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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a hitch rack (Raxter 2-bike) and am trying to figure out a good way of securing two bike while I'm at work. I park in a low crime area in my works parking garage. I was thinking about getting a "cut-resistant" security chain of about 6' from mcmaster.com ($5/foot) in the 10mm size. I'm trying to decide if I should go with a 13mm chain or a 10mm cut-resistant chain. I'm thinking if the chain is thick enough that it won't fit in bolt cutters than I won't have much else to worry about.

What is more important in a chain; link diameter, heat treating (cut resistance but doubles the price), or breaking strength (schedule 30 versus schedule 70)?
 

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willevans said:
I just got a hitch rack (Raxter 2-bike) and am trying to figure out a good way of securing two bike while I'm at work. I park in a low crime area in my works parking garage. I was thinking about getting a "cut-resistant" security chain of about 6' from mcmaster.com ($5/foot) in the 10mm size. I'm trying to decide if I should go with a 13mm chain or a 10mm cut-resistant chain. I'm thinking if the chain is thick enough that it won't fit in bolt cutters than I won't have much else to worry about.

What is more important in a chain; link diameter, heat treating (cut resistance but doubles the price), or breaking strength (schedule 30 versus schedule 70)?
Even small bolt cutters will fit 12mm links in their jaws. I think you want a hardened chain, so at least they struggle to cut it.

I've seen plenty of videos of 48"ish bolt cutters going through even the largest chains. At least one of those videos was of a thick ABUS chain (and highly regarded), which should have been hardened.

I have two chains, an 8' ABUS noose-style in 12mm square links, and a 5' Kryptonite with 11mm hex links. The noose-style is more useful, but the Kryptonite is way way burlier.

Check out http://www.lockitt.com/chain.htm for a variety of chains (and if you follow the links up, cables), mostly intended for motorcycle use, but also work well for locking bicycles if you can leave it in your trunk when not in use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I was trying to get about 8 length for less than $100 and there is no way I could do that with both a large and hardened chain so I went with hardened over huge. I could always get a 20mm chain from McMaster-Carr and not worry about any bolt cutter, just power tools.
 

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First thing is that if someone "really" wants it they are going to take it either way and do it with whatever they need to do it with.

I have used the Master Lock Python and have no issues with it at all. It cinches on itself and is long enough that I go through the to hitch chain hook areas as well as the bike so all things are covered. I got mine at Lowes for like $20ish. It is all about at least putting something on there to deter someone from coming to get it.

http://www.masterlock.com/cgi-bin/p...&displaynav=&sub_cat_id=D8418C&template=style
 

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Ral83178 said:
First thing is that if someone "really" wants it they are going to take it either way and do it with whatever they need to do it with.

I have used the Master Lock Python and have no issues with it at all. It cinches on itself and is long enough that I go through the to hitch chain hook areas as well as the bike so all things are covered. I got mine at Lowes for like $20ish. It is all about at least putting something on there to deter someone from coming to get it.

http://www.masterlock.com/cgi-bin/p...&displaynav=&sub_cat_id=D8418C&template=style
not to jack the thread but how do you go about using something like this?? i dont understand how your doing it.
 

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cth978 said:
not to jack the thread but how do you go about using something like this?? i dont understand how your doing it.
Here is a pic of my set up. I also did the same thing when I had a hanging type rack.

Hope this helps you fellas out.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Ral,

Thanks for the pictures! I live in a higher-crime area (I'm assuming because no one around here would even think of using a cable) and made a long chain Kryptonite knock-off with some raw materials I ordered online. https://flic.kr/p/3672766165
I plan to use it the same way though, looping through both frame and wheels and car frame.
 

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Does anyone know if your car insurance will cover the theft on a hitch rack? I imagine if the bike is inside the car they will. Might be a good reason to put the bike in the car if its covered. I'd gladly pay the $500 deductible for a new 5 spot.
 

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thebronze said:
Does anyone know if your car insurance will cover the theft on a hitch rack? I imagine if the bike is inside the car they will. Might be a good reason to put the bike in the car if its covered. I'd gladly pay the $500 deductible for a new 5 spot.
I believe home owners or renters insurance would apply for the bike, car insurance would cover the rack - provided serial numbers, reciepts, etc. were available to prove ownership in the first place.

The sad fact is that if someone wants your bike - they're going to get it. A cordless sawzall can make short work of just about anything... I use the theory of making other bikes easier to get.
 

