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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello, first off I do not have alot of money. I am 5'9", this upcoming bike would be my third bike (16 years old). To give you an idea of what my expectations are, I have a "Mens" Pacific bike somewhat like this(dual suspention): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ding=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&v=glance&n=3375251

Now it has served me well. Recently (since last summer) I have been riding about everyday. I have decided it is not worth the fixes and a used bike would be the same if not cheaper than fixing my current bike. I ride mostly on pavement with the occasonal ride though soft dirt; and I ride for about two hours.

So I live in Albuqurque, New Mexico. So I have been looking at craigslist. I am thinking I will just post up bikes and you guys can help my critique them.

http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/bik/171837176.html

OR possibly

http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/bik/180567208.html

What frame should I start looking at (5'9")? When you get "fitted" at a bike shop is it really them finding the right frame for you, or is there more involved?

EDIT: I keep finding more bikes, I am just clancing at these; maybe someone will see something special about these (I would presume the top two that I linked are better?)

http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/bik/184035326.html
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/bik/178079098.html
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/bik/177262300.html

Also I am looking to sell my sister's bike. It is a Cro-moly frame so what advantages does it offer over aluminum? Is there a reason I dont see this on bike shop bike's, only on older stuff (or am I not looking hard enough)?
 

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Your Pacific bike isn't worth much and you mention what your sisters bike is made of but not the brand. That'd be a help. There is no advantage to steel over aluminum. Not with well made bikes any way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
fred3 said:
Your Pacific bike isn't worth much and you mention what your sisters bike is made of but not the brand. That'd be a help. There is no advantage to steel over aluminum. Not with well made bikes any way.
"I have decided it is not worth the fixes and a used bike would be the same if not cheaper than fixing my current bike."

I agree my bike is not worth much. My sisters bike is a Motiv, but I was asking because I was curious as to how a Cro-Molly frame vs. an Aluminum frame. The last two bikes I linked also say: "CrMo"

Any idea on what frame is a good size to start with? 17", 19"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
After checking out my local bike shops it seems there is not much to "fitting", correct? I perfered a 17" frame on a Hardrock, and a 19" on a Sedona.

I am strongly thinking about going used (close to new) and just taking it to the local bike shop for tune up and what not, bad idea, good idea; please give me feedback that should not cost alot(the tune up), right?

Like I am sure I can get him to lower the price, how do components sound on it? Are they better than an entry hardrock: http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/bik/182882541.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any help that Marin looks intreging. Please help.

How is this in comparason to the Marin: http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Bike/product_18564.shtml

Any answers to my previous questions?
"After checking out my local bike shops it seems there is not much to "fitting", correct?"

"I am strongly thinking about going used (close to new) and just taking it to the local bike shop for tune up and what not, bad idea, good idea; please give me feedback that should not cost alot(the tune up), right?"

"Like I am sure I can get him to lower the price, how do components sound on it? Are they better than an entry hardrock: http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/bik/182882541.html"
 

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First of all how much money are you willing to spend? What type of riding will you be doing? For your size a 17"- 19", but like you said different types of bikes have diiferent sizes, first of all stand over the bike and if you have a inch or so gap between your crotch area and the top tube it should suffice, anything closer than that beware (the family jewels your messin with when it comes to hopping off the bike. Beware of the buying things off craigslist if that seller doesn't have pics beware, and if you decide to buy make sure that seller can send you a cuurent photo with like your name or e-mail address in the photo to verify he has the bike and see if you can pick it up and do a hand to hand exchange, take an adult with you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanx for the advice on the top tube :thumbsup: . I have his number, I would not buy it till I can ride it and see how it feels. I will let you guys know how it works out. Are the components good or bad on this bike (considering my other options are like a hardrock, trek 4300)? If I go used it has to be a good deal, otherwise what is the point? And if I go new my price goes to entry level-Hardrock, Trek 4300, Giant Rincon, ect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
fred3 said:
It's not about one size being better to start with then another. It's about what fits and to know that you have to know 1) what a proper fit is 2) and what feels right to you
I dont know why your post is out of order it should be post #10. And this post should be post #11.

