Virtually meaningless. I did notice a big difference changing out a steel 5lb rigid fork to a 1.5lb CF rigid fork, much easier to loft the front wheel on my fatbike...but for all suspension forks, it means nothing, the quality of damping and construction is far more important. The higher end forks with more serviceable systems that actually work in varied terrain mean a lot more than saving a little bit of weight. Usually the poor damping is what limits you as you try to go faster, the ride gets rougher and you get out of control.
How important is fork weight
Hi,
I am working on upgrading to a FS from a 20+ y/o HT. I am pretty keen on the Fezzari Wiki Peak, but was comparing the components on the next level up (Abajo Peak). One of the biggest standouts between the two is the forks. The Wiki has a Suntour XCR Air 34mm which weights 2300g, whereas the Abajo comes with an X-Fusion McQueen at 2000g.
This got me wondering how much one would notice that difference, esp. on a fork? Seems like the wheels and forks would be a good place to try to save some weight..
Does anyone a thoughts on the impact of the different forks? I know that in general the XCR gets poo-pooed, but I don't it's hard to know if it really matters.
I'm somewhat stuck in the analysis phase of "for a little bit more $ I can get....".
Any thoughts appreciated.
I am working on upgrading to a FS from a 20+ y/o HT. I am pretty keen on the Fezzari Wiki Peak, but was comparing the components on the next level up (Abajo Peak). One of the biggest standouts between the two is the forks. The Wiki has a Suntour XCR Air 34mm which weights 2300g, whereas the Abajo comes with an X-Fusion McQueen at 2000g.
This got me wondering how much one would notice that difference, esp. on a fork? Seems like the wheels and forks would be a good place to try to save some weight..
Does anyone a thoughts on the impact of the different forks? I know that in general the XCR gets poo-pooed, but I don't it's hard to know if it really matters.
I'm somewhat stuck in the analysis phase of "for a little bit more $ I can get....".
Any thoughts appreciated.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
l would say performance has more importance than 300gr, having said that l dont know the forks youve stated at all, or the bikes......
l also would say dont get hung up on one component, the whole package is important
l also would say dont get hung up on one component, the whole package is important
Thanks for the comments. I need to stop over-thinking this.
I will always choose coil over air. Weight be damned.
I’m going to have this etched on my tombstone.I will always choose coil over air. Weight be damned.
I have an Abajo Peak. The performance of the better fork is worth the price.
I assume you like the bike? Any downsides? I like the frame b/c of the ability to switch between the 27.5+ and 29s, flexibility helps when you can't make decisions!I have an Abajo Peak. The performance of the better fork is worth the price.
I think I want to start with the 27.5x2.8s. I also like the Wiki color a bit more.
Thanks for the comment.
I love the bike. Its been a great allrounder. I went 29er because of where I live and ride, more chunk less tight twisty trails. I'm on the heavier side at 230 (currently) and ride everything from XC and gravel miles to black diamond descents. The OEM wheels lasted about a year, and then I needed to upgrade. But thats what your going to get with OEM wheels. They still work and all, but they're just not as strong as my custom set. I also run the bike on the burlier side, DHF/DHR tires, 4 piston brakes, EX511 wheels. So its not as light and as fast on the XC trails, but it can handle the nastier trails.I assume you like the bike? Any downsides? I like the frame b/c of the ability to switch between the 27.5+ and 29s, flexibility helps when you can't make decisions!
I think I want to start with the 27.5x2.8s. I also like the Wiki color a bit more.
Thanks for the comment.
Don't base your purchase on color. Base it on where you live, what you ride, and getting the best you can afford.
-The Suntour shock does not have a lock out on it, whereas the X-Fusion does.
-The Suntour fork has only 130 travel only has lockout and rebound adjustment. The X-Fusion has 3 lockout settings (full open, partly closed, locked out) low speed compression settings, and rebound adjustment. Way more adjustments and a much better dampner.
-The bottom bracket is far better on the Abajo.
-NX over SX, many here say both are crap, but the NX parts are better.
The savings of buying the Wiki is $350 from the Abajo. Think long term, if you decide to upgrade just the forks, your $350 savings is blown.
Yeah, I don't disagree - the Abajo probably is the better value spot. I hadn't looked into the difference in the shock (thanks for pointing that out), but I was aware the X-Fusion is considered a bit better fork, and was wondering if I should get the Wiki upgraded to use that fork, but I was focused on the impact of the weight. I don't knowI love the bike. Its been a great allrounder. I went 29er because of where I live and ride, more chunk less tight twisty trails. I'm on the heavier side at 230 (currently) and ride everything from XC and gravel miles to black diamond descents. The OEM wheels lasted about a year, and then I needed to upgrade. But thats what your going to get with OEM wheels. They still work and all, but they're just not as strong as my custom set. I also run the bike on the burlier side, DHF/DHR tires, 4 piston brakes, EX511 wheels. So its not as light and as fast on the XC trails, but it can handle the nastier trails.
Don't base your purchase on color. Base it on where you live, what you ride, and getting the best you can afford.
-The Suntour shock does not have a lock out on it, whereas the X-Fusion does.
