Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do you determine how strong is strong enough? Let's say you are building a WFO for all purposes including XC and lift assisted downhills. If you build it up with all freeride level components, it will be excessively heavy for XC rides. On the other hand, if you land a big jump and your handlebars break off in your hands, that would not be good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
We've all wanted the same thing: a bike to do it all and do it well. When it comes to weight and XC, it comes down to how much you are willing to put up with. Ive noticed most WFO owners have a second bike for trail riding and there is a good reason for it. If you are cool with riding a 37lb bike that most likely wont be very efficient at trail riding then go for a WFO and use it wherever you please. Or, look at what riding you would do most and build for that then later on get components that you could swap for DH riding such as fork, crank, wheelset, and handlebars. Its possible to build a jack-of-all-trades bike but it wont be a master at any...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,329 Posts
Thor29 said:
How do you determine how strong is strong enough? Let's say you are building a WFO for all purposes including XC and lift assisted downhills. If you build it up with all freeride level components, it will be excessively heavy for XC rides. On the other hand, if you land a big jump and your handlebars break off in your hands, that would not be good.
Buy 2 bikes, or 2 wheelsets or a set of different bars or ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,797 Posts
Thor29 said:
Let's say you are building a WFO for all purposes including XC and lift assisted downhills.
Jack of all trades, master of none.
 

·
Its got what plants crave
Joined
·
5,933 Posts
It really depends on a lot of variables. For instance, how much do you weigh? If you're a lighter guy you can get away with riding lighter parts more aggressively than most people. If you're heavier, weight really should be secondary to durability, and is a few extra pounds REALLY going to matter to a guy who weighs 200+? There are plenty of very strong parts that don't carry a major weight penalty, you just have to do your research to find out which ones. Once you start getting into major freeride you really have to pick parts carefully, but I have been surprised how strong some of the medium duty parts actually are.
 

·
Fat & Single
Joined
·
4,155 Posts
Guys i built as light as i could AM do it all bike .... Nicolai AM , Fox 36 , Easton DH carbon bars , EX1750 wheels , SLT seat , Hope tech M4's ..... the bike was built up as it should be as an AM - Do it all bike , no weight weenie stuff where an expensive alternative was available, a bit of downhill and XC , and nearly always start from point "A" and finish there , which means as light as possible. Around 12k went into this bike , 7 months later it was sold for a Pivot 429 ..... best move i ever made.

So whatever bike you build , build it to its capability and to your riding style , if you wanna boast to your mates on how much lighter your build is then theres ... be prepared to spend some cash on wheels, tyres and seatpost ect .... wimp on weight rather than strenght is only for stupid rich or sponsored folk.
 

·
Ride More - Suffer Less
Joined
·
2,659 Posts
Jim311 said:
It really depends on a lot of variables. For instance, how much do you weigh? If you're a lighter guy you can get away with riding lighter parts more aggressively than most people. If you're heavier, weight really should be secondary to durability, and is a few extra pounds REALLY going to matter to a guy who weighs 200+? There are plenty of very strong parts that don't carry a major weight penalty, you just have to do your research to find out which ones. Once you start getting into major freeride you really have to pick parts carefully, but I have been surprised how strong some of the medium duty parts actually are.
+1 what he said...its definitely a balance. Im 240lbs and break stuff, this is my build...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
hellocook said:
not to forget you need a SS as well.

makes it 3 bikes: 1 for XC, 1 for AM/FR and 1 for XC
I do not have money or room for 3rd bike. So I thought about making my XC ride a SS but I am bit scared.

Maybe, I should pick me up a cheap 29er SS.

My XC ride is 29er and AM/FR is 26er:D
 

·
395 Fat Tire Council
Joined
·
296 Posts
calisun said:
I thought about making my XC ride a SS but I am bit scared.
Stop thinking and do it. 29ss + wfo is my two bike stable. Except for the townie. And the roadie. Still fewer bikes than their used to be though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,797 Posts
To be a bit more verbose (and a bit less sarcastic), are you trying to keep up with people who have the purpose-built bike and are really fast? If so, then consider two bikes. If it's more casual, or you're more about riding solo? Go to town with the do-all.

A dude at work rides his WFO w/ Hammershmidt + AM setup right alongside another on a weight weenie Stumpjumper. They're short rides, we aren't out there to break any records, and everyone waits at the top (or the bottom as the case may be).

The one thing that gives me pause is bike geometry. If your XC involves lots of super-technical, steep, slow grind climbs, then trying to do that on a slack AM/DH rig is a recipe for frustration. Even with an adjustable length fork, you just won't clear the stuff that you know you could with the right bike. Hell, when I went from a HT to a FS bike, I was magically clearing stuff that I couldn't dream of before. Burly AM rig? No way.

