[av_boy]

Hola Amigos.

I have finally taken the leap and have started building a SS to ride on T.I.T.S. Of course, there will be much suffering in private before I join you for my punishment. You guys have already made me puke, and have seen me knocked silly but you havent seen me cry... yet.

More parts are in the mail... except for tires! I wanted to get a large volume tire on the rear, but thanks to the help of the guys in the Niner forum, and a really old post from a tech at Niner, it looks like I am pretty constrained on the rear tire size.

Here is the list of tires that fit the rear of my model year of One9 (this list was made in '06 and copied from here: https://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=2313180&postcount=7)

No tubes - The Crow
Schwalbe - Little Albert
Bontrager - XR 1.8
Kenda - Klaw
Kenda - Karma 1.9 and 2.2
IRC - Mythos
WTB - Nano
WTB - Exi
WTB - Moto raptor
Maxxis - Ignitor

What are you guys running on your 29ers? I was thinking about the Fire XC pro (29) since that is what I had been running on my 26er. Ideas?

 

[jake7]

av_boy
congrats on the new ride. I'm looking forward to seeing the build progress.
Do you have your wheels ordered/built yet? Do you have UST compatible rims?
I prefer running tubeless wheels, but my 9'er Stumpy HT came with DT Swiss 470 rims - not UST compatible.
Easy fix- ordered Stan's rim strips and converted to tubeless in 30 minutes. They work well and allow me time to save my pennies for a nicer wheel set.

On tires, used to run the Fires (26") and liked 'em. Switched to the Ignitor (26") 2.35 UST and found that what made the biggest difference (to me, anyway) was being able to run lower pressures with the tubeless setup. The lower pressure will make any tire hold better without the worry of a pinch flat. (holy crap, this is turning in to a "best tire for the front range" thread )
On my 29'er I am currently running the Specialized Fast Track 2bliss. More of an XC tire, which fits with where I generally ride the hard tail. Again, for me it's not so much the tire as the pressure I can run it at given the trail conditions.

 

[cbrock450]

Maxxis Ignitor 2.1 in the back.

 

[av_boy]

I have Larry at Mountain High Cyclery in Loveland building me up some CK/Stan's Arch wheels. The arch rims can run regular tires tubeless without the conversion kit. They are also built with short sidewalls so you can run tires at lower pressures.

I dont think a 2.35 will fit in the rear... the 2.1 should.

 

[Shrederland]

ignitors

 

[cbrock450]

Nice wheels!

I am running CK hubs on my ss as well. Make sure to keep them lubed, i fried the outboard bearings on mine this year. $20 fix but it still sucked!

You are in luck..... maxxis does not make the ignitor in a 2.35 for the 29, just 2.1

 

[PBR me!]

Well since my 29er is still runnin 26 in the back

I am running a Ignitor 2.35 Good lookin bike, cant wait to get the rides goin again! :thumbsup:

 

[av_boy]

Yeah, I had engagement problems on the snowy TITS ride at BC with my 26er CK hubs. I had neglected servicing them since I have had them (like 4 years). I read that the grease used by default isnt good in cold weather anyway. I took em apart, cleaned em up, lubed them with Mobil 1 synthetic oil.... and they are running beautifully in the cold weather now.

When I disassembled the King hub, I was struck by the beauty of it... its like art.

Thanks guys, sounds like the ignitor is the way to go for the rear. Does it work just as well in the front?

 

[cbrock450]

I have never run the ignitor in the front. I usually go with something that has a little more volume.
I have heard good things about the rampage up front. I was running thew WTB Weirwolf LT 2.55 in front and it was ok. It was a pretty fast tire but was not that great in loose corners.

I am running the WTB Prowler up front and i really like it. The only drawback is that it won't last very long since it's a race compound tire.

 

[mountaingoatepics]

AV Boy, Be careful of the ignitors. Could never get one to last me longer then a few rides before I tore the sidewall. Whatever you get, run a tubeless tire. I'm currently running a Specialized Captain Control 2Bliss rear tire and a Rampage on the front.

 

[dancruz]

I had the same problem with my Maxxis Ardents getting sliced on the sidewalls. Running tubes now just to use up tire life. Think I'm going back to the Rampage. Hey Av-boy..I had Larry get my wheels also(Industry Nine with Stansflow rims). Sweet wheels after the break in period. Jonesing to ride so we are heading to Pueblo tomorrow. I'll post pics.....

 

[jake7]

I run the 2.35 Ignitors front and rear on my 26"er - works fine up front for me

 

[av_boy]

Well, I ordered my last batch of goodies today... went with the rampage front/ignitor rear ( crossing fingers!)

My bars came in! (yeah they have scuffs... they are from ebay, like most of my parts)

This is my first bike with disc brakes and I am not satisfied with how I routed the front brake cable... I also tried routing it to the right side of the headtube, but it seemed a little short. Is how I did it fairly typical?