This is giving me an idea about sizing:
http://www.ibexbikes.com/sizing_index.html

The only thing I did not get is this:
"Mountain Bikes: For Mountain Bikes we recommend 2" to 4" of clearance....."

What do they mean by "clearance"? At top tube?

The components that the Marin (that I linked) comes with fairly crummy compentents, CORRECT? I mean I would not mind paying $200 if the bike is better than say an entry bike $300, but if it is the same then it is not worth buying used.
 

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Everything you wanted to know and asked :)

To determine fit go to www.wrenchscience.com

[email protected] This bike was for sale in June for $500. It is worth $200 to $250. I assume it did not sell because of the asking price. I think it would be a great bike for you. It is a large but the toptube is short. You would have to buy a shorter stem. (do not use as a mountain bike with the 150mm stem on it - you will fly over the handlebars)

It has excellent components and is very light compared to anything you could buy in this price range.

The Marin has a nice frame but as you point out the components are nothing special.

Good Luck:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Poser said:
To determine fit go to www.wrenchscience.com

[email protected] This bike was for sale in June for $500. It is worth $200 to $250. I assume it did not sell because of the asking price. I think it would be a great bike for you. It is a large but the toptube is short. You would have to buy a shorter stem. (do not use as a mountain bike with the 150mm stem on it - you will fly over the handlebars)

It has excellent components and is very light compared to anything you could buy in this price range.

The Marin has a nice frame but as you point out the components are nothing special.

Good Luck:)
Thank You VERY MUCH for the reply it was EXTREAMLY helpful. So is this your bike that is on craigslist or how did you find it? The stem is what connects the fork to the handel bars, right; how do you know it is 150mm? Again Thanx, I just emailed the person about this bike.
Any idea on how this bike would compare to (frame wise, component wise): http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Bike/product_18564.shtml
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Bike/product_18760.shtml (I know this is dual suspention, the only thing I am worried about is weight, the fact of rear shock for climbing [hills in New Mexico], and if it has stock shocks it seems that the stock shocks are high maintence.)
 

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. So is this your bike that is on craigslist or how did you find it?

If it was my bike I would not have said it wasnot worth the $500.
I looked at old ads in the Alburqueque Craigslist. (Wouldn't normally do this but you said you were 16 and I wanted to help.)

The stem is what connects the fork to the handel bars, right; how do you know it is 150mm? I just looked at the stem and am familiar with older Cannondales. I could be wrong.

Any idea on how this bike would compare to (frame wise, component wise): http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Bike/product_18564.shtml
This model is much lower quality than the one I recommended. Much lower quality components. I think the frame is heavier
Don't even think about the Pro-Flex unless you have hidden money. It will definately bob while riding.and need maintenance.

Today there is nothing on ebay that would interest you in Albuequerque on Ebay. But look on Ebay for complete bicycles and then on the side you can put in your zipcode and get only auctions near you.

Good Luck David

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Poser said:
. So is this your bike that is on craigslist or how did you find it?

If it was my bike I would not have said it wasnot worth the $500.
I looked at old ads in the Alburqueque Craigslist. (Wouldn't normally do this but you said you were 16 and I wanted to help.)

The stem is what connects the fork to the handel bars, right; how do you know it is 150mm? I just looked at the stem and am familiar with older Cannondales. I could be wrong.

Any idea on how this bike would compare to (frame wise, component wise): http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Bike/product_18564.shtml
This model is much lower quality than the one I recommended. Much lower quality components. I think the frame is heavier
Don't even think about the Pro-Flex unless you have hidden money. It will definately bob while riding.and need maintenance.

Today there is nothing on ebay that would interest you in Albuequerque on Ebay. But look on Ebay for complete bicycles and then on the side you can put in your zipcode and get only auctions near you.

Good Luck David

Good Luck
Thank You very much David! I think there was a misunderstanding. I thought you were saying that the Marin was posted a month ago and I did not see it. I also did not know how to look up the link you gave me (I did figure it out about 5mins later). I had edited my post since it was the canondale but somehow missed that part and did not edit it.
I was not questioning your knowledge I was just curious on how you could tell it was 150mm.

