[eurospek]

You are right it shouldn't matter at all if the headtube is within the proper tolerances for the press fit. If the headtube is much under 43.7mm like you said it will squeeze the headset cup and probably make the bearing hard to get out like Eurospek is experiencing. That's the only thing I can figure that would make the outer race of that bearing hard to remove.

Euro, How hard did the upper cup go in when you pressed in the upper assembly?

Well the first upper assembly ended up being smashed up a bit on the lip, but I chalked that up to the novice guy pressing it in at the LBS. They were apologetic and replaced it with a whole new assembly without questions. Second assembly went it just fine, and when I was first building it last year, the upper bearing went it fine, sure it was harder to pop out than the bottom but it was still coming out without problem.

I'm thinking it's just seized up (I had a light coating of grease between cup and bearing) but next time I'm using some anti-seize paste instead. I'm thinking that the headtube can't be undersized, since the bearing was turning smooth by hand and never had problems when the fork was installed.

 

[p4nh4ndle]

Asnwer me this ... Figured I'd popped it by tapping it out, but only managed to break the cartridge bearing apart (got the inner race and bearings out), with the outer race of the bearing still seized to the upper headset cup.
Or did my bearing simply seized up in the cup?

Did you use the proper tool to tap the cup out by the skirt (i.e. a screwdriver or one of those flared pieces of pipe park sells), or did you just bash on the inner race of the headset bearing?

If it's the latter then, yes, you should have just left it alone.

 

[p4nh4ndle]

^this is basically what I'm aiming for, except in small & with a set of hand-built wheels. Glad to hear it's a winner.

 

[eurospek]

Good luck & keep us posted!

Got back from the LBS today, and first my tech wasn't able to grab the outer race from the cup, he then removed the whole upper assembly from the frame and the bearing race fell out of the cup. He measured the headtube and it's ever so slightly out of spec (really miniscule numbers from he told me). No 44mm reamer on hand yet ($40 btw to ream out top and bottom of headtube), but for the time being, he reinstalled the upper cup, rotated it a bit from the original orientation, and even had a spare new CC40 upper bearing on hand for me to use.

I'm going to reinstall it, use some anti-seize between the bearings and cups and run another season. When he'll get the reamer in the shop, I'll probably buy a new CC40 headset and get it properly reamed out. Overall, spent $20 and I'm riding again. :thumbsup:

 

[APSBiker]

Got my Honzo built up:



The important stuff:
Fox 29 Float 34 fork
X.9 type 2 rear der
SLX cranks with 32T chainring
11-36 cassette
X.0 10sp twist shifter
Kona flat pedals
XT M785 brakes, 160mm rotors
EC70 bar (uncut) and seatpost
no chainguide (but no issues with dropped chains yet!)

Soon to be built: dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims

Rode it a couple times so far, it's pretty awesome! One hell of a great bike.

 

[Ketchupsenf]

side view

nothing new excpet a new cog, now running 36:18.

 

[Sparticus]

Simple. Clean. Nice.

=S

 

[squads]

Got my Honzo built up:

View attachment 767529

The important stuff:
Fox 29 Float 34 fork
X.9 type 2 rear der
SLX cranks with 32T chainring
11-36 cassette
X.0 10sp twist shifter
Kona flat pedals
XT M785 brakes, 160mm rotors
EC70 bar (uncut) and seatpost
no chainguide (but no issues with dropped chains yet!)

Soon to be built: dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims

Rode it a couple times so far, it's pretty awesome! One hell of a great bike.

Nice! Is that a medium?

 

[Enduramil]

Got my Honzo built up:

View attachment 767529

I do like those old style decals and paint scheme.

 

[Sparticus]

Got my Honzo built up:

View attachment 767529

The important stuff:
Fox 29 Float 34 fork
X.9 type 2 rear der
SLX cranks with 32T chainring
11-36 cassette
X.0 10sp twist shifter
Kona flat pedals
XT M785 brakes, 160mm rotors
EC70 bar (uncut) and seatpost
no chainguide (but no issues with dropped chains yet!)

Soon to be built: dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims

Rode it a couple times so far, it's pretty awesome! One hell of a great bike.

Nice looking sled. I'm running mine SS at the moment but will put gears on it in a couple months. I don't intend to utilize the stock chainguide. From your photo, it looks like you're not employing any type of chain management device. Are you? I was thinking of using a Jump Stop (inside) and a bash guard outer. Yours looks really clean without the clutter. How's it going? You hit stuff? What's the travel on your fork? Thanks.

--sParty

 

[Ketchupsenf]

fyi:

It's a Rubberqueen in 2,2" (which is apparently similiar to the Mountain King in 2,4"). Im looking forward to the new Maxxis tires, especially the Highroller 2,3".

 

[APSBiker]

Nice! Is that a medium?

Yep. I ride 19" frames in the XC Konas I've had so this fits great.

Nice looking sled. I'm running mine SS at the moment but will put gears on it in a couple months. I don't intend to utilize the stock chainguide. From your photo, it looks like you're not employing any type of chain management device. Are you? I was thinking of using a Jump Stop (inside) and a bash guard outer. Yours looks really clean without the clutter. How's it going? You hit stuff? What's the travel on your fork? Thanks.

--sParty

Yeah, no chainguide, just the type 2 rear derailleur doing the work. I've done a few bumpy rides so far, no issues with chaindrop yet. I really think it will be fine with the extra tension the Type 2 provides. Probably gonna go for a med cage at some point though, just had this one lying around from when I went from triple to double on my XC bike.

