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13.2V can I make it from 11+ batteries?

I know that to build a replacement for my 13.2V NR classic battery, I need 11 1.2V batteries. Could I set it up so I have 13 or 14 batteries, and add the last two or three in parallel or a series, which ever way as to not increase the voltage but to increase the burn time on my NR light?
Forgive me for not knowing the technical terms.
Thanks.
 

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Ooohh, I should point out...

jeffj said:
If you look at f*nætik's picture and see the cells with the metal casing that look as if they are touching each other, look again. You will notice that the cardboard has been cut away (for whatever reason) on the outside of the cells and they are not actually touching each other metal case to metal case. I have had cells short out this way if you don’t insulate them from each other.
...that the batteries in the picture I posted of the open water bottle are the original Nite Rider batteries that I had already hacked at with a razor blade in the process of breaking the pack appart.

Those are C cells soldered end to end. I constructed my pack out of 4/3A cells which did not require stacking; the follow the side-by-side diagram illustrated in my O - O - O diagram in one of the previous posts.
 

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COOL BUZZ & TASTY S-TRACK
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Niterider battery plugs ends

Where could I get plug ends (old style niterider) that come from the battery and plug into the light cord / charger port of my old digital 12.

I want to build more than one replacement of my old battery?
 

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I make RC battery packs all the time for my other hobby (electric RC airplanes), and found that these plugs work really well. They are press-fit plugs that also pull apart with just a bit of intentional force (good if your battery departs from your light), and they are designed for up to 80 amps of juice (maybe more, but thats the most I have put through them). Cheap for a set too.

I am going to set up my batteries to use these plugs so I can charge my standard NiMH niterider batteries from my computerized peak detecting charger.

https://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/ULTRA-PLUG2.jpg
 

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COOL BUZZ & TASTY S-TRACK
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
battery plugs

Where could I get plug ends (old style niterider) that come from the battery and plug into the light cord / charger port of my old digital 12.

I want to build more than one replacement of my old battery?
 

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Do It Yourself
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FM said:
I got a related question....

Can I use my newer micro-brute charger (came with a storm HID) to charge my older 12v battery pack I made for my classic dual-beam?

I made this pack just like f*naetik's with Sanyo 4000mah's. The battery works great, but I don't get consistent charges with my old nite-rider "dumb charger" - mainly just becuase I'm never in one place long enough to give it a full charge. Understand I will need at least some sort of adaptor- does nite-rider sell this, or any tips on fabricating one?

Thanks a ton!

Absolutely. You can use the new Microbrute for your old Classic battery. You just need a connector adapter cable available from NiteRider.

http://www.niterider.com/Merchant2/...ode=NR&Product_Code=6466&Category_Code=Access
 

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Do It Yourself
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No

piercebrew said:
I know that to build a replacement for my 13.2V NR classic battery, I need 11 1.2V batteries. Could I set it up so I have 13 or 14 batteries, and add the last two or three in parallel or a series, which ever way as to not increase the voltage but to increase the burn time on my NR light?
Forgive me for not knowing the technical terms.
Thanks.
In theory parallel pairs would give you more burn time, there is absolutely no advantage to this. It will not charge properly. Besides, you get the same burn time from 2 separate packs and they are much easier to deal with. Just use the 11 cells.

If you are interested in using a higher voltage battery (more cells in series) you would need to build or buy some type of voltage regulator to feed a constant voltage to the light.
 

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Do It Yourself
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spacoli said:
Where could I get plug ends (old style niterider) that come from the battery and plug into the light cord / charger port of my old digital 12.

I want to build more than one replacement of my old battery?
Digikey recently added a good single ended cable to their catalog.

2.5mm x 5.5mm right angle connector with 18 AWG cable part # CP-2200-ND

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T041/0253.pdf

While you are ordering, you might want to pick up some resettable fuses as well. I would probably use one of these:

part # SRP350-ND or part # SRP420-ND

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T041/1130.pdf
 

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Good eye Homebrew....

That's a handy cable that, as far I know, has been previously unavailable anywhere (except those Radio Shack car lighter plug-ins that quickly disappeared).

