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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had a bit of side play, about a mm or so I just recently noticed, so it looked like a good time to finally take some pics to remove the mystery in rebuilding these things. It's always a pleasure to take these things apart. Aside from the cassette lockring tool, this is truly a no special tools needed operation.

The only part I didn't illustrate here was the removal of the bearings in the freehub body, which will be self-explanatory at that step.

1. Hub before disassembly. You simply pull on the freehub firmly. You can do one of several things. You can pull the endcap off with a pair of pliers, as they essentially hold the hub together with a tight seal. The body to hub seal also snaps into place. You can also simply pull the freehub and endcap off together, but it's tougher. I use the latter method.

2. The engagement side of the freehub. Note the pawls, springs, two bearings on the inner side, and the large main seal.

3&4 The axle shaft, the engagement ring inside the hubshell, and note the groove where the oring inside the endcap resides. Also note there is a thick washer here that separates the hub support bearing from the freehub support bearing.

5. Endcap and the lockring side of the freehub.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Some more pics:

1. Rotor side and the seal after the black endcap is removed with a pair of pliers.

2&3 The axle removed. It is removed by tapping from the rotor side. The bearing comes out with it. Note the thick washer.

4&5. More shots of the engagement ring. The axle is reinstalled by tapping from the drive side. Make sure to seat the bearing until it's flush with the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
More pics

1. The freehub with the springs and pawls removed

2. The lockring side. Note the sleeve between the bearings is dislodged. It is at this point you can remove the bearings by putting a deep socket in this gap and tapping against the sleeve or against the bearing directly.

3. Spring installed.

4&5. The pawls and springs installed. Note the locations for the grease application. These locations will continue to feed the pawl tips with lubrication, but not too much. When I removed the assembly, a good amount I left under the pawls was still there. Get some grease on the tips, as well as an amount on the engagement ring. Not much needed, but if you use too much, you can affect the engagement or disengagement. I used a lighter grease that won't prevent the pawls from being pushed out of the way during freewheeling and won't reduce the amount the pawls go into the engagement ring. Too much and too thick grease will prevent proper engagement and disengagement, so be cautious. Note in the last pic the ridge where the main seal resides. Lubricate this to prevent dirt and water intrusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Last pic

The assembly is put back together by installing the black cap on the disc side. Make sure the seal is cleaned and lubed lightly, including the oring on the inside of the cap.

The freehub is simply pushed onto the hub, over the axle shaft. The main seal snaps into place on the hub. Place silver endcap on the end of the shaft, then use a quick release to clamp it all together tightly. Remove and the hub is ready for the cassette. Make sure nothing is binding and you'll be all set.

For the seals, I use prep-m. I also checked the outer bearings for lube and found one had little in it. Used prep-m, and also made sure all seal faces had a thin film or residue of grease for water repellancy.

This whole job can be done in under 30 minutes.
 

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very helpfull, hopefully itll be some time yet before i have to service mine.

how many miles did you get out of them? or were you just itching to take them apart? :0)


them metal strips look a lot less trouble than the springs of old too...
 

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melon farmer
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JC - just a note - I had trouble re-seating the main seal between the freehub body and the hub shell. I couldn't just push the two together and get a good seal. The solution was to seat one half of this seal, and then use the blunt end of teaspoon to pop the remaining edges of the seal into place, while ensuring that a little bit of pressure was being applied to the freehub at the same time.

It's easy to tell if the seal hasn't seated properly as you will get crazy amounts of drag from the freehub.

Hope this helps someone - it took me about 2 hours and several hub re-assemblies to figure it out. My main seal was a very hard plastic and seemed a little on the large side. Took about 5 minutes once I worked out how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I didn't go to make it quieter. In fact, I made it louder. I like the sound.

After my first servicing, I inadvertantly added too much lube to the ratchet ring, using Prep M. It made it about as quiet as a DT 240. I use a different lube now that is slipperier and a smaller amount of it. The oem lube is some sort of blue grease, more viscous than PrepM, but they use a small amount because not all that much is needed anyhow.
 

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Thanks

...for taking the time to put this together.
I've had mine about 14 months and just got round to servicing the rear one after some creaking developed; the hub is still running smooth.

I suspect all the grease is washed out from the drive side cap and this moving against the hollow axle.

Unfortunately I found it is stuck on!

Now thanks to your thread I know where to apply effort without breaking anything!

Cheers,

Simon.
 

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Hope & White Industries Hubs

The internals to the Hope Pro 2 look almost exactly like the White Industries hubs. Does one company share the patent from the other?
 

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Hope vs. WTB rear hubs

J C I just finished to read the both threads about services of the Hopes and WTB rear hubs.
1. Wich one of them are better value
2. Are the parts of the Hope´s like hub body available in the states and from whom
3. Have the Hope´s bearings a special desing or you can buy the replacements in a baering wharehouse or retail shop.
This info will help me chosing the hubs for my new built.

Thanks
 

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Midle Age Warrior said:
J C I just finished to read the both threads about services of the Hopes and WTB rear hubs.
1. Wich one of them are better value
2. Are the parts of the Hope´s like hub body available in the states and from whom
3. Have the Hope´s bearings a special desing or you can buy the replacements in a baering wharehouse or retail shop.
This info will help me chosing the hubs for my new built.

Thanks
1) That is up to JC
2) https://www.hopetechusa.com/ has all the parts
3) The bearing are standard, so no worries.. check the diagram below

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cmadrigal/524784481/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1001/524784481_a1b63d882f_o.jpg" width="1459" height="2048" alt="hope Pro 2 diagram" /></a>
 

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converting from qr to 10 mm bolt-on?

Thanks for the great instructions!
To me, it seems like its possible to exchange the axle and rebuild the rear hub from qr to 10 mm bolt on. (or 12 mm of course)
Anyone tried this, and if - any advice?
-e
 

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Bookmarked!

Nice write up JC. Bookmarked! I found that the QR spacers come off by hand pretty easy.

daktari said:
Thanks for the great instructions!
To me, it seems like its possible to exchange the axle and rebuild the rear hub from qr to 10 mm bolt on. (or 12 mm of course)
Anyone tried this, and if - any advice?
-e
Yes it is possible, someone did it a while back and posted teh results on the Turner forum, using one of the new DT Swiss ratcheting TA's. You could also do it with the Hope TA.
 

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Thanks JC! I recently pulled my hub apart out of interest and just for the sake of it more then anything.

It had really only seen a twelve hour endurance event and a few rides from time to time over the last six months in great conditions. Just broken in! :D

As expected it was clean and like new inside, so I just pulled apart and cleaned up the engagement side of things and replaced the grease and did the seals. I used tentative amounts of Prep M to keep things loud and free, but as soon as I find something a little less viscous I’ll probably pull it apart again just for piece of mind.

Thanks again! :thumbsup:

Cheers, Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I contacted Hope about the lubricant and they recommended a Mobil grease, but I asked them where to get it, and the tech mentioned in reality, any lube is fine, like Prep M. Just make sure it's water resistant.

It's very touch to get the very slick automotive cv joint grease, as most are the more sticky ones.
 
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