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Hey guys, so my Race Face AR30 back wheel has a tad bit of side to side wobble. I could provide a video later today if needed. I am wondering what magnitude a wobble would have to be for it to go from being “fine” to being something I should true? I actually believe the rim came like this when I got my Canyon Spectral.
 

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If it's easily noticable I'd true it. Out of true rims are almost always due to uneven spoke tension which makes for a weaker wheel.

I suppose canyon should do a better job since they're direct to consumer but it's common for most other brands to need some touching up during assembly.
 

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Proper tension is the key to a strong wheel that will stay true. If the tension between multiple spokes is way off when the wheel is true it's time for a new hoop. Carbon hoops can be used over and over again where as aluminum will eventually become unable to get true with even tension.
 

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I true my disc brake wheels as though I were running v-brakes. in other words, as perfect as possible

often hit 40 or 50 on road segments and smooth is where it's at
 

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If the tension between multiple spokes is way off when the wheel is true it's time for a new hoop.
That may be true if your wheel was properly tensioned to start with. It's been my recent experience that a wheel that was bought true, but with spoke tensions all over the place, can be brought to a more equally tensioned state without losing its trueness. It's tedious, but it can be done.
 

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For a new wheel that has spoke tensions all over the place I would release the tension on all of the spokes and start over. What I was referring to is an aluminum wheel that has been ridden and damaged at some point. Once an aluminum hoop has been deformed in some way it's very difficult to get it true and round with spoke tensions even, whereas carbon has no memory like aluminum so retruing is pretty easy unless there is damage to the carbon weave.
 
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