[zipzit]

I'm doing some work on a Karate Monkey Single Speed. I've pretty much locked into a front sprocket, and plan to do any gear changes with the rear SS freewheel I use Surly Stainless 34 tooth front sprocket (110bcd) and ACS claws single freewheel. At this time, the lowest gear I will probably use is 22T Rear. Right now I'm trying to figure out chain length.

My question is this: What is the right chain length to enable freewheel swaps? My intent is to place the 22T as far forward in the "dropout" er... track-style horizontal fork ends...as possible, then size the chain... Is there a rule of thumb here for chain removal (e.g. You need at lease 1/4" of excess slot in the dropout to enable enough slack to remove the rear wheel without damage to components.) How much slack is required?

Assuming that I keep the same front sprocket (34T), and if I start the package at 22T rear, what is the smallest freewheel that will fit on my rear hub without removing links to adjust chain length (before the rear axle falls out of the track fork end??)

Anybody been here before?

thanks,
zipzit.

 

[shiggy]

The chain length is going to be what it needs to be. Sometimes you have the option of adding or removing a link to have the wheel forward or back in the dropouts.

What I use an 1/8" (BMX/track) chain with two master links. Have about 5-8 links between the master links. When I change the gearing I replace the short section with one with more or fewer links as needed for the new gear. Simple, quick and easy to do.

 

[Nater]

Dis you steal my bike?

That's the same set-up that I've got (Surly KM, 34 tooth Surly ring, 22 tooth ACS freewheel)! I've got 20, 18, and 16 tooth freewheels sitting around too and another chain. I think I can run the 20 and 22 tooth with the same chain and the 18 and 16 with the other (shorter) chain. I haven't changed gears on it yet except to put the 16 tooth on for a cyclocross race. Shiggy's idea works pretty slick too...I did that on my old SS.

 

[zipzit]

That's the same set-up that I've got (Surly KM, 34 tooth Surly ring, 22 tooth ACS freewheel)! I've got 20, 18, and 16 tooth freewheels sitting around too and another chain. I think I can run the 20 and 22 tooth with the same chain and the 18 and 16 with the other (shorter) chain. I haven't changed gears on it yet except to put the 16 tooth on for a cyclocross race. Shiggy's idea works pretty slick too...I did that on my old SS.

Wow, quick response. Aren't you guys supposed to be at work right now? Oh... what's that? You are working? oh... Me too.

Nater, did you ever wish you could drop down to a lower gear, beyond the 34/22T ?? (i.e. did I err in chosing a SS hub for this setup?)

thanks in advance, Zip it.

 

[Nater]

There is one race...

Wow, quick response. Aren't you guys supposed to be at work right now? Oh... what's that? You are working? oh... Me too.

Nater, did you ever wish you could drop down to a lower gear, beyond the 34/22T ?? (i.e. did I err in chosing a SS hub for this setup?)

thanks in advance, Zip it.

In our state points series that I wished for a lower gear last season. It was on a different bike that I had converted with an ENO and it didn't work without a half link (that I didn't have). You can get a 23 tooth White Ind ENO freewheel and get yourself one more tooth. I'll be using my geared 29er wheel with an Endless cog and spacers on the Monkey if the desire for a lower gear strikes me for that race again this year. 34x22 is a pretty good everyday, every trail gear for my riding.

 

[pacman]

Shiggy's idea works pretty slick too...I did that on my old SS.

It's also a good place (on the short replaceable section) to put the half-link for even better tuning. Use a chain tool only once!

 

[shiggy]

It's also a good place (on the short replaceable section) to put the half-link for even better tuning. Use a chain tool only once!

With master links you do not need a chain tool (once set up).