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Help with '89 Fisher AL-1

1586 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by logbiter, Apr 18, 2005

dangerDan

Discussion Starter · Apr 17, 2005

Hi folks. I'm new to this forum and would like a little advice. I have an '89 Fisher AL-1 that's been rusting in the back yard for years that I'm now thinking of fixing up. I'm not into authentic restoration. I'd just like to get this old friend back on the road (or trail). So I've started stripping it down.

It seems that getting parts might be a problem. In fact, I can't even figure out how to disassemble the Shimano BB-MT60 bottom bracket. I took the snap rings out and there appear to be sealed bearings but I can't see how to get them out. It looks like the BB shell is not threaded. Also, it's about 88 mm wide so it seems much different than the modern 73 mm shells. Will I need to have it machined and threaded to accommodate a modern BB or is it easier to find a replacement BB that's similar to the BB-MT60 that will work with snap rings?

The threaded headset looks to be in pretty good shape. If I wanted to, could I find a 1.25" threaded supension fork or are there some kind of adaptors to fit a modern 1.125" steering tube to the head tube?

The old canti brakes are shot but I think it's not too hard to find replacements for those. I'm also considering just upgrading to new brake levers/shifters and v-brakes.

Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome and thanks in advance.

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sgltrak

· #2 · Apr 18, 2005

Old Fisher

I don't know about the BB, but I picked up a shock with a 1.25" steer tube on e-Bay a couple of months back. There were 2 or 3 up for auction when I was bidding on this one. Some LBSs or manufacturers may still have crown / steer tube assemblies that could be changed out. Look for dealers that used to carry Fisher. Brake changeout should be a snap, but if you only have a noodle at the seat tube for the brake cable to travel through, you will need to run a full length housing on your brake cable when using V-brakes.

P.S. How does an AL-1 rust away in the back yard? Aren't they aluminum?

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dangerDan

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 18, 2005

sgltrak said:
P.S. How does an AL-1 rust away in the back yard? Aren't they aluminum?

sgltrak,
Thanks for the advice. Yes, the frame is aluminum. I was speaking about all of the components and using "rust" it its most general term, i.e oxidization.

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Shayne

· #4 · Apr 18, 2005 (Edited)

The BB is Press Fit

After removing the snap rings you just pound the spindle and bearings out with a hammer and block of wood. You can try just popping the seals off and re-lubing the bearings to save yourself some trouble.

And I'm pretty sure (not positive though) that the bearings are of larger diameter than a standard threaded BB so there would be no easy way to machine the shell to accept a conventional BB.

That said, press fit BB's are great. In my experience they almost never need service except for maybe an occasional re greasing. The only time you would ever need to remove it would be to change spindles.

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logbiter

· #5 · Apr 18, 2005

you're getting good info about the BB, etc.
if you're so inclined, you could go with v-brakes & new levers, but can find good deals on canti's on ebay or such, I got some lx and xtr ones for pretty cheap recently.

as to the fork/headset. You can get headset reducer cups to make it into a 1 1/8" headset, these shouldn't cost more than ~$20. I think tamer makes some, as well as a few others. Another option is a chris king 'devolution' headset, not the cheapest option, but you'll never have to get another headset.
1.25" forks come up on ebay as well, but you've got a lot more options going with 1 1/8".
As a side note, if you got with a suspension fork, you'll want to get one with < or = 80 mm of travel, as the forks of your bike's vintage didn't have more than ~60mm travel.

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