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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm completely new to all this info. I've been reading a lot on here, but I am not really finding the answers I need. First off, I need to buy new wheels for myself. I have found some reputable brands, but its still vague as to what I should look for. Also, all the sizes and what not are confusing as far as flange, skewer, and also eyelets or not?

The type of riding I plan to do is trail and road. I hit jumps in the trails, sometimes land sideways. But I'm not too much into drop-offs right now. The jumps are usually maybe 2 feet, tops. I go through roots and rocks often. I ride somewhat fast.

I have a 2013 Scott Scale 970. Within the first day of trail riding, within 10 minutes I bent the rear rim on this bike. I brought it to the shop and had it readjusted (trued?). Then, went out again on some trail riding, and bent the hell out of it to the point it wouldnt rotate. I kicked it back into place enough so that I could ride it back. The shop is now giving me a free upgrade to a Mavic (not sure on which one). But it was recommended that if I stay on a 29", that I get better rims. I like the bike, and I like the hardtail. He offered me a demo bike to use that was FS, but I didnt want to spend the extra money, nor did I really care for the FS. I already had one, and I like the HT, better.

So as I said, Im looking for opinions, and also help with all the sizing specs which would fit my bike. Or at least know what all these sizes mean?

i.e. "10x135 and 12x142 thru-axle rears"?
ideal rim depth?
spoke patterns?
double butted?

Most of the results in google I get are specs for rims rather than definition and explanation. I have no problem reading literature if I could find it.

What I bent to hell was the Syncros XC-49 32-hole wheels.
 

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moefosho answered all your question


Stiffness of a 12 mm thru-axle, but with a quick release's wheel self centering feature

12 mm is the axle diameter, 142 mm refers to overall shoulder to shoulder width of hub (end cap to end cap)

Cassette and disc rotor are in the exact same relation to the hub's centerline as a standard 135 mm QR hub
 

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Vassago Bandersnatch, Motobecane HAL Comp 27.5+
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the responses! I am going to read up on all the material mentioned. I definitely like to learn about what I am using. The bike shop slapped a Mavic A-317 on the back for now. Although, after some quick research, I find that "A" stands for asphalt. Also, it's not really recommended for trail use? One of the guys at the shop rides the same trails I do, and he says he uses the same rims/wheels. Between what these guys at the shop are telling me, and what I've been reading on here. I'm learning that I may not want to trust these folks too much. They were having a debate over centerlock and 6 bolt brakes. One favored centerlock, which I believe is shimano. the other liked 6-bolt. After they did a brief explanation of the two, I really didn't understand why one would be favored over the other if all that matter is how it is mounted.

So many options out there, and so little that I know.
 

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mtbpete
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You did not mention our riding weight? This will make a big difference on the correct wheel choice. It's possible that the stock wheels were made with strong enough components, but that they were just poorly built the failure was compounded by your riding style.

Some factory wheels are pretty good for the average rider, but it's hard to beat a custom wheel that's hand built and made for you.
 
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