I think the only difference between 9 and 10 chain speeds is the width and not the link length - I am pretty sure its standardised so you can use your preferred method of measuring stretch, I have the park tool (cc1 I think). I haven't used a 10 speed SRAM chain so can't be 100% but I do know that this is true for Shimano and third party chains I've used.
How do you check chain stretch on a sram 2X10 chain?
How do you check chain stretch on a Sram XX 2X10 chain? Im guessing that i cant check it with a normal chain stretch measuring tool made for normal 9spd chains. Am I wrong? If I cant use the old measuring tool can someone explain how to check the 10 spd chain with a ruler. Thanks :thumbsup:
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You are wrong. No difference in how you check for wear.How do you check chain stretch on a Sram XX 2X10 chain? Im guessing that i cant check it with a normal chain stretch measuring tool made for normal 9spd chains. Am I wrong? If I cant use the old measuring tool can someone explain how to check the 10 spd chain with a ruler. Thanks :thumbsup:
You can use a ruler or a chain measurement tool. Just like 9 speed. Doesn't matter if its a SS chain, 8,9, or 10 speed chain.
I prefer a ruler.
I prefer a ruler.
Exactly the same, I also prefer the ruler over any chain stretch tool (and I own a Park)
Thanks guys for the info!
I just found out a kmc 10sp chain doesn't last long. I just checked mine on my cdale carbon flash and I used a park tool with a dial and numbers and colors and also another that only indicates .75% and 1% (not sure about this) and it didn't look good. I have probably, oh sht, 400 miles. I bet I waited too long.
Since all bike chains share the same 1/2" pitch, stretch can measured the same way. My preferred method because it's cheap, simple, and accurate is by tensioning the chain slightly and measuring 12" (or 11-1/2" if the ruler doesn't have good ends). All pins should line up the same way at 1/2" intervals, but with wear, each will be a bit beyind it's respective mark. Over 12" it accumulates to something you can see and measure. 1/16" over 12" is the common replacement point.
You can also buy one of those gadgets made for the job, but they tend to be less accurate than the free method.
You can also buy one of those gadgets made for the job, but they tend to be less accurate than the free method.
The Park tool will generally show 50% on a brand new chain and 75% pretty quickly. However, I have several chains that I rotate that have remained at 75% for extended periods of time. I personally have found that the KMC chains (and Shimano chains which are made by KMC) last a very long time using a good wet lube. Use the ruler method for a much more accurate measurement of chain stretch.I just found out a kmc 10sp chain doesn't last long. I just checked mine on my cdale carbon flash and I used a park tool with a dial and numbers and colors and also another that only indicates .75% and 1% (not sure about this) and it didn't look good. I have probably, oh sht, 400 miles. I bet I waited too long.
Thanks guys! I just checked my chain with the ruler method and its still good measuring a perfect 12".
What type of problems do you get from a stretched chain?
Once you get to a point of a "stretched" chain if it's not replaced soon enough, then you run into the issue of accelerated cassette/chainring wear.What type of problems do you get from a stretched chain?
If you don't catch the chain wear in time, and you put on a new chain, you can and usually develop chain skip. This is the roller skipping over the edge of the cassette/chain ring when under power. Not a good thing when you are trying to power up a hill or over an obstacle.
I ask that question because all my gear is fairly new cassette chainrings and chain all xo SRAM stuff. I am getting some skipping and and chain freeze on downshifting to bigger rear ring. It's very frustrating because as I said all the gear has less then 200 miles on it. I'm a big strong guy and will just power up most stuf in whatever gear I'm in but I'm thinking possibly I already stretched the SRAM 1091r chain already and its the cause of my problems.
Chain strech is a misnomer: Chain wear, not chain loading - Keep you chain clean
vince7870, I am a big guy (6'5", 260 lbs) that is a very hard rider (like climbing), and here is what I have learned... Chain stretch is a misnomer. The amount we, the rider, stretch the chain is very minor and not really a limiting factor. What really is a big concern is the wear caused between the roller and pins of each chain link. As the pins and roller wear, they get smaller and the space between neighbors increases. This increase is the growth we see in the chain... i.e. the chain appears to be stretched. It is not actually stretched; it is worn and therefore longer.