Fork is the 140mm model, it's a great model. I really like the DTC settings now that I've had some time with the bike.

 

[dfuse]

So, first post here. I've been researching for some weeks about what bike to buy, I want to get back into biking properly. I used to ride a Trek 6500, an XC bike which I never felt really comfortable on. After much browsing, going to bike dealers, learning about different geometries and equipment, I decided to buy a Kona Honzo (pretty bummed that the 2013 model doesn't have the awesome matte blue finish ).

To further complicate matters, I want to build this bike myself (first time), so I'm only buying the frame, ánd I'm gonna try singlespeed. I've read this entire thread (and others) the last week so I'm pretty up to date about different components to use etc, but I don't find much information about what parts are needed to set this bike up as SS?

Ideally, I would like a front crank/ring that I can keep when I want to switch to gears, without installing a chain guide. Something like an SRAM XX1 (to which I would mate a x9 type 2 rear derailleur), but preferably a bit cheaper.

Also the rear hub, not to sure what to look for, I don't quite understand the difference between a freewheel and a casette hub. And as I understand it's difficult to find a 142x12 freewheel hub?

I'm going to my LBS for ordering the frame tomorrow, so I will ask him these questions too, but I like to be prepared as in the past I've been suckered into buying some shitty components for my commuter as the LBS just wanted to sell the stuff he had laying around.

Any other tips are welcome too!

 

[Max.]

You will be able to set it up SS if you swap the dropouts to QR. CMPHCCSS for the driveside and CMPHCCND non drive side. You have the choice of normal cassette rear wheel and then putting on spacers and single sprocket to get correct chainline. Think you mentioned something about putting gears on so that would be easiest option unless you want to buy two wheels.

 

[Sparticus]

So, first post here. I've been researching for some weeks about what bike to buy, I want to get back into biking properly. I used to ride a Trek 6500, an XC bike which I never felt really comfortable on. After much browsing, going to bike dealers, learning about different geometries and equipment, I decided to buy a Kona Honzo (pretty bummed that the 2013 model doesn't have the awesome matte blue finish ).

To further complicate matters, I want to build this bike myself (first time), so I'm only buying the frame, ánd I'm gonna try singlespeed. I've read this entire thread (and others) the last week so I'm pretty up to date about different components to use etc, but I don't find much information about what parts are needed to set this bike up as SS?

Ideally, I would like a front crank/ring that I can keep when I want to switch to gears, without installing a chain guide. Something like an SRAM XX1 (to which I would mate a x9 type 2 rear derailleur), but preferably a bit cheaper.

Also the rear hub, not to sure what to look for, I don't quite understand the difference between a freewheel and a casette hub. And as I understand it's difficult to find a 142x12 freewheel hub?

I'm going to my LBS for ordering the frame tomorrow, so I will ask him these questions too, but I like to be prepared as in the past I've been suckered into buying some shitty components for my commuter as the LBS just wanted to sell the stuff he had laying around.

Any other tips are welcome too!

Personally I'd steer clear of screw-on freewheels. There's much more flexibility in freehub / cassette in case you ever decide to run gears. I'm running my Honzo SS with the stock wheelset (142x12 TA rear hub) with spacers on the freehub body and just one cog. It may not be as elegant as a SS-specific rear wheel but I'll cheerfully accept the look of a spacer stack in order to gain the gearing options. I see no reason to exchange the dropouts for QR -- it's not that QR is a "bad" system, it's just that it's not as strong plus it's what the off-road cycling world is leaving in its dust.

--sParty

 

[dfuse]

Thanks guys, took me a while to google what you meant (somehow I always arrive at sheldonbrown.com when googling stuff like this, weird site, but has a lot of useful info). Ordered my frame today, should arrive in 3 days. On to researching the other parts!

 

[Singlespeed McGee]

Since I liked my Revelation so much, I decided to pick up the XX version and a new headset to go with it :thumbsup: No pictures yet as I'm still waiting on the lower cup but I'm looking forward to how this beast rips with 140mm up front.
Also on the list is a Reverb dropper post, the 12x142 dropouts and corresponding Hope axle kit; I have a line for a good deals on all of them.

 

[dfuse]

First obstacle: I can't figure out what type of crank is needed for this bike? For example, the SRAM XX1 front crankset is sold as GXP or as BB30, but I can't find out what the Honzo needs?

 

[PAmtbiker]

First obstacle: I can't figure out what type of crank is needed for this bike? For example, the SRAM XX1 front crankset is sold as GXP or as BB30, but I can't find out what the Honzo needs?

I believe you would need the GXP (or external bearing) version of any crank you buy. BB30 or BB92 or PF30 cranksets use a pressed-in bottom bracket bearing which this frame is not compatible with. Also, I might steer clear of the XX1 crankset as it is designed for a specific chain which might give you compatibility issues with a singlespeed cog. I could be wrong though, XX1 is too new for a lot of this info to be out yet. You can get any regular triple ring crankset (like an XT or something), buy a SS chainring from Salsa or Surly (they're inexpensive and durable), and a cog from Surly (same thing: inexpensive and durable), plus a cheap 8 or 9 speed chain and have a great SS setup. SRAM, Shimano, and FSA also make single ring specific cranksets if you want to go that route as well.

 

[dfuse]

Ok thanks. The reason I was considering (not decided yet, so expensive) the xx1 is that if I would decide later on to switch to an 1x setup, I wouldn't need a chainguide with the xx1. I've seen some people here trying the xx1 for a singlespeed, but as you said, it seems too soon for some feedback.