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thebronze said:
Does anyone know if your car insurance will cover the theft on a hitch rack? I imagine if the bike is inside the car they will. Might be a good reason to put the bike in the car if its covered. I'd gladly pay the $500 deductible for a new 5 spot.
I believe home owners or renters insurance would apply for the bike, car insurance would cover the rack - provided serial numbers, reciepts, etc. were available to prove ownership in the first place.

The sad fact is that if someone wants your bike - they're going to get it. A cordless sawzall can make short work of just about anything... I use the theory of making other bikes easier to get.
 

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Here's how I view this issue:

I see my rack holding not a bike, but a clear, see-through bag of money. Everyone and anyone can see this bag of money. While the majority of people will respect your bag, there are plenty of POS low-lifes that seek out these situations to prey upon people like you and I. Armed with this knowledge, one should view ALL "security devices" as "time-consuming devices". Property using these "time-consuming devices" will take more time for the thief to steal your bag of money. Once you understand this concept, you decide where and for how long you will leave your unattended bag of money. And this concept can be applied at home, anywhere.
 

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So I wanted something that would cause potential thieves to take a camera phone picture (thanks willevans, I did like you Flickr pics) of the lock instead of trying to steal the bike. It has always been a gut-wrenching thing to leave my bike on the back of the car; I used a thick cable with a reasonably burly padlock, but always knew that was only protection from someone grabbing the bike while I had my back turned. Anytime we'd stop for lunch/dinner after a ride, I'd always need to park the car and sit where it could be seen.

We're starting to take bikes on our (driving) vacations now that my son is older, and keeping the car in sight at all times is impossible, and taking a beater that would be left alone is undesirable.

I mentioned previously I had an 8' ABUS noose and a 5' Kryptonite. Below are pics for a comparison of their (and the locks) sizes, as well as in use. I've used the noose as pictured the most, but it can also be used to do a girth hitch around the hitch and then terminate the chain at one of the frame tube using the u-lock. That might actually be the most effective way of locking it, since there would be less for a bolt cutter to get access to and with less leverage options.

I have complete confidence in the setup, and suspect any potential thief will move on. I won't leave the bikes in the parking lot of a hotel overnight, but for all other purposes I have no fear the bikes will be gone when I get back.



 

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cth978 said:
very nice. is there a site where you can find that same chain??
Check my first post in this thread for a link (I think the second post in the thread).

Do look at willevan's Flickr posting though, since you could probably homebrew something for less.

I wanted a noose-style chain, and the only place I could find that in a long length was in the pre-made ABUS. The noose is very practical since you don't need to double the length of chain to get back to your anchor, however if this is something that gets stored in your trunk, the extra length/weight might not matter. Had I known you could get the protective sleeves from McMaster (that was one of the first places I looked when I was searching for raw chain), I might have done what will did.
 

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SSearchVT said:
I believe home owners or renters insurance would apply for the bike, car insurance would cover the rack - provided serial numbers, reciepts, etc. were available to prove ownership in the first place.
.
What he said is correct about how coverage would apply.
 

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Ral83178 said:
Here is a pic of my set up. I also did the same thing when I had a hanging type rack.

Hope this helps you fellas out.

Tom
Thanks, Tom. I went out and bought the Python at Lowes. It's a nice design for what many of us need. For those interested, they also had a 20 ft. MasterLock Python that would probably work with a 4 bike set up. It seems like a nice medium security lock. I wouldn't use it to lock up my bikes in the hood over night but it's enough to make me more comfortable running into a restaurant after a ride.
 

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Dewalt is bad for bikes

View attachment cut off grinder.bmp

Unfortunetly this little item here has made all locks,cables, and chains obsolete. I have one at work (chairlift construction) and it will pretty much will cut through anything.
2" anchor bolts no problem. Granted it's noisy but.....
Seems like all you can do is slow the procces down.

Mabey a trigger device to a can of bear spray:D

Some kid would probably set it off and you'd get sued though
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
bigskyguy,

I see what you did there.

I agree if you bring a tank to a gun fight you'll win, but it doesn't hurt to try to educate people what will slow down a thief and what will actually invite a thief to try to take your stuff. After seeing a 15mm cable cut with wire pliers I've never recommended them for keeping your bike safe for any length of time.

With a big enough tool you can cut through a U-lock with a $3500 policy, but it won't be as easy as a cable or small chain.
 
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