 

[chuckjoga]

Got the WTB Exiwolf on my Cannondale 1FG 29er SS as stock tires. Seems to be a good tire and light. But, they wore out in 1 season and the rear started slipping more when hammering uphill in looser terrain.

Got Kenda Nevegal (Dual Compound) on my Motobecane 29er SS as stock tires. I can't complain about the traction, handling, and volume. And they hook up pretty well. I have 2 seasons on these tires and will probably be able to run them through next summer. I run these on my FS 26er also.

If I didn't pick up a cheap set of Intense System 29 tires, I'd be getting a set of Nevegals for my Cannondale. Maybe I'll try to go with a tubeless setup in 2011.

-Chuck

 

[chuckjoga]

Route it in front of the steering head, ahead of the fork arch to inside the left fork leg so it can't snag on a rock, branch, etc. Use zipties to keep it from getting into the tire.

Looks like you're missing the brake hose guide that screws into the little hole in the front of your fork.

-Chuck

Well, I ordered my last batch of goodies today... went with the rampage front/ignitor rear ( crossing fingers!)

My bars came in! (yeah they have scuffs... they are from ebay, like most of my parts)

This is my first bike with disc brakes and I am not satisfied with how I routed the front brake cable... I also tried routing it to the right side of the headtube, but it seemed a little short. Is how I did it fairly typical?

 

[canyonrat]

What year is the Niner? I had a 2007 that same color and I seem to recall the chainstays being quite spacious.

If I remember right from the last BC ride we talked and you live like a mile or two from me. I have a pretty large semi-used tire collection if you want to try a few things for clearance let me know, or if I can help at all with any build issues. For starters...Anti-Seize the heck out of that EBB if you have the old set-screw model. I got mine from Ace hardware, the kind they use on auto spark plugs.

That frame color is going to look sweet with the Fox. Have fun!

 

[av_boy]

Thanks for the offer, I will likely take you up on it!

When I bought the frame/fork on ebay, the seller said it was an 07 or 08... however, I posted the pic of the frame in the Niner forum and they said it was an 06 or earlier. Niner made the rear with more tire clearance starting in 07. (I am almost certain that the bike in this post is the same model year as my bike... same color too! http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=2309451&postcount=1 Notice that he has a 2.2 bontrager that rubs in the pics on that post )

It is the old style EBB with the set screws. Are you saying I need to anti-sieze the EBB itself, or the set screws?

 

[canyonrat]

Thanks for the offer, I will likely take you up on it!

When I bought the frame/fork on ebay, the seller said it was an 07 or 08... however, I posted the pic of the frame in the Niner forum and they said it was an 06 or earlier. Niner made the rear with more tire clearance starting in 07. (I am almost certain that the bike in this post is the same model year as my bike... same color too! http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=2309451&postcount=1 Notice that he has a 2.2 bontrager that rubs in the pics on that post )

It is the old style EBB with the set screws. Are you saying I need to anti-sieze the EBB itself, or the set screws?

Ah, well..Niner ought to know.

For the Anti-seize, that was better at eliminating EBB-creak than regular grease for the Niner EBB. You put it on the shell, the ridges of the EBB body, basically anywhere you expect metal-on-metal contact. Since I had it handy I used to use it on the screws also. The other primary approach for that EBB to prevent creaking is to use a plumber's teflon tape wrapped around the contact ridges of the EBB body, not too thick so you can still get it into the shell. I am sure you can advanced-search the Niner or the 29er Bikes forums with terms like "niner ebb creak" and find a bunch of info on the old EBB. I believe the new Bio-Centric insert is also compatible with the previous EBB shells if you get the urge to upgrade later.

 

[av_boy]

Finally! The wheels were finished and its put together!

Question... I took it outside to shake it down, and the brakes kinda sucked. I havent had disc brakes before so I am not sure how to diagnose them. They feel like they engage but they dont ever lock down and. Almost like there is no friction. They are Avid Elixir CRs (that I bought on ebay). Any ideas?

 

[mountaingoatepics]

Nice lookin ride Sean. Why don't you bring it down to Pueblo with me tomorrow? Give me a PM with your number if your interested.

On the Brakes I have the Elixir R's. You should have 2 adjustment points...One for lever reach and one for pad adjustment. Lever reach is the small dial near the pivot point of the lever. Make sure it is set to have the lever to the max lever throw. The pad adjustment should be a red barrel at the brake line end of the brake lever...make sure it is set to have the pads hitting the rotor with the levers pulled to within 1 inch of the grip...a little squish is normal...if the lever pulls all the way to the grip...you need a bleed. Otherwise you might want to sand your pads and rotors in case the pads are glazed.