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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm putting together my race bike for next season. I will be doing a few XC races but focusing on Enduro and XXC with a 100 miler or so thrown in.

Here is my build so far. Can you find places to loose weight while not spending crazy amounts of additional money and not giving up strength (adding strength would be best).

Frame Stijl Custom
Fork Lefty XLR
Adapter Experimental Prototype
Headset Crank Bros Cobalt SL
Stem Ritchey WCS Carbon
Headset Spacers Extralight Delrin
Bars Ritchey Superlogic 10D
Grips ESI Chunky
Front Brake Formula R1
Rear Brake Formula R1
Brake Rotor F R1 160
Brake Rotor R R1 160
Front Derailleur Shimano XTR
Rear Derailleur Shimano XTR SGS
Shifters Shimano XTR
Cassette Shimano XTR 11-36
Chain Shimano XTR
Crankset Shimano XTR
Charinrings Included in crank
Bottom Bracket Shimano XTR
Pedals Crank Bros Eggbeater 3
Wheelset Stans Crest/ DT Revo/ ZTR rear Cannondale SL Front
Tires F/ ??: R/ ??
Skewers Cannondale front/ Rear ZTR
Saddle Fizik Gobi XM
Seatpost Crank Bros Cobalt 11
Seat Binder Thomson
Bottle Cages King Steel
Derailleur Cables XTR


Still haven't decided on my tires yet.
 

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not sure of the weight/price difference but king ti cages instead of steel maybe? other than that looks like a super solid build, looking forward to see it built. whats the frame weight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jordanrosenbach3 said:
not sure of the weight/price difference but king ti cages instead of steel maybe? other than that looks like a super solid build, looking forward to see it built. whats the frame weight?
Thanks. I'm looking forward to it as well.

As for the cages, price difference is around $16 for steel and $50 for Ti.
 

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Nice build, I would run.
Grips - Hi Temp42 or Extralite foam glued on.
Stem oversize? - If 90mm or longer Extralite. If its 70 or 80mm an Ibis tuned with Ti bolts ( very cheap $ wise) Ibis 70mm = 91 grams. 80mm = 93 grams.
Cables - I-Links.
Seatpost - New Ultimate. I wouldn't trust Crank Bros. stuff for long distance events.
Tires - Rocket Ron 2.25 F&R. If you need more traction for Enduro events Rocket Ron 2.4 front & Race King supersonic 2.2, this is still a nice light set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
xc71 said:
Nice build, I would run.
Grips - Hi Temp42 or Extralite foam glued on.
Stem oversize? - If 90mm or longer Extralite. If its 70 or 80mm an Ibis tuned with Ti bolts ( very cheap $ wise) Ibis 70mm = 91 grams. 80mm = 93 grams.
Cables - I-Links.
Seatpost - New Ultimate. I wouldn't trust Crank Bros. stuff for long distance events.
Tires - Rocket Ron 2.25 F&R. If you need more traction for Enduro events Rocket Ron 2.4 front & Race King supersonic 2.2, this is still a nice light set up.
Thanks for your advice. I have looked at these things but want something a bit more durable.

Have you had, or seen, a Cobalt 11 post fail? I can understand a bias towards a product/company, but this post seems pretty rock solid with a good clamp. Please show us some proof to support these claims.
I, among many others, have had numerous problems with those clamps that New Ultimate uses.
 

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DavidR1 said:
I'm putting together my race bike for next season. I will be doing a few XC races but focusing on Enduro and XXC with a 100 miler or so thrown in.

Here is my build so far. Can you find places to loose weight while not spending crazy amounts of additional money and not giving up strength (adding strength would be best).

