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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2001 22" iDrive 6.0 and have fallen in love with it! The only problem (besides being a bit on the heavy side) is the low quality parts on the frame, so I'm replacing everything. I'm aiming at as much carbon fiber as possible to reduce weight & already replaced the seat post, handlebar, stem, and bar ends with carbon fiber. The Suntour SR forks have been replaced with Fox Forx Terra Logic F100X and a Fox Float RP23 air shocks.
Here are three main problems:
1) The crankset is Suntour MD-252 square taper and I'd like to upgrade to one of the newer styles. I'm told my BB shell is 68/73, but can someone help with other specifics like spindle length and chain line. What has worked well for other riders?
2) My gearing is only 3-by-7 and I'd like to move up to 9 (or, even 10) speed cassette. I realize I'll need to replace the shifters and everything, but I'm not skilled enough to comfortably choose parts. I'll be using Mavic Crossmax 26" wheels, if the helps. I've heared good things about SRAM, but I'll go with the recommendations from this forum.
3) I want the chain line to match up, so can I get recommendations as to which derailleurs (front & rear) to use. I'm still learning about chainline, so it might have plenty to do with problem #1 above.
I'll share photos as soon as I get these three finished. Thank you for answering my first post! Good to be on-board!!:thumbsup:
 

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The current better quality crankset designs are integrated. This means that the spindle is attached to the right crankarm, and the bearing cups are outboard of the BB shell (similar to a traditional threadless headset) The cups screw into the shell, and the spindle goes through the cups to the other side of the Shell, and the left crankarm is then attached to it.

Chainline is adjustable with the 2.5mm cup spacers that are included in the integrated crankset. There's a bit more adjustability with a 68mm Shell. Some cranksets, don't allow any adjustability with a 73mm shell. Integrated cranksets offer limited adjustability compared to traditional spindle lengths, and chainline is usually 50mm to 47.5mm. Most if not all current components are designed for the 50mm std, so I recommend getting a drivetrain group like this at pricepoint. It's a decent deal, and you shouldn't have any issues, although frames do vary, so there's no guarantee. If your shell is 68mm your chance of having a problem is less.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/19...-Kits/SRAM-X-7-Drive-Train-Build-Kit-2009.htm

Are your crossmax wheels new? If so, you're OK. If they're a 7 speed rear you may need a different rear wheel. You may be lucky though. If there's a spacer behind the 7 spd cassette on the rear hub, it's probably 9 spd compatible.

I don't have any experience with 10 spd setups yet, so I can't help you there, but I'll answer any other questions I can. Good luck
 

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The only 10 speed setup in mountain biking is the Sram XX. Unless you have deep pockets stick to a 9 speed. Sram XX is supposedly non compatible with 9 speed cranks but there are some out there running that setup. I've ran a shimano drivetrain all my life but there is nothing wrong with Sram x9 or x0. X0 is as good as shimano XTR. If your budget is tight Shimano SLX is a great group to have. I prefer XT on my bikes. Go Hydro disc brakes and tubeless if you have the money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
To Chanorama:

Yes- I read in one of the other foruim responses that my bike uses the 50mm chainline. So, that is were I'll aim. I'm a bit confused about the 68/73 standard though. Does that mean when I order a integrated crankset, that I can choose either a 68mm or a 73mm set and will have to use spacers if I use 68mm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mavic Crossmax

The wheels are 2008/2009, so I suppose I'll go with SRAM 0X or 09 & be happy with 9-spd. I really don't want to skimp on this bike, but don't want to go over-board (to much) either. I'll definatly go with hydro brakes & am leaning toward the Hayes Stroker Trail 160mm set from Jenson.
 

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An integrated Crank/BB is designed to work with both BB shell widths (68 and 73). There aren't different types.

The instructions that come with the crankset will tell you where to put the spacers. Cranksets vary, so spacer placement varies. For example I have a Truvativ Stylo Integrated on one bike and a Truvativ Firex integrated on another. On the Stylo the instructions say no spacer for a 73mm Shell, but the Firex says one spacer. The same crank may sometimes vary from year to year.

IMO, It's much better to have a 68mm shell with an integrated crankset. It gives a bit more adjustability, and can work with a wider range of components. Like I said before, there's no guarantee. Sometimes it should work, but doesn't. Chainline can be a finicky proposition especially with older frames and newer components.

I'm not trying to scare you, just trying to prepare you. Most likely you won't have any problems with a matched driveline. The X9 driveline group is also available at pricepoint
 

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Quick 1,

I just re-read your posts, and I just want to make sure you understand that you can't choose a 68mm or 73mm BB shell. Your frame is manufactured with either a 68mm or 73mm wide BB Shell.

The Shell is the threaded tube that the BB screws into. It's measured from the left side of the bike to the right side of the bike (or vice versa.) Most newer MTN frames are built with a 68mm shell. Older MTN frames and probably very few newer ones are built with a 73mm shell. Downhill bikes are another story, and may have 83mm shells.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Chanorama

Thank you for clearing that up for me. It's nice to know what the hell it all means. I'm actaully pretty suprised at how inexpensive the Pricewline driveline group costs. I was expecting much more. I'll check out the X9 group too. Thank you
 
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