I am not trying to make a statement, just want to see ss builds and their weight.1) chainline is adjustable. 2) stiff frame could ride like crap. 3) stiff wheelset could ride like crap.I.E. I run V-brakes, a guy will pull up and tell how much better his disc brakes are... I am 126lbs. and he is 185lbs so who has better stopping performance.Too many factors. I do like IF. 20.5lbs. you must not have a suspension fork giving size of frame.rogueturtle said:Its not so much about the weight as it is:
-the stiffness of the frame
-the stiffness of the wheelset
these three factors outweigh the actual weight which is fairly light given its size.....
IndyFab SS- 25.5"tt - 20.5lbs
Hi, are you running a small block 8 rear and Nevegal front? How is that combo working out? How is the cush/grip/rolling resistance on the front? How does the rear hold in climbs and corners? I was thinking of putting these two together. Sorry for all the questions, I have a rigid steel 29er as well so they should perform similar on my bike.7daysaweek said:Vassago Jabberwocky (18") ~22 lbs / Rider (68") ~170 lbs
Your large strong steel or Ti frame,stiff wheelset,not the lightest susp. fork @ 20.5 lbs. You have to have some crazy light stuff or a very optimistic scale.rogueturtle said:IndyFab SS- 25.5"tt - 20.5lbs
I like the combination a lot. I run about 25 psi in the front and 30 in the rear (tubed) and I rarely have grip issues... only on steep stuff with pine straw (which is never good). The cush in the front is surprisingly good. I'm only on a 2.2 Nevegal and it feels pretty good (with carbon bars and fork). The Nevegal corners amazingly well and I've never had either tire slip out on me unexpectedly. I would definitely recommend this combination for pretty much any kind of riding. I've liked it no matter what I've ridden and the speed of the small block on the back more than makes up for any small amount of grip you might lose running it instead of a knobby. Good luck and enjoy.Pmac83 said:Hi, are you running a small block 8 rear and Nevegal front? How is that combo working out? How is the cush/grip/rolling resistance on the front? How does the rear hold in climbs and corners? I was thinking of putting these two together. Sorry for all the questions, I have a rigid steel 29er as well so they should perform similar on my bike.
And related. I stripped down a frame and had it repainted, the paint added nearly a half pound to the bare frame. Maybe I shouldn't have let my brother try out his new paint gun on my bike, though not many people have a Ferrari Red (Rosso Corsa) bike.Sparticus said:
Dayamn, that bike is bew tee ful!rogueturtle said:hey-no grey-bashing.........
I was running a Phantom Ti rear hub (135grams) with a White Ind. Ti eno for a while. Real Racing levers are very light. Front hub was a Tune 66gram. I ran that combo for 3 years on my old SS an then the IF........but recently switched it out for a King setup for ease of gearing changes. (the Phantom Ti hub/eno ti combo is far more durable and lighter than anything ive used to date) Dt Aerolites and Dt rims. Eggbeater single ti. Thompson masterpiece post. Prototype specialized enduros-lighter versions that didnt make it to market-but made it to my frame. Saddle is custom drilled and lightened- 3yrs and running-(if you are sitting- you probably took the easy route)-forgot what it weighs--but is definitely light w/nice flex in just the right spots.sevencycle said:Your large strong steel or Ti frame,stiff wheelset,not the lightest susp. fork @ 20.5 lbs. You have to have some crazy light stuff or a very optimistic scale.
My small Steel Kona Unit 3.7lb. frame with Fox 80x,DT 240 hubs,Alum 20t cog,Mavic 517's,cross 2 revolution spokes,Easton carbon SL 25.8 bars,Easton ec70 post,SLR saddle, Avid Ti V-brakes,Conti 2.3 tires,Stan tubeless,XTR 170 crankset,Spot 34t ring,sram hollow pin chain,eggbeater ss pedals and Ti hardware is 21.2lbs .