If you generally ride flowy, swoopy XC and just get used to being in the back of the group unless you are one of the most talented riders, a burly bike should work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
I have a WFO with a Dorado and it is 40lbs. It is my only bike (except for the snowbike) and I consider it a "trailbike". It is not slow up or down and I'm usually in the front of the pack on group rides and it can hang with my pro xc friends on there HIFI's. It is mostly due to the technical terrain in my area, the WFO goes straight through what everyone else goes around or slows down for. Honestly I do not feel the weight of the bike while riding and anyone who gets to test-ride it does not want to get off it. Being 6'9'' 235lbs the WFO is a great all- around bike for me and anyone who is heavy or is hard on equiptment. (10 broken frames in 8 years)

If you want to get one bike for everything it will weigh more, just build up the power and endurance to enjoy it.
 

·
6'4"-6'9" with the afro
Joined
·
194 Posts
nolan17 said:
I have a WFO with a Dorado and it is 40lbs. It is my only bike (except for the snowbike) and I consider it a "trailbike". It is not slow up or down and I'm usually in the front of the pack on group rides and it can hang with my pro xc friends on there HIFI's. It is mostly due to the technical terrain in my area, the WFO goes straight through what everyone else goes around or slows down for. Honestly I do not feel the weight of the bike while riding and anyone who gets to test-ride it does not want to get off it. Being 6'9'' 235lbs the WFO is a great all- around bike for me and anyone who is heavy or is hard on equiptment. (10 broken frames in 8 years)

If you want to get one bike for everything it will weigh more, just build up the power and endurance to enjoy it.
Post some pics of your WFO w/ the Dorado! That sounds hot!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
hellocook said:
not to forget you need a SS as well.

makes it 3 bikes: 1 for XC, 1 for AM/FR and 1 for XC
Wish I could keep it to 3 bikes.
1 for DH race,
1 for FR/AM
1 for DJ
1 29'er SS
1 XC bike
1 commuter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
schneidie said:
Wish I could keep it to 3 bikes.
1 for DH race,
1 for FR/AM
1 for DJ
1 29'er SS
1 XC bike
1 commuter
Wow, that's a lot of bikes.

My 29er HT is for XC, Commuter, beater and SS if I don't change gears:madman:

I am highly considering getting me a 29 SS as beater and more street bike. I can find on for $200 to $300 used. Now, I just need to justify my 3rd to my wife:eek:

I don't think there is all around bike that can do it all at it's best. There will be compromises but if you are okay with that, it becomes your all around bike. I can call my 08 Enduro all around bike cause it can claim, take some beating on DH and do some other things but by all means it's not best at everything. Not best XC bike with weight of 32lb.
 

·
Underskilled
Joined
·
4,644 Posts
I have a bike that does it all, and to help, it is a WFO.

You just have to be smart on your component choices.

A Dorado on front is not only the best option for DH, but has an effective low speed compression circuit (meaning if you sit and spin, you are effectivly riding a rigid.
Same with the rear can, if you have a coil on there you are stuffed, but put on an RP23 and get it tuned well you have a bike that both excels on the DH but pedals like a race bike.

Sure the bike will weigh more, but that is not important if you don't race.

I just change the wheels and settings depending on what I am riding.

For mon-fri I have a pair of 'road' wheels with schwalbe Big Apples on, I put the stem full forwards and drop 2cm (adjustable stem on dorado). I put on propedal 3 and wind in the compression dampening on the fork fully.

I have fun racing lyca roadies, and take more than take me!

For the weekend, the big wheels go on, the bars get closer and higher the propedal goes down to 2.

I now have a bike that I demolish everyone i ride with on the DH.

Atlas cranks, ea50 bars both very light for their strength.

It is an awesome win win bike, if only Niner had an anno option that was puppy **** colour.

P x
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Obviously a 2nd set of wheels for downhill would be nice to have if a WFO was your only FS bike. What I am wondering about is stuff like cranks, handlebars, and stems. I am planning on moving parts from my RIP9 to a WFO and getting rid of my freeride bike (SC Bullit). The RIP9 has mostly XC level parts on it. For instance, it has a Thomson X4 stem, Salsa Pro Moto flat bars, and RaceFace Evolve XC cranks I'd rather not swap out these parts unless I have to. The only way to really know that they aren't strong enough is if I actually break them. Where is that line?

Also, I too am interested in opinions about the RP23 vs the DHX Air.
 

·
Underskilled
Joined
·
4,644 Posts
From what I have heard I would avoid the DHX, it is supposed to blow through mid travel and push will not touch them.

The RP23 is an immensly capable unit, Fox rates them from XC to FR, so they are not just XC. Add a bit of pushing to the shock and you have a capable performer.

As you have a lot of travel IMO you will be putting less shock force into the bars/cranks, so should be OK.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top