Your rim and spoke choice is more important than the dish issue. A no-dish wheel is stronger, all other parts being the same, but a conventional dished wheel can easily be built as strong as you need.
How much stronger is a wheel with no dish?
I'm currently running a PWood/WI freewheel setup on the back of my SS. I would like to move toward more interchangeability with my wheelsets and am thinking of selling it and using a standard rear hub with spacers a cog. How much wheel strength will I give up going from a non-disc SS hub to a standard (gear and disc capable) hub. I tend to be pretty hard on wheels and enjoy the "set it and forget it" aspect of the Wood/WI system I have now. Has anyone moved from one to other and have some experience to share? Thanks.
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I replaced a SS hub with a 9 speed hub(s) and didn't notice a difference. I was using a Bontrager Duster OSB 29er rim and a Halo Supa Drive, then King ISO hub. The stock hub was an evenly spaced bontrager hub that actually had more spoke imbalance than the 9 speed hubs, due to the OSB rim. I'm around 165 and ride the bike as a SS and 1x9.
there is a lot of truth in those two sentencescutthroat said:Your rim and spoke choice is more important than the dish issue. A no-dish wheel is stronger, all other parts being the same, but a conventional dished wheel can easily be built as strong as you need.
still an open question...how much stronger is a non dished wheel, or how much strength do you give up going dished......give us percentages or proportions based on physics or testing.
i have both types of wheels and have wondered the same thing.
another consideration is the aesthetics of a non dished wheel hooked to a single cog.
i have both types of wheels and have wondered the same thing.
another consideration is the aesthetics of a non dished wheel hooked to a single cog.
First question:
What do you mean by "stronger"?
If you mean less likely to bend then the answer is self-evident: a consistent, even tension, well built wheel using a 32mm offset to one side will have 1) different spoke tension than its opposite side by 1.5 to 2 full turns= .75 to 1.0mm more (or less) thread taken up and subsequently 2) higher tension on the drive-side by 150-200 Newtons for a SS and up to 1000 Newtons difference for an 11speed rear wheel.
Didn't I say it was self-evident?
What do you mean by "stronger"?
If you mean less likely to bend then the answer is self-evident: a consistent, even tension, well built wheel using a 32mm offset to one side will have 1) different spoke tension than its opposite side by 1.5 to 2 full turns= .75 to 1.0mm more (or less) thread taken up and subsequently 2) higher tension on the drive-side by 150-200 Newtons for a SS and up to 1000 Newtons difference for an 11speed rear wheel.
Didn't I say it was self-evident?
just build the wheelset on the non-ss hub with slightly stronger spokes/rim to compensate for the changeover.
In theoretical terms--- SS dishless is stronger if all things(spokes/rim) are the same.
Generally tho- SSers build the wheels slightly lighter to capitalize on the ability to lower weight and still get the same strength as their geared wheels.
In theoretical terms--- SS dishless is stronger if all things(spokes/rim) are the same.
Generally tho- SSers build the wheels slightly lighter to capitalize on the ability to lower weight and still get the same strength as their geared wheels.
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