-The Suntour fork has only 130 travel only has lockout and rebound adjustment. The X-Fusion has 3 lockout settings (full open, partly closed, locked out) low speed compression settings, and rebound adjustment. Way more adjustments and a much better dampner.
-The bottom bracket is far better on the Abajo.
-NX over SX, many here say both are crap, but the NX parts are better.
The savings of buying the Wiki is $350 from the Abajo. Think long term, if you decide to upgrade just the forks, your $350 savings is blown.
I've been all over the place - started with the Abajo but moved to the Wiki for the 27.5's, but then started to wonder about the fork....but then again, after adding a dropper to the Abajo it's only $600 more for the Cascade, with the DVO and GX/G2, etc....it never ends.
I'm in the denial stage of bike purchasing.
Thanks for the response.
You can get 27.5 wheels on the Abajo. Just call Fezzari when you place the order. I upgraded to Guide 4 pot brakes when I bought the bike and never had to deal with the levels.
I didn’t mention it, but their service after the purchase has been amazing. I had shock bushing issue, sent me new hardware the next day, my rear free hub went out, same thing. I had a major boo boo where the derailleur got hung up and peeled back a part of the frame where the mount was. They had a new seat stay section, derailleur hanger, and derailleur (I paid for this) out in two days. My bike was down for only 5 days.
I didn’t mention it, but their service after the purchase has been amazing. I had shock bushing issue, sent me new hardware the next day, my rear free hub went out, same thing. I had a major boo boo where the derailleur got hung up and peeled back a part of the frame where the mount was. They had a new seat stay section, derailleur hanger, and derailleur (I paid for this) out in two days. My bike was down for only 5 days.
I've heard that they were quite good in the service respect...but it also seems like "free hub" is mentioned in every Fezzari thread (and so we finally got there). Mostly with being noisy.You can get 27.5 wheels on the Abajo. Just call Fezzari when you place the order. I upgraded to Guide 4 pot brakes when I bought the bike and never had to deal with the levels.
I didn’t mention it, but their service after the purchase has been amazing. I had shock bushing issue, sent me new hardware the next day, my rear free hub went out, same thing. I had a major boo boo where the derailleur got hung up and peeled back a part of the frame where the mount was. They had a new seat stay section, derailleur hanger, and derailleur (I paid for this) out in two days. My bike was down for only 5 days.
Yeah, I wouldn't over-think 300g. Also, you may be thinking lighter weight will make manuals easier, theoretically. But once you have a full suspension bike you'll see that you can also squat-down the rear suspension in ways that help you manual, so it's different than the HT you're used to. Anyway, in 2-4 years when it's time to spend money to rebuild the front suspension, you can always check then if you want to upgrade your fork instead of forking over the rebuild cost. I'd just fork over the cash to get the bike you can afford and not worry about the fork.
These days, I choose coil over air, and feel like the tradeoff is more than worth it. But the weight is noticeable. I recently and briefly switched back to air and a lighter front wheel and the bike feels noticeably more spry and whippy. It would definitely pass the blindfold test.
Fork: Z1 Coil back to Fox Factory 36.
Wheel: Bonty LIne Pro 30 to Astral Serpentine.
I sure missed the small and square-edged sensitivity!
Fork: Z1 Coil back to Fox Factory 36.
Wheel: Bonty LIne Pro 30 to Astral Serpentine.
I sure missed the small and square-edged sensitivity!
Yes, weight usually doesn’t matter.
But on some bikes, a heavy fork makes the bike unbalanced and nose heavy. You have to go too far behind in the jumps. This is certainly due to the geometry of the bike.
But on some bikes, a heavy fork makes the bike unbalanced and nose heavy. You have to go too far behind in the jumps. This is certainly due to the geometry of the bike.
Go for performance, not weight. I put on a set of Fasst Flexx alloy bars that probably added 300 grams and on my first ride up Hymasa in Moab set a climb PR. And my hands felt better.
But often a lighter fork will also perform better so there's no point in adding weight unless it serves performance.
But often a lighter fork will also perform better so there's no point in adding weight unless it serves performance.
Weight makes a difference on a fork like any part of mtn bike. That said like any part on a bike quality of part is more important weight. Once you are getting similar quality then weight becomes a factor. On a fork you will notice damper performance first, stiffness 2nd and weight last.
Hi all,
Thanks for the replies. It sounds like my choice is a bit more limited - there is a long wait time for the 27.5 wheels on the X-fusion fork bike (Abajo). So I just need to confirm that I want to go with the 27.5s, and I'll see how the other fork does.
Also note, Suntour offers an upgrade program for the XCR Air fork, where you get credit for the fork and can buy a slightly better model for a discount. It unclear to me if this is a useful program or not. It seems to only upgrade to slightly less budget forks, but I'm not really up on the differences between the various models.
Thanks.
Thanks for the replies. It sounds like my choice is a bit more limited - there is a long wait time for the 27.5 wheels on the X-fusion fork bike (Abajo). So I just need to confirm that I want to go with the 27.5s, and I'll see how the other fork does.
Also note, Suntour offers an upgrade program for the XCR Air fork, where you get credit for the fork and can buy a slightly better model for a discount. It unclear to me if this is a useful program or not. It seems to only upgrade to slightly less budget forks, but I'm not really up on the differences between the various models.
Thanks.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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