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Its not so much about the weight as it is:

-the stiffness of the frame
-the stiffness of the wheelset
-chainline

these three factors outweigh the actual weight which is fairly light given its size.....

IndyFab SS- 25.5"tt - 20.5lbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
dont need a SS lesson

rogueturtle said:
Its not so much about the weight as it is:

-the stiffness of the frame
-the stiffness of the wheelset
-chainline

these three factors outweigh the actual weight which is fairly light given its size.....

IndyFab SS- 25.5"tt - 20.5lbs
I am not trying to make a statement, just want to see ss builds and their weight.1) chainline is adjustable. 2) stiff frame could ride like crap. 3) stiff wheelset could ride like crap.I.E. I run V-brakes, a guy will pull up and tell how much better his disc brakes are... I am 126lbs. and he is 185lbs so who has better stopping performance.Too many factors. I do like IF. 20.5lbs. you must not have a suspension fork giving size of frame.
 

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So whats the point in looking simply at the weight of a bike? Every time i see a 13-15lb blingle-bike post- i dont even read past the first thread due to the fact that its totally not applicable --ie i could crack it into bits in about 5minutes.

Wouldnt it be more interesting to see what people weigh and how they correlate their bikes weight/setup to that?

My 20.5lb IF runs a Pushed Foxf80x. Not the most plush fork out there- but certainly alot faster than running rigid with minimal weight penalty. Im 225lbs and after a multitude of frames finally have the weight/strength/stiffness fairly dialed.

At 126lbs you could easily be on an 18lb bike and still have all the ride quality/rigidity/durability you wanted-- of course thats going full custom....but at 126lbs ---a 3lb difference would be noticable. (thats equivalent to me dropping 5lbs.)
 

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Your tires

7daysaweek said:
Vassago Jabberwocky (18") ~22 lbs / Rider (68") ~170 lbs
Hi, are you running a small block 8 rear and Nevegal front? How is that combo working out? How is the cush/grip/rolling resistance on the front? How does the rear hold in climbs and corners? I was thinking of putting these two together. Sorry for all the questions, I have a rigid steel 29er as well so they should perform similar on my bike.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
what is your build

rogueturtle said:
IndyFab SS- 25.5"tt - 20.5lbs
Your large strong steel or Ti frame,stiff wheelset,not the lightest susp. fork @ 20.5 lbs. You have to have some crazy light stuff or a very optimistic scale.
My small Steel Kona Unit 3.7lb. frame with Fox 80x,DT 240 hubs,Alum 20t cog,Mavic 517's,cross 2 revolution spokes,Easton carbon SL 25.8 bars,Easton ec70 post,SLR saddle, Avid Ti V-brakes,Conti 2.3 tires,Stan tubeless,XTR 170 crankset,Spot 34t ring,sram hollow pin chain,eggbeater ss pedals and Ti hardware is 21.2lbs .
 

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Pmac83 said:
Hi, are you running a small block 8 rear and Nevegal front? How is that combo working out? How is the cush/grip/rolling resistance on the front? How does the rear hold in climbs and corners? I was thinking of putting these two together. Sorry for all the questions, I have a rigid steel 29er as well so they should perform similar on my bike.

Thanks
I like the combination a lot. I run about 25 psi in the front and 30 in the rear (tubed) and I rarely have grip issues... only on steep stuff with pine straw (which is never good). The cush in the front is surprisingly good. I'm only on a 2.2 Nevegal and it feels pretty good (with carbon bars and fork). The Nevegal corners amazingly well and I've never had either tire slip out on me unexpectedly. I would definitely recommend this combination for pretty much any kind of riding. I've liked it no matter what I've ridden and the speed of the small block on the back more than makes up for any small amount of grip you might lose running it instead of a knobby. Good luck and enjoy.
 

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Sparticus said:
Weight is just as important as color.

--Sparty
And related. I stripped down a frame and had it repainted, the paint added nearly a half pound to the bare frame. Maybe I shouldn't have let my brother try out his new paint gun on my bike, though not many people have a Ferrari Red (Rosso Corsa) bike.
 

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rogueturtle said:
hey-no grey-bashing.........
Dayamn, that bike is bew tee ful!

My On One I believe is in the 22-23 lbs. range. I weigh 155-160. Fox F80X, Race Face everything else, SRAM v-brakes. Rides like butter (although I wish I had the F100X). Did D-ville XC on it one year.

I contacted Curtlo when I was looking to go custom and he said at my weight I could go 3lbs. frame and it would ride well. He also suggested the eccentric BB but that added some weight to the frame.

I used to run a converted Specialized M2 and I believe that was a sub 21 lbs. bike. I've ridden a Merlin custom Ti SS that a friend owned - I think it was an 18 lbs. bike. Seemed pretty whippy to me. Skinny tires didn't help I'm sure.
 

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sevencycle said:
Your large strong steel or Ti frame,stiff wheelset,not the lightest susp. fork @ 20.5 lbs. You have to have some crazy light stuff or a very optimistic scale.
My small Steel Kona Unit 3.7lb. frame with Fox 80x,DT 240 hubs,Alum 20t cog,Mavic 517's,cross 2 revolution spokes,Easton carbon SL 25.8 bars,Easton ec70 post,SLR saddle, Avid Ti V-brakes,Conti 2.3 tires,Stan tubeless,XTR 170 crankset,Spot 34t ring,sram hollow pin chain,eggbeater ss pedals and Ti hardware is 21.2lbs .
I was running a Phantom Ti rear hub (135grams) with a White Ind. Ti eno for a while. Real Racing levers are very light. Front hub was a Tune 66gram. I ran that combo for 3 years on my old SS an then the IF........but recently switched it out for a King setup for ease of gearing changes. (the Phantom Ti hub/eno ti combo is far more durable and lighter than anything ive used to date) Dt Aerolites and Dt rims. Eggbeater single ti. Thompson masterpiece post. Prototype specialized enduros-lighter versions that didnt make it to market-but made it to my frame. Saddle is custom drilled and lightened- 3yrs and running-(if you are sitting- you probably took the easy route)-forgot what it weighs--but is definitely light w/nice flex in just the right spots.

Its also the little things. If you notice in the IndyFAB pic- the rear cable routing is on the right hand side of the toptube--thereby shortening the housing and not crossing in front of the headtube ---the Avid Ultimate is reversible to allow this to happen. Im a bit ocd when it comes to cable routing as seen on my hardtail:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Very cool, you do have all the weight weenie goodies.Excuse my doubt as most everybody's bike gains a few pounds when it hits the scale.My Kona King w/gears ate into my low weight budget$. Its 22.5lbs dual suspension but I ride my SS 80% of the time.Riding SS's steady since 1997.In Colorado my gearing is 34x20
 

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The best weight weenie thing i could do would be to actually clean my bike........

as it stands i end up doing it only about once a year.......so my avg bike weight is probably closer to 22lbs 364days per year..........with one day having a "magical" one pound drop making the next few rides abnormally nice.:D

That coupled with a properly timed 1 lb dump...............and i almost seem to be floating down the trails.
 
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