I agree it seems the components are very good on the Cannondale. I saw LX and XT derailers on $800+ bikes today.

I have been checking ebay, cragislist, and my paper everyday incase something good comes up.

Using the wrenchscience site (thanx again) the site says I need a frame "16in Center-to-Top / 15in Center-to-Center", which seems odd since I was happy with a 17in locally, and could maybe get away with a 19in.
Here is the rest of the numbers:
Your Overall Reach is :: 70.04cm Center-to-Center
Your Recommended Saddle Height is :: 66.16cm

Still waiting for the reply from the seller, man I am inpatient!

Thanx again, David that is exactly the help I was looking for.
 

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hope this helps

Numbers that will be important from wrenchscience will be Standover height (basically inseam minus at least 2 inches hopefully 3 or more. Top Tube length. Hopefully the rest can be dialed in by stem length and seat rail position on the seatpost. You probalby are going to want a stem length to between 90 to 110mm.

I am guessing but I think a 17in bike or a toptube no larger than 23inches will fit you best. The only reason I thought the older Cannondale would fit you well is because the toptube is about 22.5, the rest of the reach is obtained by the absurdly long stem. I hope your inseam is long enough to give you sufficent standover height (the top bar being at least 2 inches from your perinum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Poser said:
Numbers that will be important from wrenchscience will be Standover height (basically inseam minus at least 2 inches hopefully 3 or more. Top Tube length. Hopefully the rest can be dialed in by stem length and seat rail position on the seatpost. You probalby are going to want a stem length to between 90 to 110mm.

I am guessing but I think a 17in bike or a toptube no larger than 23inches will fit you best. The only reason I thought the older Cannondale would fit you well is because the toptube is about 22.5, the rest of the reach is obtained by the absurdly long stem. I hope your inseam is long enough to give you sufficent standover height (the top bar being at least 2 inches from your perinum.
Inseam=29.5in

I am sorry if I am a complete n00b, but the top tube is from where to where? Seat post to fork post, correct?

Thank You very much. So do the sellers on cragislist usually delete the post if they have sold it? What is your oppion on if this will fit me?
 

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Now we know why Wrenchscience reommended a 15in

frame. That being said, I think you should avoid any bike larger than a 17in frame unless it have freak measurements like an older large Cannondale with a 22.5 toptube. A modern large XC bike will have a 23.5 to 24.25 top tube

To measure inseam stick a thin book to the top of your crotch on the side of your balls and have someone else measure the height from floor to top of book. Let us say that is 29.5, with shoes that is probably at least 30.25. while having 1.25inches of margin is not good according to generally accepted fitting principles, I personally think this is ok. You are only 16 and will soon grow taller, and the chances of falling with the bike perpendicular to the ground is unlikely but possible.

I think the older Cannondale Large is close to 29" standover. The Standover will be affected by the profile of the tires on the bike. This bike may not be the good suggestion that I thought it was before I knew your standover height.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanx again for the advice I truly do apreciate all the great help :thumbsup: .

When I test rode the 19" KHS I did not feel to close to the top tube. I will go and test ride a 19" again now that I know what to look for. The main thing when it comes to fit is how the standover of the bike is compared to the inseam. And the rest, we have some flexablitiy with adjustments, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well yeah a 19" wont work the toptube is to high (it is still useable but not very comfirtable because I am streched out). I tryed a Jamis Cross Country today (was impressive!, except for weight). But you said the Cannondale had a different measurement before, or something? So the Cannondale may still work?

No answer yet so I am still playing the waiting game for that Cannondale. I am starting to wonder if I should go with a new Trek 4300 or something simular.
 

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Standover height is with your feet on the ground

how close is the top bar.

We have some flexablitiy with adjustments with the toptube but nevertheless we want a stem between 90 mm and 110mm. Some would say 120mm. Toptube length is normally the most critical measurement for bike purchase.

When I test rode the 19" KHS I did not feel to close to the top tube. I will go and test ride a 19" again now that I know what to look for. The main thing when it comes to fit is how the standover of the bike is compared to the inseam. And the rest, we have some flexablitiy with adjustments, right?[/QUOTE]
 
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