Frame Stijl Custom
Fork Lefty XLR
Adapter Experimental Prototype
Headset Crank Bros Cobalt SL
Stem Ritchey WCS Carbon - Rotor S3X stem
Headset Spacers Extralight Derlin
Bars Ritchey Superlogic 10D - 3T Xida LTD
Grips ESI Chunky - ESI Racer's Edge
Front Brake Formula R1 - Formula sintered brake pads + Ergal M6x20mm caliper bolts
Rear Brake Formula R1 - Formula sintered brake pads + Ergal M6x20mm caliper bolts
Brake Rotor F R1 160 - Hope Race x2 160mm floating
Brake Rotor R R1 160 - Hope Race x2 160mm floating
Front Derailleur Shimano XTR -
Rear Derailleur Shimano XTR SGS - GS (medium cage) + AFCbike derlin pulley's 10t or 11t + KCNC hollow alloy pulley bolts
Shifters Shimano XTR
Cassette Shimano XTR 11-36 - SRAM XX 11-36 + PRC or Extralite lockring
Chain Shimano XTR - 2011 Dura Ace CN-7900
Crankset Shimano XTR
Chainrings Included in crank
Bottom Bracket Shimano XTR
Pedals Crank Bros Eggbeater 3
Wheelset Stans Crest/ DT Revo/ ZTR rear Cannondale SL Front
Tires F/ ??: R/ ?? - Rocket Ron PSC SnakeSkin 26x2.25 + 1 scoop of Slime Pro
Skewers Cannondale front/ Rear ZTR - Control Tech Race Ti
Saddle Fizik Gobi XM
Seatpost Crank Bros Cobalt 11 - Syntace P6 full carbon or WCS Zero setback + th M6x55mm Ti bolt
Seat Binder Thomson -
Bottle Cages King Steel - King Titanium or Cateye Plastic
Derailleur Cables XTR - Gore Ride-On Fully Sealed Pro (4mm)

Still haven't decided on my tires yet.
:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The Rotor stem is a good idea. Somehow I had completely forgotten about them.

Looked at the 3T bars. I like the longer bars (620mm) with a nice sweep (10*). 3T doesn't have exactly what I want here.

I didn't realize the spacing of the XTR and XX lines were the same. I will switch to their cassette on the build, save me almost 70g.

What is the weight of the Hope X2 rotor? Is it less then the R1 rotor? Also, why the sintered pads vs the organic pads that come with the R1's?

After I get the bike built up I plan to do some bolt and pulley upgrades. I want to get it broken in and adjusted first.

This will be a 29er as well. Does anybody know how the size of the Rocket Ron's compare with the Racing Ralph? I would like something thinner. What about the sidewall. I need a decent sidewall as the courses have some pretty nasty rock gardens that shredded my Maxxis Aspen this season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
bikerboyj17 said:
Is the XLR the lightest lefty? If not, then I would go with the lightest lefty you can find and get it tuned by the people at +88 (or 88+, cant remember the name). Sounds like a sweet build.
XLR is their current top of the line. It has a lockout which could be taken off to save a bit of weight. This will be an endurance race bike so the lockout would be needed for those long hauls on fire road or pavement that seem to be necessary on the 100 milers.
 

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Go with a Thomson Masterpice seatpost for durability, they are very light and bullet proof. You can tune it with titanium hardware to save a few more grams. Also, cut it down to it's minimum safe insert legnth to save even more grams.

You can get rid of the spacers under your stem and cut your steerer tube to save some grams. If that drops your stem too far, buy a lighter stem with a taller angle to raise it back up.

SB8s have fabulous sidewalls.

Chain: KMC SL10X. I use to use XTR chains but they stretched after a while and are a little heavier. My KMC chain has not stretched one micron over the past several months!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ambassadorhawg said:
Go with a Thomson Masterpice seatpost for durability, they are very light and bullet proof. You can tune it with titanium hardware to save a few more grams. Also, cut it down to it's minimum safe insert legnth to save even more grams.

You can get rid of the spacers under your stem and cut your steerer tube to save some grams. If that drops your stem too far, buy a lighter stem with a taller angle to raise it back up.

SB8s have fabulous sidewalls.

Chain: KMC SL10X. I use to use XTR chains but they stretched after a while and are a little heavier. My KMC chain has not stretched one micron over the past several months!
I'm actually trying to get away from the Masterpiece. Good post for sure, but there is no doubt you can feel the stiffness of the aluminum when compared to a carbon post.

