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Bulb vs. Pro II: Internal Differences?

I know that the Bulb has faster engagement (36 pt. vs. 24 pt.), a ti carrier (vs. aluminum on the Pro II) and that the Bulb is a bit heavier (due to the ti carrier). I like the faster engagement and the ti carrier and I don't care about the weight difference.

Is there any other reason I a person should consider the Pro II instead of the Bulb? What exactly has been changed internally on the Pro II? Are the Pro II's easier to maintain?

I remember an article somewhere (Singletrack or Bikemagic I think) that described some of the changes and I seem to remember them saying that the pawls had been moved to the carrier and that eliminated the chance of the springs popping out when you dissassembled the hub (or something to that effect). I can't remember exactly and I can't find that article now. If the Pro II hubs are significantly easier to maintain (i.e. clean and re-lube) than that would be a big selling point for me.

Thanks.
 

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Backmarker said:
I know that the Bulb has faster engagement (36 pt. vs. 24 pt.), a ti carrier (vs. aluminum on the Pro II) and that the Bulb is a bit heavier (due to the ti carrier). I like the faster engagement and the ti carrier and I don't care about the weight difference.

Is there any other reason I a person should consider the Pro II instead of the Bulb? What exactly has been changed internally on the Pro II? Are the Pro II's easier to maintain?

I remember an article somewhere (Singletrack or Bikemagic I think) that described some of the changes and I seem to remember them saying that the pawls had been moved to the carrier and that eliminated the chance of the springs popping out when you dissassembled the hub (or something to that effect). I can't remember exactly and I can't find that article now. If the Pro II hubs are significantly easier to maintain (i.e. clean and re-lube) than that would be a big selling point for me.

Thanks.
I have not cracked one open yet, but according to Hope, the pawl mechanism is completely different. In the bulb and xc hubs the pawls were spring loaded and only held in place by the tolerances inside the hub. So once you removed the freehub for maintenance the pawls and springs will fall out. Installation was a right pain, but a properly placed zip tie really helped out.

The new Pro2's use a pawl broach, much like the Hadleys and Profiles of old. If you havent seen one its basically a retaining clip that also acts as the pawl spring. The pawls are held in place by this clip so when you pull apart the freehub there are no loose parts.

The real advantage is that this prevents pawls from working loose inside the hub. Which will completely trash the drive gear. It also makes maintenance a snap.

If you think they are too loud, try a different lube. The XC and Bulb's used grease as a drive gear lube. Cleaned out and replaced with CK Ring Drive lube they are much quieter. Just make sure you replace it once a year. Grease lasts a lot longer then oil. I would also consider a synth gear oil, not sure what weight though.
 
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