Why prevent the wear? Chains are amazingly efficient power transfer systems. But when they are worn, they chew up the much softer cassette cogs and chain rings. If allowed to go too long, you wear these parts (chain, rear cassette cogs and sometimes front rings) and have to replace them, which is very costly. You also start getting frustrating failures like chain suck (on the front rings) or poor shifting, slipping or even chain breakage. So cost, performance and safety is why we want to prevent chain wear. If you prevent chain wear you can extend the life of each chain to ton. If you replace your chain when it has reached its life, via a chain wear tool or the ruler method, you can get four or five chains on one rear cassette - as opposed to having a cassette go bad quickly when not caring for a chain and letting it wear.
How to prevent wear? Now this was a biggie for me. I used to think 'lube the chain and you will be fine'. But MUCH more importantly, it is about cleaning the chain. You need to get the fine particulates out from between the rollers and pins. This will really extend your chain life and improve performance.
Once you realize that a clean interface between roller and pin is what is important, two important corollaries become clear:
1) never lube a dirty chain - you are just carrying dirt into the all-important roller-pin interface.
2) Keep lube off the outside of the chain - clean lube off the outside of the chain after lubrication. The lube is NOT for the OUTSIDE of the chain. It only attracts dirt and particles there, which are carried into the pin-roller interface.
Hope this helps. Once I realized I was not stretching the chain with my weight and riding style, realized that care for the chain would improve performance and reduce cost and realized that keeping the chain clean is all important, I changed several things I was doing.
vince7870, I am a big guy (6'5", 260 lbs) that is a very hard rider (like climbing), and here is what I have learned... Chain stretch is a misnomer. The amount we, the rider, stretch the chain is very minor and not really a limiting factor. What really is a big concern is the wear caused between the roller and pins of each chain link. As the pins and roller wear, they get smaller and the space between neighbors increases. This increase is the growth we see in the chain... i.e. the chain appears to be stretched. It is not actually stretched; it is worn and therefore longer.
Why prevent the wear? Chains are amazingly efficient power transfer systems. But when they are worn, they chew up the much softer cassette cogs and chain rings. If allowed to go too long, you wear these parts (chain, rear cassette cogs and sometimes front rings) and have to replace them, which is very costly. You also start getting frustrating failures like chain suck (on the front rings) or poor shifting, slipping or even chain breakage. So cost, performance and safety is why we want to prevent chain wear. If you prevent chain wear you can extend the life of each chain to ton. If you replace your chain when it has reached its life, via a chain wear tool or the ruler method, you can get four or five chains on one rear cassette - as opposed to having a cassette go bad quickly when not caring for a chain and letting it wear.
How to prevent wear? Now this was a biggie for me. I used to think 'lube the chain and you will be fine'. But MUCH more importantly, it is about cleaning the chain. You need to get the fine particulates out from between the rollers and pins. This will really extend your chain life and improve performance.
Once you realize that a clean interface between roller and pin is what is important, two important corollaries become clear:
1) never lube a dirty chain - you are just carrying dirt into the all-important roller-pin interface.
2) Keep lube off the outside of the chain - clean lube off the outside of the chain after lubrication. The lube is NOT for the OUTSIDE of the chain. It only attracts dirt and particles there, which are carried into the pin-roller interface.
Hope this helps. Once I realized I was not stretching the chain with my weight and riding style, realized that care for the chain would improve performance and reduce cost and realized that keeping the chain clean is all important, I changed several things I was doing.
SS Wipperman on 2x10 Sram Drivetrain?
Has anyone used a 2012 Wippermann ConneX 10S1 Stainless 10-Speed Chain on a SRAM 2x10 drivetrain? My 2x10 chain rings say 'SRAM Chain Only'. I really like the idea of using a long life stainless steel chain, but have some fear that it will not shift effecitively or have some other issue. Thanks.
Has anyone used a 2012 Wippermann ConneX 10S1 Stainless 10-Speed Chain on a SRAM 2x10 drivetrain? My 2x10 chain rings say 'SRAM Chain Only'. I really like the idea of using a long life stainless steel chain, but have some fear that it will not shift effecitively or have some other issue. Thanks.
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