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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had this front brake for a few years now. Never really warmed up to it. It had really not been used at all.I moved it from one bike to another tonite. When I turned the "90 degrees bolt" the system bleed. So I'll have to rebleed the stuff.

While I'm at it any suggestions replacement pads? maybe it's just the stock pads that make the brake so-so.
 

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What bike is the brake on?
How much do you weigh?
What is your predominant riding style?
What size rotor(s) do you use?
Who installed and set up the brake(s)?

Unless you're asking too much of what is effectively a cross-country brake, my guess would be poor set-up. There is, of course, the possibility that you just don't like the brake, but you should be certain that your set-up is spot-on and your current pads aren't glazed before you make a judgement.

Bleeding is simple, just follow the instructions in this link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What bike is the brake on? Jamis Exile 29er
How much do you weigh? 160 lbs
What is your predominant riding style? Light XC - I'm more of a roadie at this point
What size rotor(s) do you use? 160- Front Brake
Who installed and set up the brake(s)? Me, then the shop (improved but still not that impressive), now me again

I agree that setup is likely part of the problem but I seem to recall some fluid coming into contact with the pads last time I bled them. I looked at the ratings of the hope pads- seemed poor. I figure why not replace them at this point.

thoughts?

Thanks Mr. SteveUK.
 

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Hope makes both organic and sintered pads, so pick sintered if you want better grip, and organic if you want it to be quieter. I haven't seen 3rd party pads out there.
 

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Well, from what you've said, the Mini should be doing OK. Pad contamination shoudl be fairly obvious in that it'll either leave dark streaks on the rotor or the surface of the pad will look soft-glazed, if that makes any sense? If you're happy enough to get fresh pads, then so be it, but you could try sanding your current pads and re-bedding them into the rotor.

Have you tried adjusting the lever reach (with the adjuster pin that runs throught the brass barrel at the lever/body pivot)? It's often over-looked when setting the brakes up.
 
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