[Just J]

Hi

As some of you know I am waiting to get a Rohloff Speed hub on my bike, however, I plan on using it on all my bikes.

I am building up the hub onto a Mavic XM819 rim, its a great all round use rim, nice and light but strong too, so I can use it from everything from my Uzzi to my XC hardtail.

So is it simply a case of having a Rohloff shifter, chain and tensioner, and possibly a chain device and obviously the crank on each bik eI want to use the Speedhub on?

Is it simply a case of being able to disconect the hub, speedbone from the cables on one bike and hooking it all back up to the other?

Or will I hit complications in doing so?

I hope someone will be able to help please...

 

[Adman]

Running 1 Speedhub with multiple bikes really helps increase the ROI of your new hub!

You should be fine running a single Speedhub on multiple bikes, provided the installation on your bikes is compatible with the Speedhub type you own. In the case of the Uzzi, you'll need the DB version with a Speedbone.
The procedure to swap should be fairly simple as you suggest. Disconnect the shifter box on bike #1, remove rear wheel, install wheel on bike #2, and connect shifter box.

Things you'll need 2 of:
1) Speedhub shifter kit (cables, shifter, external shifter box)
2) Rohloff Tensioner (if both bikes have vertical dropouts). Other tensioners may work, but Rohloff's are very strong & reliable
3) Chain device (if in testing your chain jumps off the chainwheel this is always helpful)
4) Any other mounting accessories for frame compatibility (ie., Speedbone)
5) Front drivetrain: crankset, chain, etc.
6) Bikes

-Adam

Hi

As some of you know I am waiting to get a Rohloff Speed hub on my bike, however, I plan on using it on all my bikes.

I am building up the hub onto a Mavic XM819 rim, its a great all round use rim, nice and light but strong too, so I can use it from everything from my Uzzi to my XC hardtail.

So is it simply a case of having a Rohloff shifter, chain and tensioner, and possibly a chain device and obviously the crank on each bik eI want to use the Speedhub on?

Is it simply a case of being able to disconect the hub, speedbone from the cables on one bike and hooking it all back up to the other?

Or will I hit complications in doing so?

I hope someone will be able to help please...

 

[Just J]

That really is a great help thank you

I only use disc brakes now so I'll definitely just be using the disc version, and I'll make sure my bikes all have the same size rear rotor...

So if I ran a speedhub on two bikes and one was a hardtail can I swap the speedbone out to fit to it?

and if I needed to be able to run it on two full suspension bikes will I definitely need two speedbones? I tak eit this just avoids having to take the caliper off etc?

 

[Speedub.Nate]

So if I ran a speedhub on two bikes and one was a hardtail can I swap the speedbone out to fit to it?

and if I needed to be able to run it on two full suspension bikes will I definitely need two speedbones? I tak eit this just avoids having to take the caliper off etc?

Yeah, two Speedbones would be a good thing. They're just dumb chunks of aluminum and are relatively inexpensive.

The thing with the hardtail is that unless you have an EBB or sliding dropouts, you're going to need a tensioner. And even if the hardtail was designed with a Speedhub in mind (meaning an extended left side dropout, no Speedbone required), you wouldn't be able to utilize that feature and would need to run a Speedbone on that bike in order to make it cross-compatible with your full suspension.

 

[Adman]

Come to think of it, you'll probably need 2 Speedbones. There are a couple of ways to setup the Speedhub so that it transmits torque to the bike frame (needed for normal operation), and the most popular one is with disc brakes and the Speedbone. Your Speedhub probably comes with the OEM2 axle plate for disc applications, so plan on Speedbones on both. When I spoke with Thomas @ Rohloff a while back to learn about the Speedbone he recommended that based on my bike's full suspension Horst-style design (I ran it on an Uzzi SLX). I'm not sure of a way to install it sans Speedbone on a bike w/ disc brakes anyhow.

-Adam

That really is a great help thank you

I only use disc brakes now so I'll definitely just be using the disc version, and I'll make sure my bikes all have the same size rear rotor...

So if I ran a speedhub on two bikes and one was a hardtail can I swap the speedbone out to fit to it?

and if I needed to be able to run it on two full suspension bikes will I definitely need two speedbones? I tak eit this just avoids having to take the caliper off etc?

 

[Just J]

Thats great thanks, at least I know I can run it on all my bikes now

 

[itsdoable]

I swap Speedhubs between bikes, and as long as the torque arm & shifter box set up is the same, it's like changing a regular wheel.

First off, all you bikes should use the same torque arm, if not, you will have to swap the torque arms between bikes, which means removing the rotor (if you are running discs). Doable, but not quick.

Second, the cable routing for the shifter box needs to be the same, and the cable box need to be in the same place on each frame, which can be difficult if the rear triangles are very different. To change the angle that the shifter box sits wrt the torque arm plate, you will have to remove the torque arm - again no fun.

You will need duplicates of all the parts that stay on the bike when you remove the wheel (shifter, cable, shifter box, torque arm mount).

 

[Just J]

I ride faux bar and VPP bikes as well as a couple of hardtails, I wonder if this will cause a problem with cable routing and making sure the torque arm/speedbone and the shifter box will be in the correct position?...

