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Soldering the fuse question and power cord Q

At the stage where I have to assemble and solder everything together execpt the fuse I have seems to be too long. The tabs stick out further than the width of the two batteries. What should I do here? Place something in between as a filler? Also, on the power cord, is there a difference which lead I solder to the negative and which to the positive?

Thanks again
 

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cheetos316 said:
At the stage where I have to assemble and solder everything together execpt the fuse I have seems to be too long. The tabs stick out further than the width of the two batteries. What should I do here? Place something in between as a filler? Also, on the power cord, is there a difference which lead I solder to the negative and which to the positive?

Thanks again

You can try putting the fuse inbetween the pack and the cord or attach some extra wire between the cells and the fuse to get it out of the way and then placing it flat against the pack. It doesn't matter for the cord so much but the center pin of the connector should be positive.
 

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Newly made pack not taking in full charge?

Just when you thought this thread was going to be gone! I finally got around to build the battery pack. Did it using the 4/3A Sanyo's from BatteryStation.com with a Raychem Polyswitch fuse and the coiled right angle connector from the cigarette adapter from allelectronics.com that the DIY lights faq suggested. After soldering everything together, I charged the battery pack with my microbrute charger. As soon as I connect the battery to the light, it goes into reserve mode. So I went out to get the Maha C-777 Plus to analyze the battery. I discharged and charged the pack a few times but it will say that the pack is full at like 1500 mah. What's going on here?

Also, thinking that I would have an extra battery to kick around, I bought an extra Niterider lamp off ebay. The lamp came missing the rubber grommet that is usually found on the lamps. Because of that, the connection is not as tight. The battery will flicker from on to off. Is there any way I can fix this?

Thanks!
 

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cheetos316 said:
Just when you thought this thread was going to be gone! I finally got around to build the battery pack. Did it using the 4/3A Sanyo's from BatteryStation.com with a Raychem Polyswitch fuse and the coiled right angle connector from the cigarette adapter from allelectronics.com that the DIY lights faq suggested. After soldering everything together, I charged the battery pack with my microbrute charger. As soon as I connect the battery to the light, it goes into reserve mode. So I went out to get the Maha C-777 Plus to analyze the battery. I discharged and charged the pack a few times but it will say that the pack is full at like 1500 mah. What's going on here?

Also, thinking that I would have an extra battery to kick around, I bought an extra Niterider lamp off ebay. The lamp came missing the rubber grommet that is usually found on the lamps. Because of that, the connection is not as tight. The battery will flicker from on to off. Is there any way I can fix this?

Thanks!
I don't know about Niterider part (is it a rubber grommet?), but the battery problem will need some troubleshooting. Measure the charged battery voltage and that should indicate if you've got a bad cell. Check all the connections and polarities to make sure everything is wired correctly. Post your findings and maybe someone can help. Maybe start a new thread to get everyone's attention...

Cheers
:cool:
 

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Sounds like something is wrong with your battery. It should be measuring higher capcity than that. Hopefully you haven't wrapped it up and sealed it yet. Like airman said, check the voltage on each cell and the overall pack. Fully charged, it should read around 1.3V for each cell and close to 15V for the whole pack.

On the cord, you may need to shave a bit off the platic molding around the connector to get deeper penetration on the connector barrel. This will give you a better chance to make a good connection on the center pin.
 

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Corrosion and rapid discharge Related to Dap Tex Foam

The same thing happened to my home built pack. I wrapped the entire battery assembly in clear heavy duty packing tape (3M) and then filled the bottle with some dap tex at the bottom, stuck in the assemly and filled the sides and top with dap, screwed on the bottle lid, and a few months later, the battery discharged on its own to about 4 volts due to the dap never curing properly, penetrating the poorly sealed battery assembly (3m packing tape) and causing the exact same corrosion that is captured in your photos on page 2 of this thread.

Perhaps Great Stuff will work better. Will try this next time. There goes another $60 on cells. And yet I keep making these things myself instead of just buying one pre-made. Stubborn I tell ya.

-Sliver


piercebrew said:
I'm sure that the batteries were set up correctly. I'm thinking that it was either the contact with the latex Dap stuff, or that something to do with my soldering, but I don't think so since they were pretty clean.
Here is another two pics. The last ones were in the micro "flower mode as well" but I think these are a bit better.
 

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Niterider Digital Pro 12-E Battery Replacement / Rebuild

I have a couple of Niterider Digital Pro 12-E models with the waterbottle battery and have had one rebuild in the traditional way of rebuilding the battery with the same cells and a more recent one rebuild with a Li-Ion battery back. The new Li-Ion solution is so easy and effective that I highly recommend going in this direction. Much less weight and will hold a charge much longer without bleed off like a Nimh pack. Here's how I did it:

Note: this info is only for this particular light. I have not tested it on any other light.

Bought this battery pack off of ebay from Tenergy battery company:

http://www.tenergybattery.com/index...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=27

With this battery charger:

http://www.tenergybattery.com/index...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=27

The pack is a 14.8 volt system but works fine with the 13.2 volt light and just makes it burn a little brighter. No problems after 6 months of weekly use.

Carefully open up the waterbottle battery and clip the two leads just above the battery.

Remove all batteries and packing contents around the battery until nothing is left in the bottom of the battery container.

Slide the prebuilt Li-Ion pack into the bottom half of the waterbottle battery container. It will be a tight fit and the plastic bottle container will ovalize but when you put the top back on it reform just fine. It is snug enough that you will not need anything else to secure it for normal riding. If your are doing some crazy extreme stuff then you may want to secure it with something more.

Solder the red to red and black to black, apply some adhesive on the joint and screw the top on the bottom.

Cut the plug off your old charger with about 6 inches of wire exposed and attach to bare wire leads that came with the charger.

Make sure the new charger is switched to the 14.8 setting and then plug the battery up to it.

Note: Do not plug the new charger into the cable going to the headlamp like you did before with the old charger. You only plug the new charger directly to the battery without involving the headlamp assembly in any way.

If its not obvious you cannot use your old charger. Only use the new charger.

I try and post some pictures soon.

These lights are very well built and will last a long time and with this simple battery upgrade have a long life span. The new LED lights are great and I would'nt mind having one myself but with this low cost upgrade you can extend your current investment in these lights or pick one up cheap off of ebay and rehab it with a new battery. I use my lights mainly for road riding at night and communting and this system, with the integrated and powerfull Niterider taillight, is by far the best and safest solution in my opinion. My lights are about 8 years old and are going strong with new batteries.
 

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Hi,

I've just read all the above. Quick question; can I use cells with the button on top in rebuilding, or should I stick to plain or tabbed cells? Looking around, 'buttoned' cells appear sometimes cheaper. There are no fundamental issues with soldering on buttoned cells, are there? Thx.

Paul
 
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