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Dianetics Junior
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I ran 120mm at first. Now I'm running 140. The extra travel really makes the bike more lively.
I am contemplating pulling the spacer and going 140. As climbing is not my strongpoint, have you noticed any ill effects while climbing with the extra travel?...love the custom rig, btw:thumbsup:
 

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So what's the 140 travel fork of choice these days? I sprang for an F29 when I got my other 29er - sadly still awol - damn you Pittsburgh :madmax: - but it seems, anecdotally, that while Fox has continued to increase their prices, their QC has gotten a bit slack. They've also gone almost exclusively to that bladder damper system; it seems a PITA to work on.

I like the idea of the on-the-fly multi-travel options that are being offered. Again, they seem to be more trouble than they're worth.

I know the sub-top-tier Revelation (RCT3?) has its detractors here because of fork height, but it seems like the most consistent workhorse fork and seems easy to source, to boot.

There is still too much snow on the ground here. I have too much time to think about this stuff.
 

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On second thought, strike the Rev. I'm leaning towards White Brothers, although that could easily change before I actually pull the trigger on a fork. All travel internals plus a threshold lockout mechanism kinda sells it for me.

Anybody have any strong opinions about why this is a bad idea?
 

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Out spokin'
In cog? Neato!
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On second thought, strike the Rev. I'm leaning towards White Brothers, although that could easily change before I actually pull the trigger on a fork. All travel internals plus a threshold lockout mechanism kinda sells it for me.

Anybody have any strong opinions about why this is a bad idea?
I'm a RS Rev fan. Got two, one on a DW Sultan and the other on the HonZo. I used to be a Fox guy but I never got full travel and my Fox forks didn't feel as plush in a linear way (hmmm... if that makes sense) compared to the Rev. WB is a bit too booteek to me... I've seen buds' WB forks suffer stiction, but I admit this was a few years ago. Maybe they're better nowadays.

I am contemplating pulling the spacer and going 140. As climbing is not my strongpoint, have you noticed any ill effects while climbing with the extra travel?...love the custom rig, btw:thumbsup:
I was fearful that climbing (slow speed) manners might be a problem with a ~67º HA... not so! The front end isn't too high (I'm running spacers under a rise stem plus rise bars, but then I'm 6'3") and I've never noticed any adverse wheel flop. Honestly, I'd try 160mm travel if there was a way to get it. Go for it!

--sParty
 

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I am contemplating pulling the spacer and going 140. As climbing is not my strongpoint, have you noticed any ill effects while climbing with the extra travel?...love the custom rig, btw:thumbsup:
Thanks! It climbs fine with 140. Didn't slow down my climbing at all. I never lock my fork out up hill so it's not like my fork is at 140 when I'm climbing out of the saddle. It's sagging. Try it out. You've got nothing to lose. You can always throw the spacers back in there. However, I do recommend you give it at least 3 or more rides to get used to the difference.
 

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Instagram: RayHowRAD
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Discussion Starter #529
Improvements

1. Muck Guard
2. 35t Renthal Chainring
3. E-thirteen Lg-1 bash/chain-keeper
4. XT Trail pedals

BTW, I have a set of black Canfield Crampon Ultimate pedals for sale, used only twice. All packaging and extra pins included. I've come to terms with the fact that I'm a SPD guy.:thumbsup: email me at [email protected] if interested.

FYI, with the Fox 34 set at 140mm the head angle is about 66.5 degrees according to my droid phone app, and the bottom bracket is at 12.6 inches (2.4 Ardent rear / 2.35 Hans Dampf front)





 

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My favorite 2013 so far! Looks killer with the new changes, and I told ya so, dropping to 130mm wasn't worth it. :D

No big hills around you? I couldn't imagine going bigger than a 33T for me really, how big is your cassette?

No more love for the D.O.S.S. either I see. :p
 

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Instagram: RayHowRAD
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Discussion Starter #531
My favorite 2013 so far! Looks killer with the new changes, and I told ya so, dropping to 130mm wasn't worth it. :D

No big hills around you? I couldn't imagine going bigger than a 33T for me really, how big is your cassette?
Thanks, and I believe you have the best looking 2012. There are some steep mountains out in Socal, but I stand 90% of the time, so gearing is fine. The cassette is 11-34t. Also, the bigger ring seems easier to push, maybe a mechanical advantage or just in my head.
 

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I've only gotten as far as bottom bracket chasing and facing. It needed it though. Head tube is quite out of spec as well.
Yep, I would definitely recommend anyone building up a Honzo from scratch, take the time to do the face/chase/reaming, especially the headtube- and it can be tricky to find a 44mm reamer. Another thing I learned building this bike, the cane creak headsets are probably a lot more tolerant of the head tube being undersize, since their skirts are shorter.

Anyways after a few weeks of sorting out my headset issues, finally got the Honzo out yesterday. Really fun bike! Corners great.... the chainstays are noticeably shorter than my old canfield yelli screamy. Fit is great for me personally- definitely close to the medium yelli. The brakes and used drivetrain parts need some more work, I am sure the sub-freezing temps weren't helping.

My build started out second-hand/ super budget, but ended up kinda blingy.
Honzo 16" frame, powdercoated locally
Fox float 34 rlc fork
Easton Haven Carbon wheels (shared with my Banshee Prime)
Chromag fubars OSX, uncut, 50mm chromag stem
King inset 7 headset
Formula the one brakes, 203mm F/ 180mm R
KS-i950r seatpost (3yrs old!)
Sram X9 shifters/derailuers, XT cranks, 32t front, 12/36 R
Blackspire chainguide
Straitline pedals (someday I'll get red AMPs)

Thanks again to Eurospek & Playdead for the build help!

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8381062834/" title="IMG_4983 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8189/8381062834_2ed10aa42c_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_4983"></a>

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Kona Front Derailleur Conversion

Firstly Hi,

This being my first post showing off my Shimano SLX 22-36T Hollowtech II conversion with Shimano XT dérailleur. I fitted a Black-Spire Stinger E type bracket and direct mount XT FD-M770 dérailleur to match, drilled the E type bracket for lowering the dérailleur nearer to the sprockets, fitted a Sram X7 gear change to match the rear .

I did away with the lower chain guide as it causes too much drag for my liking.

I picked up all the information I needed from this great site :thumbsup:

The conversion went straight forward, looks factory and importantly, works perfectly.

Being an average biker I needed a little assistance in getting up steeper climbs, this conversion will certainly work :D

I will post up pictures once I hit the required post count!


Andy
 

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Nice, KonaAndy. I'm sure you're aware, one small niggle with running a front derailuer is it will cut into your tire clearance when the deerailuer is in the granny gear position.

Speaking of which- happy to report the schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.35 does clear the Honzo chainstay yoke, with the sliders in the shortest position!
:thumbsup:

leaving for ride #2 in about :20.....
 

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i'm schralping yer thread
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Nice, KonaAndy. I'm sure you're aware, one small niggle with running a front derailuer is it will cut into your tire clearance when the deerailuer is in the granny gear position.
Sure, but how about the frozen marmot clearance...?

And why's that HLC logo all hazy...??? :crazy:
 

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Clearance would be an issue with the Ardent Maxis, I changed my tyres for hybrids because I don't ride anything more than light dirt track, so no need for full off road tyres :D. Good to know which tyres do give clearance though
 
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