I don't think I will need spacers, just threw them in just in case. The frame is custom so we set it up to not need spacers.

Both the SB8 and Ikon are on my short list for tires. I have about 3 others that look promising as well.
 

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3T does have their new handlebar the "Extendo" which is a 740mm wide, 12 degree sweep bar. It is a little weird in that the sweep is set 3mm behind the centerline of the clamping area. I just received my Extendo LTD this week. At full length(740mm) it weighed 186grams, and cut down to 670mm weighed 172grams. Pretty darn good for a bar with that much sweep and width.

I can take pics as well if you wish. I have it bolted in a stem so you can get an idea of how the eccentricity is positioned.
 

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TI bolts ...

FD40107-10 : DH/R1/RX Aluminum Backed Organic Pads

* Set of aluminum-backed organic (semi-metallic) pads - The One/Mega/R1/RX Only
* Saves 13 grams over stock DH/R1 pads
* Includes: 2 brake pads; 1 pad spring
* Compatible with: The One, Mega, R1

http://get.perigeum.com/DH-R1-Aluminum-Backed-Organic-Pads?sc=8&category=2341

Look for a Ti spindle for the egg beaters
http://shop.titaniumspindles.com/EX...k-Brothers-Egg-Beater-Ward-CB-EB-XSHRT-Ti.htm
I am sure you can find a Carbon seat post that will work for you
 

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ambassadorhawg said:
Go with a Thomson Masterpice seatpost for durability, they are very light and bullet proof. You can tune it with titanium hardware to save a few more grams. Also, cut it down to it's minimum safe insert legnth to save even more grams.

You can get rid of the spacers under your stem and cut your steerer tube to save some grams. If that drops your stem too far, buy a lighter stem with a taller angle to raise it back up.

SB8s have fabulous sidewalls.

Chain: KMC SL10X. I use to use XTR chains but they stretched after a while and are a little heavier. My KMC chain has not stretched one micron over the past several months!
I have notice that the KMC X10 SL does not strech as easily too. Very good chain IMO.
I am using a masterpiece post right now on my carbon hardtail and you definitly can feel the stiffness in the post. Love the post but maybe it is better suited to a full suser.
 

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DavidR1 said:
The Rotor stem is a good idea. Somehow I had completely forgotten about them.

Looked at the 3T bars. I like the longer bars (620mm) with a nice sweep (10*). 3T doesn't have exactly what I want here.

I didn't realize the spacing of the XTR and XX lines were the same. I will switch to their cassette on the build, save me almost 70g.

What is the weight of the Hope X2 rotor? Is it less then the R1 rotor? Also, why the sintered pads vs the organic pads that come with the R1's?

After I get the bike built up I plan to do some bolt and pulley upgrades. I want to get it broken in and adjusted first.

This will be a 29er as well. Does anybody know how the size of the Rocket Ron's compare with the Racing Ralph? I would like something thinner. What about the sidewall. I need a decent sidewall as the courses have some pretty nasty rock gardens that shredded my Maxxis Aspen this season.
2011 Racing Ralph PSC SnakeSkin 29x2.25 might be a good tire ...depending on conditions

how about a Syntace Durafllite 0S 630mm x 31.8 bar?

see them here: https://www.bike-components.de/products/info/p16446_Duraflite-Carbon-OS-Flat-Lenker-.html

also Syntace P6 full carbon seatpost: https://www.bike-components.de/products/info/p24976_P6-Full-Carbon-Sattelstuetze-Modell-2011-.html



2 Hope X2 160mm rotors were 79g & 80g vs. Formula 160mm which were 86g & 87g



22g Formula sintered pads have much better stopping power with steel rotors - wouldn't want to start a 100 mile endurance race with Formula alloy backed organic brake pads front & rear - 9g organic pads would probably be okay on the rear caliper though to save a few grams :)

best
 
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