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Cannondale fitness / hybrid
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks!

I've been reading and learning stuff in this forum for a few weeks now and I need help on assessing the urgency of replacing hub and rim (please forgive if it's too stupid of a question)

Only lately, after riding about 10.000 miles in 2 years, it dawned on me the importance of taking seriously the preventive maintenance, so, I started learning about it. Unfortunately, it was too late for my rear hub, I'm still getting familiar with bike maintenance and have a lot to learn.

My bike have these loose ball bearings hubs and the bearing cup is a bit damaged as you can see in the photo. I've regreased and replaced the balls, it's functional, but not running as smooth as I think it was supposed to be.

So, my question is: can I ride a couple hundred miles before replacing this rear hub or it needs to be replaced pronto? And what about the rims, are they too worn out? Time to new ones? Rims size is 622 x 16c - hybrid bike (700c). And I don't remember it having that holes that indicates the time to replace them. It's my commute / tour bike.

Thanks in advace for any help and greetings from Brazil


Wheel Bicycle Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle part

Rear hub after cleaning: cup has some cavities

Tire Wheel Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle wheel Bicycle

Rim is a bit worn, but it seems strong
 

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yes you can continue to ride that just fine, of course the wheel will not perform as smoothy as a fresh bearing surface but nothing should end up failing catastrophically if you pack with grease, the correct number of balls, and only plan on a few hundred miles.

yes rims are about done too....they will eventually split if you keep using them, and tire can explode catastrophically off the rim and jam in the frame or fork (rare to jam though, it should just flop around but not lock you up) and send you flying if it does....so I'd worry more about the rim actually than a lumpy hub bearing
 

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If the amount of wear on the rim is after 10000 miles of riding then you can probably get a few hundred more without too much worries. Worst case is the rim will split and then you are forced to get something new before you can use it anymore.

I would order something new, and ride what you have until the replacement arrives.

Nice job on 5000 miles per year!
 

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The hub is done for with that pitting in the race. You could pack it with fresh bearings and grease and ride it but it will spin like shite.

The rim has got deep wear in the brake track.

I would recommend replacing the wheel at this point.

However you can probably squeeze another 500 miles out of it.
 

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Cannondale fitness / hybrid
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you all, I'm ordering new hub and rims this week. The hub could still be great if I had taken good care of it. Anyways, it's never too late to start :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Hey folks! I'm back to update:
I'm waiting for Cannondale to get back to me about the OEM rims I want to buy, so, I need to keep riding with the old rims for a while.
I bought this tool do measure the thickness of the rims in the brake track and it is 1 mm thick.
Am I really in danger? Does the bike give any sign before spliting the rims so I can have time to stop? Is there a workaround or some trick I can do in order to strengthen the rims and keep them for a while?

Because of this, I'm only riding when necessary, about 10 miles 3 times a week and in plane routes to avoid using the brakes and kinda slow

tool to measure the rims thickness

This is the tool ☝
 

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the rim will develop a short hairline crack in the worst wear spot before blowing a tire off

so, rub some mud on it, wipe off, check with a flashlight....do this a lot if you keep riding that rim

you see a dark line forming, it's starting to split
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah, Darthy toy, very thin, I'm so worried about falling off suddenly. And Localhost, very good idea, I'm so doing it to check if there's any cracks I can't see. Grinchy8, I'm thinking about it. The thing is here in Brazil we have few options and if I get any of the available third party rims, it will change a lot the bike looks and maybe it's performance. The OEM rims are 622 x 16 c and 15mm depth, 6061 alloy. The most similar non oem rim I found is 622 x 19 c, 26 mm depth and 6063 alloy. This is why I so want the oem. But of course, if it takes too long to get them, I'll have to buy this similar. You know what, I'm about to do it this week. And maybe assemble a new wheel when I get the OEM and keep this other as an extra pair of wheels... we never know when we'll need it, right?! What do you think? Thank you all
 

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I've seen rims close to blowing before and the beads were starting to spread apart just due to the tire pressure. It was a tandem road bike, so pretty high tire pressures. Not sure on a mtb with its lower pressures how soon it'd crack after starting to bend. But once that first crack shows, stop using it immediately. That crack can propagate fairly quickly and blow the bead off the rim. Once that happens, you're talking about a blowout and a nasty wreck.

I also second looking at whatever rim you can get that's even vaguely similar. Chances are not good that you'll find an exact match. There are other options available. You just have to find a source that has access to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hello folks! @127.0.0.1 @006_007 @Fuse6F @Grinchy8 @Harold @Dirtfiend Another update:
I bought a pair of third party rims because Cannondale asked for more time. And you know what? I don't like them!

The seam is huge and there's a seam also in the brake track, with this bulge (cannondale's original rims either don't have it on the brake track or it was so thin that faded out due to the wear). See in the photos. Also, I don't like the finishing in the spoke holes. And can you believe the new rims thickness is 1mm near the seams and 1.4 mm in the opposite side? If I'm worried because my rims thickness is 1mm, why would I replace them for another with 1 - 1.4 mm? I was expecting something with 2mm +. I'm willing to return them, what do you think? Am I being too demanding? I don't believe this is the same quality of rims you have there in the north America and Europe

I carefully checked my rims and there's no crack at all. Maybe I'm safer with the old OEM rims than with this new one, don't you think?

And one more important question: if I keep riding carefully, at max speed 18 mph, asphalt, rims will gradually crack long before failing catastrophically? Or they can have the first crack and split completely out of the blue, during a 10 miles ride?

Thank you all!
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seams are normal
but the braking surface at the seam should be ground smooth
 
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I want to know what those are. probably some cheap low budget chinese junk. if that's all you can get, though, then it's all you can get.

thing with your current rims is that nobody can say with 100% certainty how much time you've got left before they crack and fail, or exactly how that failure will occur when it does. folks have provided general tendencies, but as far as I'm concerned, your old rims are done. You have replacements, and even though they're not especially good ones, they're something and they'll be safer than your clapped out rims.
 

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I want to know what those are. probably some cheap low budget chinese junk. if that's all you can get, though, then it's all you can get.

thing with your current rims is that nobody can say with 100% certainty how much time you've got left before they crack and fail, or exactly how that failure will occur when it does. folks have provided general tendencies, but as far as I'm concerned, your old rims are done. You have replacements, and even though they're not especially good ones, they're something and they'll be safer than your clapped out rims.
Why does that picture look like the new third party rim doesn't have a brake track for rim brakes? Are those a disc only rim possibly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
These rims are manufactured in Brazil, a well know national brand and told to be good. Maybe it's just a defect. I don't like the bulge at all. And 1mm of thickness near the joints, the exact area that's more prone to fail/split? I won't feel safer on them.

@Harold I see what you mean, but I carefully inspected my rims, outside and inside and I trust them more than these new ones. Of course I'm riding less and extra carefully, plus my bike is properly greased and very silent which makes me think I'll have time to eventually stop if I hear any sound. But I agree it's not safe I won't recommend it at all.

And you know, my oem rims are so good quality that after 2 years of many rides in the rain and bike washing, I removed the rim tape now for the first time and there was no sign of corrosion at all, not even in the spoke nipples, although there was water smudges on the tape.

Good idea @Grinchy8, I'll check this Mavic option, thanks
@006_007 they're rim brakes for sure, I checked the specs. Here's a better picture

Thank you all. Hope I can be back soon to show you some brand new rims I really like!

Hood Bicycle tire Wheel Automotive lighting Grille
 
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