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monster member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,

Wanting to close up a very loose bottom bracket of my g/f's 2007 Trek 4500 WSD, I figured I'd pull the crank arm off. I took out the bolt to find a square-taper type recess in the crank arm. So I got my 20-year-old square taper tool out but it didn't work because I found that the shaft is hollow. It only mangled the pin of my tool. (Luckily it didn't seem to hurt the female threads inside the shaft.)

The crankset is called: Shimano MC09 42/32/22.
The only sticker on it is "Shimano". Looking for help at the Park Tool website, I couldn't find a picture or description that matched in a very confidence-inspiring way, but if I had to guess, then I'd guess this is applicable:

Crankarm Removal-Non-One-Key-Release Type

For oversized pipe billet crankarms not using the one-key-release system, such as some ISIS Drive® and some Shimano® systems, use Park Tool CWP-7, or CCP-44. These removers use a large rotating tip that fits over the end of the spindle.

I tried looking up MC09 on the Shimano website, but couldn't find anything with that model number. I really don't even know if that crankset is Deore, or Acera, or what. All it says is Shimano.

It appears my old tool is the right design, but the pin needed to be about 2mm larger diameter to match the OD of the bb shaft better.

Anyone know what I'm talking about? Is my guess correct that it's a "Non-One-Key-Release" type?

It's frustrating how many special tools are needed to work on cranksets spanning 20 years! :madman:
 

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monster member
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay, how about the bb?

Hey, that little plug looks good (aka cheap). Okay, I'll look for that.

Then, it looks like there's a cap with a funny inside shape to it, kinda like a cassette lock-ring pattern. Here's a pic:



Does that take a special tool too?
 

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Can we see the rest of that

Wheelspeed said:
Hey, that little plug looks good (aka cheap). Okay, I'll look for that.

Then, it looks like there's a cap with a funny inside shape to it, kinda like a cassette lock-ring pattern. Here's a pic:



Does that take a special tool too?
celeste beauty
 

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Old man on a bike
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Wheelspeed said:
Hey, that little plug looks good (aka cheap). Okay, I'll look for that.

Then, it looks like there's a cap with a funny inside shape to it, kinda like a cassette lock-ring pattern. Here's a pic:



Does that take a special tool too?
For removing the bb itself you need the Park BBT 22 or 32 or similar.
 

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The bottom bracket looks like a cartridge, they're not adjustable. You just replace 'em when they develop play. Remember that the right side of the cartridge is left-hand thread and be sure to get the right length spindle and shell width. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay, guys, obviously I don't know what I'm doing. I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row, figuring that if I have to order one tool from somewhere, I might as well order everything I'll need at once.

Her cranks move side-to-side about 3/8" (!) They don't wobble, so it doesn't seem the bearings are bad or loose, but the entire crankset just slides evenly back and forth through the bb tube. Strange to me, but I'm used to old-school loose-ball bbs.

I'm also lost because I don't know what this crank is and can't find an exploded diagram or anything. Anyone know what this crank or bb is? TrekBikes website here http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2007/archive/4500wsd just calls it Shimano MC09, but I can't find that on the Shimano site.

In any case, maybe someone is bored enough to help me...

Once I get the arm off, does everyone agree that I can't adjust the bb? That'd be irritating because she only has about 200 miles of road rides on that thing. I'd be interested in what type of better bb would fit that would last longer. Or, I may just look at picking up an LX HollowTech set with outboard bearings to match my new XT cranks I recently bought for my bike (along with the Shimano Hallowtech bb tool.) It's always nicer to work on bikes when they have similar parts.

Or, has any shade-tree mechanic out there figured out a way to adjust the play out without replacing the bb?

Lastly, maybe I shouldn't worry about it for awhile? It still seems to shift okay for her, and like I said above, the bearings seem good, it just moves side to side, without any wobble.
 

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Wheelspeed said:
Or, I may just look at picking up an LX HollowTech set with outboard bearings to match my new XT cranks I recently bought for my bike (along with the Shimano Hallowtech bb tool.) It's always nicer to work on bikes when they have similar parts.

Lastly, maybe I shouldn't worry about it for awhile? It still seems to shift okay for her, and like I said above, the bearings seem good, it just moves side to side, without any wobble.
I would either go toward replacing it with something similar to your XT set so you only need the one set of tools, assuming you have committed relationship and she's not going to dump you once you overhaul the bike, Or as you say just leave it alone and maybe you and her decide to get a new bike later on.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay, I found the plug tool and bb extractor.

Only thing left is, can you tell what that bottom bracket is? This one?

LX Square Taper UN54...



(Seeing the picture now, I see what you mean why I can't replace the bearings or adjust anything... seems it's just like Hollowtech but with internal bearings instead of external.)
 

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What you have is most likely a cheaper shimano or a no name knockoff of a cheaper shimano. The UN54 is actually a decent quality part, though not exactly light weight. You might consider using it as a replacement. They usually retail for $20-30. A UN72, 73 or 74(?) would be a nice upgrade in the square taper style. They use a hollow spindle for light weight. And they are still not that expensive. The 54 is LX level, the 70 series is XT.
 

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It may just be that the BB is loose inside the shell (bike frame). Either way you will need a BB tool. Get one that has a deeper recess as older tools may not fit over newer spindles.
You may be able to pull the crank arm off by leaving the retaining bolt halfway in and pushing against that, a smaller bolt,or using a rod to brace against the other sides bolt, these options require some mechanical know-how.
It is common for low end bottom brackets to be used in entry level bikes and upgrading to an LX or XT is a good idea. Information on size is stamped on the BB and axle.
 
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