[bloater27]

looking at geting a 5.5 but wondering how much abuse it can take? would it be up to some small freeride and dh duties?
just that i want a do it all bike that i can ride all day.

 

[SuperD]

Sounds to me like you should be looking at a 6.6...

 

[bloater27]

thats what i kinda thought.

 

[matthew]

5,5 very racey geometry
6.6 much better choice, depending on your fork choice can be XC too FR
also depends on your weight and riding style

 

[Paul B]

Having broken a chainstay and a main pivot bolt so far on my 5.5 during moderately aggressive (i.e. air under 2') riding, I'm now wishing the 6.6 had been an option when my budget allowed for an ultimate bling bike.

The 5.5 is much more XCish than you might expect. If you already have strong skills, the steepish head angle will feel good because it'll climb better than probably all the rest of the bikes in this category (light all-mountain, i.e. the 5spot, 575, Blur LT, etc.). If you're used to the safety of a slack head angle -- as I was -- then the 5.5 will feel sketchy on descents.

If your definition of "do-everything all-day riding" includes dh and hucking, the 5.5 isn't your bike. I'd look at either the 6.6 or a VPX with a very lightweight build.

p.

 

[DIRTJUNKIE]

Having broken a chainstay and a main pivot bolt so far on my 5.5 during moderately aggressive (i.e. air under 2') riding, I'm now wishing the 6.6 had been an option when my budget allowed for an ultimate bling bike.

The 5.5 is much more XCish than you might expect. If you already have strong skills, the steepish head angle will feel good because it'll climb better than probably all the rest of the bikes in this category (light all-mountain, i.e. the 5spot, 575, Blur LT, etc.). If you're used to the safety of a slack head angle -- as I was -- then the 5.5 will feel sketchy on descents.

If your definition of "do-everything all-day riding" includes dh and hucking, the 5.5 isn't your bike. I'd look at either the 6.6 or a VPX with a very lightweight build.

p.

Great input but trying to keep a longer travel bike such as a 6.6 light and still durable enough for hucking and downhill duties can be a problem. Instead of breaking frames you end up breaking parts.This is one of the biggest dellemmas of todays most popular style of riding.There is no such thing as a lightweight long travel all mountain build. I think the 6.6 is the bike for him, although I wouldnt go to extreme in picking out lightweight parts and underbuilding what that frame is designed to handle.

 

[Paul B]

Great input but trying to keep a longer travel bike such as a 6.6 light and still durable enough for hucking and downhill duties can be a problem. Instead of breaking frames you end up breaking parts.This is one of the biggest dellemmas of todays most popular style of riding.There is no such thing as a lightweight long travel all mountain build. I think the 6.6 is the bike for him, although I wouldnt go to extreme in picking out lightweight parts and underbuilding what that frame is designed to handle.

Totally agree with this assessment: Given a choice between a lighter 6.6 frame with burly parts and a heavier VPX frame with lightweight parts, I'd go with the 6.6. I'll bet the final build weight is within 3 lbs. either way. After that it's just a matter of geometry preferences.

p.

 

[bloater27]

6.6 its going to be, just need to finish building up my hardtail then i'll be getting a 6.6

 

[Ole]

no but yes but no

The 5.5 is much more XCish than you might expect. If you already have strong skills, the steepish head angle will feel good because it'll climb better than probably all the rest of the bikes in this category (light all-mountain, i.e. the 5spot, 575, Blur LT, etc.). If you're used to the safety of a slack head angle -- as I was -- then the 5.5 will feel sketchy on descents..

I was of the same opinion until I changed forks. I switched from a Fox Vanilla 130 RLC to a PACE RC40 Fighter, which is 20mm longer, and has 150mm travel. The bike was compeltely transformed! I could still climb everything I could before, but the steep, slow downhills became much easier!

Now I've got a 6.6 set up with the same fork, and it seems good so far.

Ole.

 

[awai04]

Hey Ole, how about a comparison between the 5.5 and 6.6, given that you have the same components? I'm intrigued with the 6.6 given all the hype as the new model, but somehow I think that my 5.5 will be more than enough for me.

 

[Ole]

Hey Ole, how about a comparison between the 5.5 and 6.6, given that you have the same components? I'm intrigued with the 6.6 given all the hype as the new model, but somehow I think that my 5.5 will be more than enough for me.

So far I've managed to set the 6.6 up so that it feels pretty much like my 5.5 when I pedal and push in curves, but yet it has a lot more travel when I hit large stuff. The head angle is around a degree slacker with the same fork, and the seat angle is steeper, I needed a setback seatpost with the 520mm Pace fork. I run a custom tuned DHX Coil, with a CCDB on the way.

Unfortunately, a stubborn cold has only allowed me one proper ride on the 6.6 so far, but I 've gotten som spend some time playing around with the settings just outside where I live.

Ole.

 

[awai04]

Ah, thanks Ole. Any difference in the weight (pros/cons) and its effect on pedaling and stability downhill?

 

[Zuke]

Yeah, how much does your 6.6 weigh? I've got my 5.5 at 29lbs using decently stout equipment. Nothing really lightweight except King hubs and Eggbeaters...