on my Heckler and feel they strike the best balance of weight and durability. Mine have stayed round on the northshore yet aren't too heavy for all day epics.

So, Porchsong: I'm going to say your very best bet is is build up Chris King hubs with 719's. Use 14/15ga double butted spokes and alloys nipples, 32hole, 3 cross. This will give you a sturdy wheelset that best matches the intended purpose of the Nomad. As an added bonus, the king hubs are easily serviceable, and you can replace the spokes easily too (the same can't be said for CrossmaxXL's). Those Nevegals wil be just perfect on these wheels too.

 

[Porchsong]

Thanks for the feedback

Yeah that is what I've been dreaming about, 3 cross 14/15 DB DT spokes with alloy nipples laced to Kings. I've had a ISO's and Hadley's in the past, but I'm partial to the Kings.
I know that you can use black spokes with black brass nipples, but what about black spokes with black alloy nipples?
X719's huh? Is it a disadvantage to run a non disk rim, in a disk wheel?

Thanks for the feedback,

Porch

 

[m-dub]

" Is it a disadvantage to run a non disk rim, in a disk wheel?"

None that I have found. Maybe be the silver sidewalls but like I said just run a wide tipped sharpy black pen and "wall-la" problem solved.

 

[SHooTEK]

I'll build a wheelset for my Nomad (if it ever arrives ) out of:

DT EX 5.1d rims (500g,28mm wide)
DT 440 hubs (20mm front)
DT supercomp spokes
DT alloy nipples

DT calculator gave me 1850g for the set so just a little more weight then crossmax XL.

 

[GspotRider]

I found the F519 were easy to warp and never really fell in love with them being a tad bit narrow. I would definately give Stan's notubes freeride rims a look. They are bit expensive, but their weight (545g if i remember) is not bad and they are pretty wide giving a nice profile with wider tires. The extra weight compared to the F519 can be offset by the fact you can convert a tire to tubeless with stans latex goop and not have to add a heavy rimstrip. I have stans notube olympic rims for my xc bike and tires seal on it really fast and easy compared to the rimstrips.

I was inspired by Mark Weir's bike and tried out a gravity dropper seatpost. I makes the bike heavier, but it really changes how you approach the trail. When the trail becomes undulating, you can put the seat down and really groove on the dh and if needed you can put the seat back up to climb up short climbs more comfortably and fast. With it I tend to ride faster. But the important thing is that this seatpost really increases my ride enjoyment... a lot.

 

[TNC]

Damn Mark Weir.

I found the F519 were easy to warp and never really fell in love with them being a tad bit narrow. I would definately give Stan's notubes freeride rims a look. They are bit expensive, but their weight (545g if i remember) is not bad and they are pretty wide giving a nice profile with wider tires. The extra weight compared to the F519 can be offset by the fact you can convert a tire to tubeless with stans latex goop and not have to add a heavy rimstrip. I have stans notube olympic rims for my xc bike and tires seal on it really fast and easy compared to the rimstrips.

I was inspired by Mark Weir's bike and tried out a gravity dropper seatpost. I makes the bike heavier, but it really changes how you approach the trail. When the trail becomes undulating, you can put the seat down and really groove on the dh and if needed you can put the seat back up to climb up short climbs more comfortably and fast. With it I tend to ride faster. But the important thing is that this seatpost really increases my ride enjoyment... a lot.

Yeah, I've been tempted for some time by one of those Gravity Dropper posts, and after seeing one on Weir's bike, it didn't help...LOL! I think many consider this a DH/FR-only item, but I agree with you that it is probably a real asset on long trail rides in technical terrain with lots of up and down. Looks like it may be worth the weight.

 

[MTBinMTL]

Thanks!!!

I don't care if its 29 vs 31 pounds; Looks like with the suggestion in the post I can build it-up to handle 80% of my needs and heck assuming its harder to pedal-up hill then my riding buddies then i will just need to go faster on the down...

Thanks Again!!!

 

[m-dub]

I've been using Gravety dropper for around 6 months and was concerned about weight. Not an issue and best upgrade ever. Ridden both XC events and shuttle runs with nothing but a grin.