[Alpenglow]

I have had carbon wheels a couple of years now. My light bicycle brand rims are very easy to inflate tubeless, and in the rare instance that I've flatted, the bead stays seated, and is easy to re-inflate. However, my beadless rovals on my race bike are much tuffer to seat the bead on. Even worse, the bead unseats when the tire is deflated and is virtually impossible to re-inflate tubeless trailside. Wondering if this was just me, or if anyone else had these issues. I use racing ralphs on the rovals.

 

[J_R_A]

Have you tried the same tire from the Rovals' and tried to seat them on the Light bike rims?


~JRA

 

[Alpenglow]

Yeah. It is fine on the the lb rims. I am just wondering if people are having trouble with beads unseating when they get flats on the hookless rims.

 

[SoCal-Rider]

Interesting. I recently got a set of LB hookless. When setting them up tubeless the tires did come unseated when I went to put in the sealant thru the valve stem. That's the first time I've experienced this in 4 years of tubeless.

I chalked it up to the non-TR Maxxis Ardents I'm using.

I might wrap another layer of Stan's tape on there the next time I change tires.

 

[changingleaf]

I've experienced the same when helping friends set up their Roval's. They do not have a horizontal bead seat. The bead seat seams to slope down into the center channel, so that when the tires loose air the bead falls away from the sidewall. Tighter tires may make inflation easier. The newer Roval's have been redesigned, but I can't be sure.

 

[Alpenglow]

Thanks. These are my racing wheels (ultra endurance races) and I may sell them. I love how fast the wheels roll and how stiff they are, but knowing that I will have to put a tube in if I flat, is a big concern. I had this happen in two races with them last year. It is also making me go back to IKONS as I never flatted with those.

 

[MTBMILES]

The Derby's have a horizontal ridge in the rim bed that has kept that from happening with my wheels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[plantdude]

Thanks. These are my racing wheels (ultra endurance races) and I may sell them. I love how fast the wheels roll and how stiff they are, but knowing that I will have to put a tube in if I flat, is a big concern. I had this happen in two races with them last year. It is also making me go back to IKONS as I never flatted with those.

If you get a flat on the trail that won't seal right up, won't you have to put a tube in any wheel, regardless? I guess if you carry extra sealant fluid you might be able to re-fill and then see if that works. But in a race situation, seems like you want the simplest and quickest fix that you know will work on the first try: pull out a tube, maybe boot the tire if it's a big hole/gash, mount it, inflate, back riding very quickly. Why spend the time messing with adding fluid when there's a chance it won't seal anyway. Personally, I just make sure to stay on top of having fresh sealant in there and hope for the best during races. Spending a long time fiddling with a tire trail side is surely going to cost you more time than adding a tube in your wheel will. Just my .02

 

[lptech]

I had trouble with the tire coming off my hookless recently:

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/lb-carbon-hookless-29er-xc-rims-927332.html

 

[bryan_d]

Hey OP,

That's too bad, even my non-tubeless super loose fitting Kenda Honey Badger takes some seriously wrestling to unbead on my Nextie 40mm.

When you are seating the tire does it give out the pronounced pings and pops?

Bryan

 

[Raybum]

did anyone figure out a solution to tires unseating when deflated on the hookless rims? (LB rims). Really kinda annoying to have to tube a tire trailside if a little stitching or superglue could keep things tubeless.