 

[itsdoable]

I ride faux bar and VPP bikes as well as a couple of hardtails, I wonder if this will cause a problem with cable routing and making sure the torque arm/speedbone and the shifter box will be in the correct position?...

The location of the OEM-2 torque arm adapter & shifter box depends on where the brake caliper is, you should be OK for most of those setups. If you use an after-market torque arm, the angle that the chainstay makes with the brake caliper determines where the shifter box can go.

 

[Monte]

I ride faux bar and VPP bikes as well as a couple of hardtails, I wonder if this will cause a problem with cable routing and making sure the torque arm/speedbone and the shifter box will be in the correct position?...

The cable routing will have to be the same for all the bikes, that should be easy enough to do, unless you want to change the Axle Plate, which you don't want to do. You will have to use a Speedbone on the FS bikes, which means you'll have a shifterbox for the FS bikes. Unless you want to change the Axle Plate when you go from FS to hardtail you'll want Speedbones for those bikes too, instead of a Torque Arm. For the bikes you mentioned you'll want a total of 3 extra shifters, 3 extra Speedbones, 3 extra Shifterboxes, 3 extra cable sets. Chuck the Rohloff cables and get some high quality 4mm teflon lined housing, 1.1mm shifter cables.

Monte

 

[Just J]

OK I've weighed up the pro's and con's of the Rohloff, and the mere fact that to kit all my bikes with their own individual SRAM or Shimano Drivetrain would cost a lot more than simply using one wheel configuration with a Speedhub and the relevant parts needed for each bike.

However I'm just trying to get my head around the routing of the shifter box.

In this picture it shows the two routing options, which is the better route? I don't foresee any problems really using one route for each bike...

Also another rookie question, but will I need an OEM axel plate for each bike too or am I getting totally confused now?

Thanks for everyone's help on this

 

[Monte]

OK I've weighed up the pro's and con's of the Rohloff, and the mere fact that to kit all my bikes with their own individual SRAM or Shimano Drivetrain would cost a lot more than simply using one wheel configuration with a Speedhub and the relevant parts needed for each bike.

However I'm just trying to get my head around the routing of the shifter box.

In this picture it shows the two routing options, which is the better route? I don't foresee any problems really using one route for each bike...

Also another rookie question, but will I need an OEM axel plate for each bike too or am I getting totally confused now?

Thanks for everyone's help on this

The Axle Plate is attached to the hub, only one needed.

I prefer the left pictured cable routing. I got less cable drag doing it that way. Of course that's just me, I think Speedub goes the other way.

Monte

 

[Just J]

Thanks Monte

Do you guys thinkg that you could post pics of your set up and routing for me please?

I desperately want to go ahead with this, but I'm just really scared of any complications that might arise! HELP make my mind up for me please!

 

[Monte]

Thanks Monte

Do you guys thinkg that you could post pics of your set up and routing for me please?

I desperately want to go ahead with this, but I'm just really scared of any complications that might arise! HELP make my mind up for me please!

Can't show you mine, it's being moved to another frame that isn't even built yet, it'll be a cuppla months before it's going again.

Monte

 

[Just J]

Can't show you mine, it's being moved to another frame that isn't even built yet, it'll be a cuppla months before it's going again.

Monte

OK thanks anyway hopefully someone else will be able to show me

 

[itsdoable]

...routing options, which is the better route? I don't foresee any problems really using one route for each bike...

I prefer to keep eveything above the chainstay - that way it's less likely to get damaged, like when your rear wheel slips off the side of a skinny....BTDT. However, the shifter box is pretty tough, and I've bent it (not broke it) even when it was up tight to the seat stay, simply by landing it on a rock during a bail. Phil Woods made a bike with the shifter box routed underneath, he claims you get a better cable run (less friction during shifting) that way. In the real world, the shifter box seems to survive just fine down there. Search the site, there are alot of pictures of different shifter box setups.

 

[Adman]

My old Uzzi SLX + Speedhub Here

Here's a side view of my Uzzi SLX Speedhub setup w/ Speedbone.
-Adam

OK thanks anyway hopefully someone else will be able to show me

 

[Adman]

I second the durability comments re: shifter box. I replaced mine after 2 seasons where it was getting difficult to remote easily due to parts being, um, out of specification.
With an MRP guide up front I sailed through a week at Whistler's bike park without a single mechanical problem (save replacement brake pads).
-Adam

I prefer to keep eveything above the chainstay - that way it's less likely to get damaged, like when your rear wheel slips off the side of a skinny....BTDT. However, the shifter box is pretty tough, and I've bent it (not broke it) even when it was up tight to the seat stay, simply by landing it on a rock during a bail. Phil Woods made a bike with the shifter box routed underneath, he claims you get a better cable run (less friction during shifting) that way. In the real world, the shifter box seems to survive just fine down there. Search the site, there are alot of pictures of different shifter box setups.

 

[Just J]

Here's a side view of my Uzzi SLX Speedhub setup w/ Speedbone.
-Adam

Thank you, that looks pretty neat