Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm currently running a PWood/WI freewheel setup on the back of my SS. I would like to move toward more interchangeability with my wheelsets and am thinking of selling it and using a standard rear hub with spacers a cog. How much wheel strength will I give up going from a non-disc SS hub to a standard (gear and disc capable) hub. I tend to be pretty hard on wheels and enjoy the "set it and forget it" aspect of the Wood/WI system I have now. Has anyone moved from one to other and have some experience to share? Thanks.
 

·
Bite Me.
Joined
·
4,531 Posts
Your rim and spoke choice is more important than the dish issue. A no-dish wheel is stronger, all other parts being the same, but a conventional dished wheel can easily be built as strong as you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,764 Posts
I replaced a SS hub with a 9 speed hub(s) and didn't notice a difference. I was using a Bontrager Duster OSB 29er rim and a Halo Supa Drive, then King ISO hub. The stock hub was an evenly spaced bontrager hub that actually had more spoke imbalance than the 9 speed hubs, due to the OSB rim. I'm around 165 and ride the bike as a SS and 1x9.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,039 Posts
cutthroat said:
Your rim and spoke choice is more important than the dish issue. A no-dish wheel is stronger, all other parts being the same, but a conventional dished wheel can easily be built as strong as you need.
there is a lot of truth in those two sentences
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
still an open question...how much stronger is a non dished wheel, or how much strength do you give up going dished......give us percentages or proportions based on physics or testing.

i have both types of wheels and have wondered the same thing.

another consideration is the aesthetics of a non dished wheel hooked to a single cog.
 

·
And I'm out.
Joined
·
506 Posts
First question:

What do you mean by "stronger"?
If you mean less likely to bend then the answer is self-evident: a consistent, even tension, well built wheel using a 32mm offset to one side will have 1) different spoke tension than its opposite side by 1.5 to 2 full turns= .75 to 1.0mm more (or less) thread taken up and subsequently 2) higher tension on the drive-side by 150-200 Newtons for a SS and up to 1000 Newtons difference for an 11speed rear wheel.

Didn't I say it was self-evident?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
just build the wheelset on the non-ss hub with slightly stronger spokes/rim to compensate for the changeover.

In theoretical terms--- SS dishless is stronger if all things(spokes/rim) are the same.

Generally tho- SSers build the wheels slightly lighter to capitalize on the ability to lower weight and still get the same strength as their geared wheels.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top