Do you know of the existence of the female counterpart to that cable? or even a panel mount style? I cruised the Digikey catalog +/- a few pages form the one you referenced, but didn't see anything.
 

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alibi said:
That's a handy cable that, as far I know, has been previously unavailable anywhere (except those Radio Shack car lighter plug-ins that quickly disappeared).

Do you know of the existence of the female counterpart to that cable? or even a panel mount style? I cruised the Digikey catalog +/- a few pages form the one you referenced, but didn't see anything.
For the female, depends on the application. If you just want a panel mount, I picked one up at Radio Shack. BTW, this one fits PERFECTLY jammed up into the bit valve of a water bottle just remove the stopper in the middle of the valve.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.a...name=CTLG_011_003_005_000&product_id=274-1576

If you need an inline connector, I'm sure Digikey has them you just have to dig around. I don't have time right now. Here is another source though...

http://www.action-electronics.com/acadaptr.htm

These folks have the cable with the proper connector as well but I was unsure of the gauge wire used. Looks okay but you never know.
 

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Difference in 12V and 6V systems?

Was just looking at the Niterider site at the battery packs and noticed that they sell difference packs for different systems. There are 12V and 6V packs. Does it matter? According to the information from above, seems like everyone is just throwing 11 of the 1.2V 4/3A batteries together and getting the 13.2V. Would the 13.2V short out the systems that should take 6V. I have the old Digital Evolution and the site says that it should get the 6V battery pack.... Can I go for the 13.2V battery pack version? Would this affect the bulb life?

Thanks!
 

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cheetos316 said:
Can I go for the 13.2V battery pack version? Would this affect the bulb life?
You can't do this. You will blow your bulb immediately. As you can see from the chart below, as you increase voltage over nominal value, you exponentially decrease bulb life. They didn't go past 20% voltage increase in the chart because bulb life is already decreased about 90% at that point. Technobabble blah blah blah. Bottom line, just don't do it. Use a 6V battery for a Digital Evolution. The other folks were talking about the Nite Rider dual beam lights which take 13.2V batteries. The good news is the 6V packs are cheap. You can build a 5 cell 4500mAh pack for about $35 which will give about 2 hours burn time with a 15W bulb.



https://www.myra-simon.com/bike/lights.html#overvolting
 

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Couple more Q's

I think I'm starting to understand this all..... a couple of things I'm confused about though - so when you put the batteries together, the voltage adds up? A 6V battery will be made of 5 1.2V batteries and a 13.2V battery will be made of 10 1.2V batteries? When you put the batteries together, the capacity doesn't add up? The 5 4000mAh batteries will not be 80000mAh but is still 4000 mAh? On batterystation.com I see there are D batteries that are 9000mAh. Could I use 5 of those to make a 6V battery? I'm thinking this would give me twice the burn time as opposed to 5 4000mAh batteries, but would it work?

As for the battery pack itself, where can I get the 2.5mm x 5.5mm right angle connector with the cable? On digikey.com, they only sell the connector, but it would be great if I can get the connector with some cable attached to it, preferably in coils too. What are the resettable fuses for? Where do they come into play?

Thank you so much for your help!
 

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cheetos316 said:
I think I'm starting to understand this all..... a couple of things I'm confused about though - so when you put the batteries together, the voltage adds up? A 6V battery will be made of 5 1.2V batteries and a 13.2V battery will be made of 10 1.2V batteries? When you put the batteries together, the capacity doesn't add up? The 5 4000mAh batteries will not be 80000mAh but is still 4000 mAh? On batterystation.com I see there are D batteries that are 9000mAh. Could I use 5 of those to make a 6V battery? I'm thinking this would give me twice the burn time as opposed to 5 4000mAh batteries, but would it work?

As for the battery pack itself, where can I get the 2.5mm x 5.5mm right angle connector with the cable? On digikey.com, they only sell the connector, but it would be great if I can get the connector with some cable attached to it, preferably in coils too. What are the resettable fuses for? Where do they come into play?

