[IonicRipper]

The pads of my brakes are way too close together at a point where inserting the disc in between is almost impossible... its like if the brake lever was always pulled. Is there a way to adjust them so the pads are more spaced?

 

[snaky69]

I think this guide on the hayes website has pretty much all the info you might need. Basically you need to push the pistons back into their bores. If I remember right, the instructions are in there.

http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/45-14550DEnglishForWeb.pdf

 

[mtnbiker72]

In the future, either take extra precautions to not squeeze your brake lever without the wheel (and thus rotor) installed...or stop by your local LBS and pick up a couple "chips" to put into your caliper when your wheel(s) are not installed.

 

[InvictaS1]

you can just use a screwdriver that has a wide flat head, insert between the pads and gently press the pads back into the bores.

 

[IonicRipper]

Im not stupid, mtnbiker, but my sister is. She came in my room and asked why i removed the wheels off my bike then she pulled the brake lever. Ok i fixed the problem, i removed the bleed screw and pushed back the pads. But now i got a slight leak from the bleed screw. EDIT: Never mind, it stopped, probably just a little oil remaining behind the screw.

 

[mtnbiker72]

I didn't say you were stupid, its a common mistake made by beginners...and since this is a beginners forum, the assumption made is that your a beginner when it comes to hydraulic brakes.

Now, why did you remove the bleed screw? There is no reason you would have needed to do this. The master cylinder can more than compensate for the fluid being pushed back into it. Did you completely remove the screw? Because its a bleed screw, you only need to loosen it to bleed. Besides, bleeding off fluid should be done at the lever, not the caliper (caliper is where you push fluid into the system). Hopefully you haven't introduced air into the system, but its possible. I've worked on and owned Hayes brakes for 6 years I've never needed to open the bleed screw to push the pads back. If the screw is tight and it still is leaking...my suggestion is to head to your LBS and have a qualified mechanic work on your brakes

PS-hopefully you have cleaned up all the brake fluid from your bike with Isopropyl alcohol AND you made sure you didn't get any on your pads...otherwise your paint will be removed from your frame and your pads will be contaminated and need replacing.

 

[Becane73]

I agree. Use a wide flat head screw driver and push the pistons back in.

 

[classiccanadianblizzard]

Throw them in the garbage!! I had nothing but problems with mine...so I got avid juciy 5 and love them!

 

[akashra]

I have a set of Nines on my current one, and I'll admit they're a little hard to get the wheel back on, but nothing that would cost you mode than about 30 seconds. They've designed the calipers well enough that you can easily get a screwdriver in to spread the pads.

The biggest problem I have with the Nines is that after re-attaching the wheel, they often scrape a lot - it's very hard to get the wheel aligned and centered correctly.

 

[mrpercussive]

happened to me before... take 2 CD and put it in the caliper and leave it over night... that should leave it wide enough to adjust with filler gauges after that...

 

[Psycho Mike]

I'm the opposite. I've had nothing but good luck with my 9's. All the Avids I've seen make a horrible racket.

Personally, I think it has more to do with the rider / shop and how the brakes are set up, maintained and adjusted as to whether any brake works like "garbage" or not.

 

[classiccanadianblizzard]

well psycho mike i must be the worst rider around then with the worst LBS in history. I had problems with the rear brake during the first ride...one piston would not retract...so it rubbed all the time.(read..brakes were on ALL the time) Lbs fixed that; then re-built caliper about everyother month to fix the same problem over and over and over again!!! Hayes said nothing about replacing under warranty...so i gave my money to some one who wants it..(read AVID). I have had no problems AT ALL not even the typical noises people talk about..by the way i ride my bike to work in the summer and hit the trails when I'm not so i put 100+ MILES a WEEK on my ride. during the summer ...i slow it down to about 60+ MILES every week in the winter. This means i do ALOT of maintenance on my bike. So i guess i should say sorry to IONICRIPPER for giving him my opinion because i just dont know what i am talking about!!!

 

[mtnbiker72]

2 sets of Nines, only one problem

I've had two sets of Hayes Nine brakes and have only had one problem with them. On my 2003 set, the right (rear brake) lever would lock up and not allow me to apply the brakes. I called Hayes and they sent me a new push-rod kit (they also offered me the option of sending them to Hayes and they would do the work and next day ship them back to me). I installed the new push-rod and bushing and they never failed again. They have otherwise been very reliable with regular routine maintenance. At least 50% of hydro brake issues I saw as a mechanic was from lack of maintenance (they do need to be cleaned somewhat regularly...not left packed full of mud. They should also have the fluid replaced annually). As a mechanic, Maguras where by far the most unreliable. The first year XTR's were pretty bad too (lots of sticking piston issues). I've never had any experience with Avid hydros (only mechanicals) so I have no idea of their quality, though if they're like their mechanicals, I would assume they're pretty good.

 

[bdee]

Throw them in the garbage!! I had nothing but problems with mine...so I got avid juciy 5 and love them!

the hfx 9's came stock on my 03 enduro and i never felt like they performed like they were suppose to, i eventually picked up a pair of avid juicy 5's and although i experienced the "turkey warble" on my first ride out, they really outperformed the hayes hfx 9's in braking performance. i could never get rid of the never ending rotor rub/chime with the hayes hfx 9's. it got to the point of where i was having to adjust them before every ride. they never really grabbed like they were suppose to, i'd clean the rotors with alcohol, lightly sand the pads, tried the EBC red pads and still didnt have that much success.

anyhow, i feel your pain of haggling with the 9's. :madman:

 

[Psycho Mike]

My personal feeling is that whatever brake you like, take the time to set them up properly (including bleeding, truing rotors, cleaning the pads and bedding the works in) and keep on top of your maintenance. It pays big dividends.

In my case, I've only had to put up with the warble once (pads glazed from cooking when I was running a 6" front rotor) and rub once (hadn't trued the 8" rotor I replaced the 6" with). Other than that, I take pride in the fact that my brakes work as intended and without rub or noise. I'm quite confident I would do the same with any brakes I run...and that anyone else should be able to do the same.