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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed my needle bearing kit for my '11 5 Spot. I followed the directions completely and there seemed to be no problems. I ended up installing the + tolerance race but still have some play in the shock eyelet that I can feel when I lift that rear end of the bike. I'm not comfortable running the setup with play like that. Just cycling the suspension at rest does seem to result in less stiction and freer movement but I really don't want there to be slop in such an actively moving pivot location.

How has the installation gone for you guys that have put them on your Spots? Has anyone else had play/slop in there fit? I'd really appreciate any feedback on this subject. I'm contemplating removing them and going back to the stock DU bushings for peace of mind.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No play at all???

Man, that's great for you but what a bummer for me. I can distinctly feel the slack in the shock eyelet when I lift the rear end and then then 'catch' when it stops moving. When I reach down and feel the eyelet while doing this I can feel it moving. I went back and tried in the (-) tolerance race again and it is much looser. I tried re-tightening the shock bolts several times making sure to depress the suspension every time and still no improvement.

Guess I'm just unlucky.

So no one else has had this problem or has any possible solutions?
 

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I used the enduro needle bearings on my RFX for over a year. They had some play in them from the beginning, but were very smooth. I have beat them up with numerous lift access riding at Winter Park, and used them almost daily on the rocky Front Range trails, and they still remained smooth. On a different note, when using the DU bushings, they would develop noticeable slop within 1 to 2 months. I have since moved on to an Avy, and the bushings in that shock are sound after 6 months of abuse, but still very smooth and totally slop-free.

I would not let the little bit of extra play bother you. Make sure that the bolts are properly torqued down. Plus, I only noticed the play when lifting the bike, but never on the trail where it counts the most.
 

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nocturnal oblivion
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This was an extensive problem that I thought RWC had fixed. There's a huge thread on it in here: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/enduro-shock-eye-needle-bearing-kit-580885-6.html

My understanding was that the inner races were out of spec and any recent sales should have no problem. I was amongst those that did have play a while back and Chris sent out a new inner race which fixed it.
Send Chris an email. He's a very helpful guy, I'm sure he'll make it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like a plan

I have been emailing Chris the last few days about a variety of questions and he has been fantastic. I haven't gotten a response back from him in regards to the play yet so we'll see what he has to say. The guy can't work all the time after all.

I guess I just don't know what to expect with this type of upgrade/change to my bike, and what is considered acceptable tolerances. I've never had any play in the shock eyelet in any of the bikes I've owned so I guess it sort of stood out when I felt it. I'm very much the type of rider that likes his bike to be quiet, smooth, and tight feeling which is part of what I like so much about Turners. I just don't want the play to allow abnormal wear to occur to the frame itself. I'm not sure if I can just go out and ride it as is, but we'll see what Chris has to say.

From the positive reviews I've read I'm very anxious to take this thing out and see how it handles with the needle bearing kit installed. Should be good once it's all figured out.

Thanks
 

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Stupid question . . .

What is recommended - Enduro needle bearing kit just on the upper shock mount, lower mount - or both?

Also, how many of you are using the Enduro tools for removing the old bushing and installing the new kit? Or - are you cooking up a getto solution?

thanks

Thinking about this mod for my soon to arrive 2011!
 

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What is recommended - Enduro needle bearing kit just on the upper shock mount, lower mount - or both?

Also, how many of you are using the Enduro tools for removing the old bushing and installing the new kit? Or - are you cooking up a getto solution?

thanks

Thinking about this mod for my soon to arrive 2011!
Upper only. It's the one that pivots a bunch. The lower pretty much just sits there nearly static.

I ghetto'd my first install with a couple of "just right" sockets and a few carpentry clamps. Worked fine, but borrowed a bearing puller kit from my LBS to do the recent ones. Highly recommend going that route. Any generic pulling/pressing kit will do the job.

IMO, it's INSANE to buy the Enduro Tools when you could buy your own entire kit for the same price (harbor freight, etc.).

Well, unless you really love cool tools. The Enduro tools look beautiful!
 

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nocturnal oblivion
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Upper only. It's the one that pivots a bunch. The lower pretty much just sits there nearly static.

I ghetto'd my first install with a couple of "just right" sockets and a few carpentry clamps. Worked fine, but borrowed a bearing puller kit from my LBS to do the recent ones. Highly recommend going that route. Any generic pulling/pressing kit will do the job.

IMO, it's INSANE to buy the Enduro Tools when you could buy your own entire kit for the same price (harbor freight, etc.).

Well, unless you really love cool tools. The Enduro tools look beautiful!
Second all that.
 

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Sorry for resurrecting and old thread.

I just put one on my top shock mount on my '10 Spot. The kit came with ++, + and - tolerance axles.

The ++ did not go in, the + went in with a bit of pressure but cannot be spun by hand, and the - went in smoothly but has a bit of play.

I just wanted to ask which one should I be using? The + or the -?

Thanks guys!
 
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