Thank you so much for your help!
It all depends on how you wire the batteries. If you wire them in series you will be adding voltage and 5 1.2v 4000mah batteries will add up to 6v at 4000mah. If you wire them in parallel you will get a cell that is 1.2volts but will supply 20000mah of power.

Series is [- +}[- +}[- +}[- +}[- +} Then wires out to light from either end 6 volts 4000mah

Parallel:
|[- +}|
|[- +}|
|[- +}|
|[- +}| 1.2volts 20,000 mah
|[- +}| Wire out of the positive and negative terminal on the last battery here

Series parallel
|[- +}[- +}[- +}[- +}[- +}|
|[- +}[- +}[- +}[- +}[- +}|
| | 6Volt 8000mah

I am also interested in where the coil cable can be purchased.
 

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making a 13.2V battery

I had an idea for making an easy battery pack for my old NR classic, couldn't I just put 11 in a row in a PVC pipe the plastic water pipes with a spring at the bottom. Just like a big mag light?
 

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Yes, that would work...

piercebrew said:
I had an idea for making an easy battery pack for my old NR classic, couldn't I just put 11 in a row in a PVC pipe the plastic water pipes with a spring at the bottom. Just like a big mag light?
...just the same as those VistaLite Nightsticks, only really long.

<img src="https://www.vistalite.com/vistalite_03/NSC25.jpg">
 

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Kirchhoff

Voltage is additive in series but current stays constant. Current is additive in parallel but voltage stays constant. Capacity is just the rating of current over time.

For a quick electronics lesson...

http://www.physics.uoguelph.ca/tutorials/ohm/Q.ohm.intro.html
http://www.physics.uoguelph.ca/tutorials/ohm/Q.ohm.KVL.html
http://www.physics.uoguelph.ca/tutorials/ohm/Q.ohm.KCL.html

For 13.2V, you need eleven 1.2V cells not ten. And if you read my previous post, Digikey does sell the 5.5x2.5 connector on an 6 ft 18awg cable...

2.5mm x 5.5mm right angle connector with 18 AWG cable part # CP-2200-ND

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T041/0253.pdf (bottom of the page)

While you are ordering, you might want to pick up some resettable fuses as well. I would probably use one of these:

part # SRP350-ND or part # SRP420-ND

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T041/1130.pdf
 

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Kirchoffs Rules or Ohms Law

Homebrew said:
Voltage is additive in series but current stays constant. Current is additive in parallel but voltage stays constant. Capacity is just the rating of current over time.

For a quick electronics lesson...

http://www.physics.uoguelph.ca/tutorials/ohm/Q.ohm.intro.html
http://www.physics.uoguelph.ca/tutorials/ohm/Q.ohm.KVL.html
http://www.physics.uoguelph.ca/tutorials/ohm/Q.ohm.KCL.html

For 13.2V, you need eleven 1.2V cells not ten. And if you read my previous post, Digikey does sell the 5.5x2.5 connector on an 6 ft 18awg cable...

2.5mm x 5.5mm right angle connector with 18 AWG cable part # CP-2200-ND

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T041/0253.pdf (bottom of the page)

While you are ordering, you might want to pick up some resettable fuses as well. I would probably use one of these:

part # SRP350-ND or part # SRP420-ND

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T041/1130.pdf
Hey Homebrew,

Thanks for the digikey tip, I found it in a previous post but was being a numbnuts about digging through their catalog. I am interested in the fused switch you add. Is this to avoid shorting out your battery or will it possibly throw when your battery is charged and begins to get hot due to increased resistance. It says that it provides noncycling protection but I am not really sure what that is. You seem very knowledgable on the subject; what is your background? I am a High School Physics teacher so I know the electricity stuff but I have limited practical experience.

You have been extremely helpfull on this subject and I would like to extend my gratitude.
 

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One thing to add on the coiled wires: An issue I have with them is that if I run them with lights of 20w or less they work fine, but if I try to run mine with both the 20w and the 15w lights running at the same time, the wire is not large enough to handle the demand for 35w of light output. The lights dim to the point of them both being about as bright as the 20w light by itself. If you are going to run more powerful lights, you need to find some heavier gauge wire (probably 16 or 14).
 
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