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EDR
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1)loosen stem bolts (on side of stem)
2) remove top cap bolt and top cap (top of stem)
3)remove stem from fork
4) pull fork out of headset (should slide out, maybe a tap with a rubber mallet is needed)
5)remove crown race from fork. This is the little metal rings that is pressed around the fork steerer tube (where the tube meets the crown). This is part of the headset when you buy it and only works with that headset (for the most part). You will need to pry this off carefully and then press it on the new fork. It's an easy DIY but it's also just as easy to give the lbs 5 bucks to remove it and press it on the new fork. My lbs has done this free of charge, it takes them less than one minute to make the swap.

You can use a small screwdriver on the underside of the crown race to tap it off the fork. Go around a little at a time being careful not to damage the race. After getting it just a few mm up it will be ready to slide right off. To install, set the race down as far as it will go. I use a small piece of PVC pipe just a bit larger in diameter than the steerer tube and set it over the race, then use a regular hammer to press it fully down. You'll know when it's fully seated. It will look even and the sound it makes as you hammer will change to a more solid sound, if that makes sense.

You'll need a star nut installed in the new fork if it doesn't already have one. This is what the top cap bolt fixes to to hold everything tight. Another reason to let the lbs help out with the race also. They can do the race and starnut for a few bucks in just minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's not a new fork, it's a swap. my other frame broke so i'm swapping some stuff to the hardtail in the meantime.

How the **** do I repack my headset???
it's got my head spinning in 90 different ways.
 

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EDR
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Luigiugueto said:
It's not a new fork, it's a swap. my other frame broke so i'm swapping some stuff to the hardtail in the meantime.

How the **** do I repack my headset???
it's got my head spinning in 90 different ways.
What kind of headset?

For the most part just clean out the old grease and put in new grease. If you have cartridge bearings then use a very tiny pick or eyeglass screwdriver to carefully pry the rubber/metal dust seals off. Then flush out the old, and put in new. Replace the seals. They will kinda click in place when fully seated. Its super easy, usually...knock on wood...

One other note: If the lower cartridge bearing (that is seated in the lower end of you head tube) should come out BE SURE to install it the SAME WAY. Often times the bearing is beveled in a way that it mates with the race crown properly in one orientation only, at least in my experiences. If you do remove it place it over the fork steerer, then push the fork into the headset being sure the bearing seats up in there properly.

It's all really much simpler than I am making it sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
eatdrinkride said:
1)loosen stem bolts (on side of stem)
2) remove top cap bolt and top cap (top of stem)
3)remove stem from fork
4) pull fork out of headset (should slide out, maybe a tap with a rubber mallet is needed)
5)remove crown race from fork. This is the little metal rings that is pressed around the fork steerer tube (where the tube meets the crown). This is part of the headset when you buy it and only works with that headset (for the most part). You will need to pry this off carefully and then press it on the new fork. It's an easy DIY but it's also just as easy to give the lbs 5 bucks to remove it and press it on the new fork. My lbs has done this free of charge, it takes them less than one minute to make the swap.

You can use a small screwdriver on the underside of the crown race to tap it off the fork. Go around a little at a time being careful not to damage the race. After getting it just a few mm up it will be ready to slide right off. To install, set the race down as far as it will go. I use a small piece of PVC pipe just a bit larger in diameter than the steerer tube and set it over the race, then use a regular hammer to press it fully down. You'll know when it's fully seated. It will look even and the sound it makes as you hammer will change to a more solid sound, if that makes sense.

You'll need a star nut installed in the new fork if it doesn't already have one. This is what the top cap bolt fixes to to hold everything tight. Another reason to let the lbs help out with the race also. They can do the race and starnut for a few bucks in just minutes.
Can you break it down to someone who doesn't know the tech-talk lol -and don't say "little metal rings" there are like 5 of 'em and I don't know which goes where lol. I don't know ANYTHING about headsets. I already have the fork out, i'm trying to place the other one in but I don't know how the headset comes back in. It's organized on the floor but I figure it's wrong (fit was horrible..)

Can you help me put it back on??? lol

It's a Aheadset integrated headset...
 

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EDR
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10,572 Posts
sit down, relax and check this link out.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/

Click on the parts of the bike you want help with, I.E. fork/headset areas. Within those areas are tons of info on threadless headset replacements, fork removal etc. I think you need flash enabled to use the site properly.

I gotta go, me and the kid are heading out for a camping trip. Gotta get out of this God awful heat.

Also keep in mind if the new fork has a shorter or longer steerer tube, fit will be more of a chore as the amount of headset spacers (if you had any) below or above the stem will likely need to be adjusted for the new fork. Bottom line is that the top of the stem (or spacer that you may have on top of stem) should be about 3 to 5mm higher than the top of the steerer tube. what I am saying is that the steerer tube MUST be below the level of the stem or spacer. If it is not the top cap won't seat all the way down. Look at the top cap, notice how it's beveled at the bottom? This is supposed to seat down into the stem or spacer. If it can't you will bottom the top cap out on the stem when you tighten the top cap bolt, before the fork/headset has had a chance to snug everything up. This is bad.

Good luck.
 
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